full circle

Made it back to my car at Amicalola Falls State Park yesterday, and camped overnight in the park since any driving would require a new battery. Brought the trip full circle to stay one more night in the thru-hiker shelter - same spot I spent the night the eve of starting the journey to Maine. Made a fire, cooked trail food (no, I'm not sick of it yet) and sipped a cup of hot cocoa. Heard a screech owl, and spent a cold, but satisfying night reflecting on how I've changed in the past six months. We're on the road again today, Gracie resting her head on my lap every now and then. Stopped in at the Hiawassee library to figure out where we'll be spending the night and post a quick update. Headed to Tennessee eventually. Peace and blessings!
Kel

endings and beginnings

I summitted Katahdin Sunday, October 11th. A beautiful day as we started the climb and great views from the Tablelands, but the weather turned for the worse the closer we got to the summit. Atop Katahdin we braved 50+mph wind gusts, driving sleet, and a wind chill of 0-6 degrees. Without a doubt, the coldest and most dangerous weather experienced on the hike. We spent no more than 15 minutes on the summit, getting a few photos and exchanging congratulatory hugs and high fives. There was hardly time for tears, though I did shed a few. The descent was slow and very, very cold. We were walking directly into the wind gusts and sleet for awhile. Willow and Tim (Mr. Willow) were behind me, and I kept looking back to make sure they were there - my safety net, if you will. My glasses were worthless. I covered most of my face with my pirate bandanna, and shielded my eyes from the sleet with one gloved hand, switching hands when one got too cold. By the time we got back to the Tablelands, the storm cloud had moved on, and we could see the summit, clear as day, with a brilliant blue sky all around. My friend Phil was waiting for me at Katahdin Stream Campground, and it was awesome to have an Austin connection there. I'm in Harpers Ferry, WV today, headed back to Georgia (by car, not on foot!) with a side trip planned to visit family in Tennessee. Thanks so much for all the support. I'll post more details and photos after I get home. Peace, and love, y'all!

hundred mile wilderness

I am finally at the point where it feels appropriate to say "we're almost done." With about 115 miles left to go, though, I don't know if I'm ready to be done. These past couple of weeks in Maine have been extraordinary. Physically demanding, incredibly beautiful, cold, wet, and best of all, we've been hiking with some really wonderful people. I've seen Moose and heard Loons for the first time. We forded two rivers that were almost knee deep. I don't have much else to say. We're taking a day off in Monson before heading into the "wilderness," then I drop Gracie with a dog sitter at the border of Baxter State Park (no dogs allowed in BSP) and make the rest of my journey with my fellow hikers. Thanks for all the love and support. This journey has given me so much, and I am so grateful. On to Katahdin! Photo was taken of us atop Old Blue Mountain.

Is it Maine, or ME?

Greetings from Rangeley, Maine. Apparently, Maine is a great place to find homemade pie, much to my delight. Just a few more towns/pie opportunities to go. One of the local restaurants has a dish just for dogs, and Miss Gracie will be getting her very own town treat tonight, a great followup to the Moose-shaped dog cookie I got her at the outfitter yesterday. Thanks, Michael, for helping support our town food habit! I decided to take a day off here to work through the rest of the cold symptoms (which are much improved already) and realign my hiking schedule with the post office hours in Caratunk, ME. Have been enjoying the trail A LOT these past few days. Had a wonderful night camping with Willow, who I hadn't seen since Virginia, then a great solo night at a pond-side campsite where I saw my first moose, the stars and firewood were abundant, and Gracie joined me for a quiet sunrise canoe ride around the pond. As we get closer to Katahdin, the need to enjoy each moment for what it is grows stronger, and the need to summit Katahdin diminishes. I know today that it will be great to reach the peak, because it will bring closure to the journey, but not absolutely necessary. My life won't change for having climbed that one mountain, it is just another part of the path, and while it is the northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail, it is not the end. There will be other challenges ahead, some of my choosing, some not. I've gained so much from this experience already, and one of the best things I'm experiencing at times these days is a real comfort and peace as I walk. As the old hymn goes, "...it is well, it is well, with my soul"
May all be well with you, my friends.
Peace
Kel

Another ride on the rollercoaster

Another crazy week on the AT for us. When we got to Glencliff, Journey told me it was time for her to go home. I was really sad, and already anxious about New Hampshire, so felt like I was starting all over again when Gracie and I hiked out on our own the next day. Still, I have so much respect for Journey, who continued to hike with one broken and one sprained finger, and had the courage to honor that voice that said it was time to go home. It is hard to part ways with trail family, but I know I have a friend for life and am grateful for the time we spent on the trail together.
Our second day out of Glencliff, we hiked up Little Haystack, on our way to Franconia Ridge. Over halfway up the tough, tree-lined climb, I was near tears and wondering why I was still doing this. Had I really hiked over 1800 miles for yet another tough climb, with nothing to see but rocks and trees? Full of frustration, I kept climbing, and soon, we were above treeline, and I was crying again, awestruck by the view. Yes, I walked 1800 miles for this! Franconia Ridge is now my favorite view on the AT. Gracie and I stayed on the ridgeline for awhile, and caught up to Luke and his father, Matthew on Mt. Lafayette. We ended up hiking together all the way to Pinkham Notch, then I hiked on while they went into Gorham to rest.
Before we reached Pinkham Notch, we all summitted Mt. Washington, highest peak in New Hampshire. The highlight of Mt. Washington was running into fellow Austinite Carrie Williams on the summit. Crazy coincidence and a total delight!
The next night, we did a work for stay at Carter Notch Hut, and were reunited with The Saint and Aquafresh, and a host of other fellow northbounders. Good times. Now we're resting up in Gorham, with probably three to three and a half weeks left until Katahdin. The New Hampshire rocks have been so rough that Gracie is wearing her booties, and quite happily. Everyone seems to have converged in Gorham. It's like a hiker family reunion. I still miss Journey, but have not lacked for companions on the trail. We've also been blessed with some surprise care packages. Mucho thanks to Denali & Gorgonzola's friend Dave for letting me use his laptop for an update. Internet is hard to come by here. Thanks for all the good wishes and support! Onward to Maine!
Kel & Gracie

a rare photo

I do wish I had the time to upload more photos from the trip, but tending to a dog and myself takes more effort than I anticipated. Until I get back home, here's a photo from our stay at the Green Mountain House in Manchester Center, Vermont. This was a great hostel, and exceptionally well run by former thru-hiker Jeff. He took this photo after he dropped us at the trailhead. Gracie actually rode in the cab of the pickup, not the bed. She looks pretty stout in this picture. It's amazing how muscular she's become. She'll be wearing her pack again for the Whites. She has lots of extra energy in the evenings, thanks to the cooler weather and being pack-free for such a long time. Manchester Center was the first time we hitched a ride into town. Gracie & I didn't have much luck. We stood at the road for 20-40 minutes. Checkpoint joined us about 15 minutes before it started to rain, and we soon had a ride into town. I'm not too fond of hitchhiking, even though it's easier/safer around trail towns than elsewhere. We'll have to hitch a few more times before this is all over, though. Headed to another hostel near Hanover, New Hampshire for the night. Tomorrow we begin our approach to the White Mountains.

My first convertible

pants, that is, and other things I never thought I'd do or wear on this trip...

• Get convertible pants. My first pair of hiking pants were great, but although my weight has stayed pretty consistent, I've got more leg muscle, as is typical for women hiking the trail, so they were getting a little snug in the legs and not comfortable for hiking. I picked up a pair of convertible hiking pants (zip off legs to convert to shorts) at my most recent town stop and love them!
• Eat as much ice cream as I have. MediumRare was right! Almost every town stop includes at least one serving of ice cream. Some hostels have pints of Ben & Jerry's on hand, and that's always a factor in choosing a place to stay. While waiting for the bus after grocery shopping in Dalton, Journey & I shared a pint of Ben & Jerry's in the parking lot. Awesome.
• Wear crocs. Fake ones, that is. The Smokies taught me that I needed a pair of camp shoes to give my feet a break from wet, soggy hiking shoes. I tried flip flops in Hot Springs, but my feet kept sliding out of them and it's hard to wear them with socks. So, in Damascus, I relented and got a pair of fake crocs. I've always thought crocs were kinda ugly, and considered them a gateway shoe to Birkenstocks and all they represent. But I am now a convert. Best $5 I've spent on the trail. My "crocs" are incredibly comfortable, awesome camp shoes, and the reality is, I am becoming more of a crunchy granola-eating, Birkenstock-wearing, tree-hugging hippie all the time, I might as well accept it and embrace it.
• Go this long without a haircut. I anticipated cutting my hair somewhere around the halfway point, but I haven't yet, so I might as well wait until the finish.
• Wear shorts over my long underwear. This started in the Smokies in the interest of having something warm and dry to wear in the evening around camp. Comfort and functionality trump looks.
  
• Miss family and friends as much as I have. The biggest of them all. I am so grateful for the community I am a part of, the support and love I receive, and am glad to know I have a home to return to. Not much more I can say about that.
  

There are probably more, but that's all I can think of right now. We'll be hitting New Hampshire in the next week, which means more challenging climbs and weather (as if the relentless rain has not been challenging enough), and probably less internet access at hostel/town stops. I'm getting excited about the terrain ahead, but also realizing that my initial schedule was far too ambitious. I'm officially two weeks behind that schedule, and will probably add at least 5-10 days to that over the next several weeks. And that's ok with me. Gracie is doing great and looking great. She had a good swim at Stratton Pond a few days ago. There were river otters in the pond and one swam within 50 feet of her to check her out. Thankfully Gracie was fully engaged in fetching a stick and didn't see the otter. I'm pretty tired and footsore at the end of each day, but still (mostly) motivated to hike each morning. The morning miles go by pretty fast, and the afternoon miles go slowly. The last two miles always seem to be the longest, no matter how few or many miles I've hiked each day, but some days I'm able to savor them instead of constantly wondering "are we there yet?" Until next time...

insert clever title here

Today is our four month trail-versary, and I made Journey laugh over breakfast when I said I thought it was quite fitting to spend it zero-ing in town! We hiked only three miles to get to Dalton, MA yesterday, then spent the rest of the day dealing with the bus service to get to our maildrops in Cheshire and get more food for Gracie. I'm not sure what I was thinking when I planned to get from Sheffield, MA to Manchester Center, VT in 5 days. Not gonna happen! Twenty mile days are no longer part of my vocabulary. So, yesterday's "rest day" was not so restful and we decided to stay on another day. Lots has happened since Gracie & I left New Jersey.
We stayed at Graymoor Spiritual Life center (run by a bunch of Franciscan monks), camping behind the ballfield backstop. They were having a centennial celebration/reunion weekend for their recovery program, and all the hikers were invited to share in the meals that day, which was a nice treat. Although the stop at Graymoor wasn't the peace and quiet hoped for, just being there brought a sense of calm and serenity, especially when I took Gracie for a walk through the grounds and visited to eclectic shrines and memorials.
The following day, it rained and rained, and when the thunder and lightning started, Gracie and I literally crawled under a rock for a bit to wait out the weather. After we started walking again, I spent the rest of the afternoon cursing the trail and every frustrating thing about it. Being at Graymoor helped me be aware of and feel my anger and frustration, and letting it out was really cathartic. The rain cleared up before I reached the shelter, and by the next morning, I was happy to hike again.
We camped in the backyard of a real estate office (with permission) in Kent, CT and I had a "Kent Mocha" at Kent Coffee & Chocolate before leaving town the next morning. Kent is the kind of place people go to buy things they don't need, but the people were friendly and they had some great public art. I picked out a dark chocolate ginger Buddha at the chocolate shop, and packed it out of town for a trail treat. In Salisbury, CT, we visited the nation's first public library, Journey and Blink shared their ice cream with me on the benches outside the local market, and we all cooked and ate dinner on the lawn of the town square, beneath a statue, before hiking a mile out of town to camp.
We spent a "working zero" at an organic farm near Sheffield, MA, where we spent hours weeding and mulching peppers and eggplants in exchange for a place to tent, showers, laundry, a trip to Great Barrington for shopping (they have a great co-op!), and meals that reminded me of Casa de Luz. Almost everything served was grown on the farm.
We're staying at the house of the nicest guy in Dalton. He's opened his home to hikers for 30 years! Hiking the trail is an amazing opportunity to experience firsthand the kindness and generosity of the human spirit. Trail magic is one of the things I'll remember most about this adventure.

not so fast with that rope...

New Jersey has been pretty awesome. Today is a short day, only 6 miles of hiking, so I'm taking some time to rest and update the blog at the Episcopal church hostel in Vernon. They don't allow dogs inside, so we pitched the tent outside the volunteer firehouse last night. I was blessed with a great sunset and sunrise while in town. In the mountains, the surrounding trees usually obscure the views. Maybe you remember those Pace picante sauce commercials with the cowboys who almost string up the cook because the salsa is made in New Jersey? Well, I don't know what I was expecting from the Garden State, but I have been pleasantly surprised and delighted by the generous people, tasty local peaches, and yes, even a locally made organic salsa that was better than Pace!
The hiking theme for New Jersey is "rocks, mosquitos, and bears, oh my!" The mosquitos are probably the worst part. Three nights ago, I stopped at a shelter intending to get water at the nearby spring, but got attacked by a swarm of mosquitos. I frantically removed my pack, found the deet and doused myself, then got out of there before they could carry Gracie off. The next shelter was a little more hospitable, so I pitched the tent across from the bear box. But it would not be a peaceful night. Around 9pm, the air raid siren sounded at the nearby lake. I've been hearing a lot of those lately; most communities seem to have holdover sirens from years back, and sound them once a day, so I didn't pay it much mind. Less than an hour later, we started to hear some pretty intense thunder. We spent the next couple of hours (although it seemed like longer) cowering in the tent as the most intense storm I've ever experienced passed right through camp. The rain was not that bad, but poor Gracie was shaking and panting as the lightning and thunder crashed around us. At times there was no delay between flash and crash. We stayed dry in the tent, though, and eventually got to sleep after the thunder and lightning passed.
By noon the next day, I was in need of some trail magic. I was feeling bad that Gracie had such a frightening experience with the storm, and had let myself get too hungry. Wanting to get to the mayor's house in Unionville for the night, a 20 mile hike, I hadn't taken enough breaks for water and snacks. I stopped at High Point State Park headquarters for water and lunch. When I staggered out of the visitor center, a guy asked if I was thru-hiking, and said he was grilling out back and I was invited to come eat. I joined Grey Ghost (GA-ME '93), his wife, Ann, Bullet, and West for burgers, hot dogs, sodas, salads, and chips. I left the park at 2:45, a much happier hiker, and still made it to Unionville in time for dinner and the hospitality of "the Mayor." This guy will soon be a trail legend. There were 26 hikers at his house the night Gracie & I were there. He fed all of us supper and breakfast, did our laundry, and offered us some encouragement and inspiration for the rest of our journey. Once again, the kindness and support of others relieved my frustration and worry, restored my confidence in myself and humanity, and sent me back on the trail with enthusiasm. More than ever, I *know* that I am not alone on this journey, or in life.

Feeling like a real hiker

Here's the update Kelli left on Sandra's voicemail Sunday, 7/19, around noon:

I am a couple of days from Delaware Water Gap. A couple of days ago I left Port Clinton, where the burgers are huge and the fries are enormous. And people love their yard ornaments, above-ground pools and fake deer.

I've had one evening of rain but it hasn't been terrible. I've been in the tent for six consecutive nights, so I feel like I'm turning into a real hiker. I actually passed up an opportunity for a shower yesterday.

I have passed the 90-day mark, and have fewer than 900 miles to go to Katahdin, so I feel like the countdown has begun. I had some really awesome views in Pennsylvania. My new shoes are great, and re-supply has been totally, totally awesome.

Gracie's doing great. She's making friends on the trail. She may have picked up giardia again so I'm just kind of keeping an eye on that and looking at getting her in to see a vet in the next couple of days. But she's eating great and her spirits are great, and she is totally a champion of the rocks of Pennsylvania.

craziness in Duncannon

We hit Duncannon yesterday afternoon, and immediately checked in to the Doyle Hotel, a thru-hiker tradition. It's an original Anheuser-Busch hotel, with shared hallway bathrooms, an awesomely huge clawfoot tub, and a bar/eatery downstairs. There was a big, rowdy crowd here last night. I turned in pretty early at 10pm. We were awoken at 3am when the giant siren (think air raid/tornado warning siren) went off on the roof of the firehouse, calling the VFD into action. My first thought was "what did Bam Bam do to set off the alarm" my second thought was that my friend Missy's son would love to have heard the horn. We're back to the trail this afternoon. Weather has been great, and the one thing I forgot to tell Eddie was that the berries are ripening in quantities sufficient to gather. I picked enough blueberries a few days ago to add a generous helping to my granola for second breakfast (yes, I now eat with the frequency of a hobbit). Also, Gracie likes blueberries, and can even pluck them from the bushes herself, although she prefers I pick them for her. Am planning to get a new pack sometime in the next couple of weeks, because my load has become too much for my current pack. Also need to figure out where I can get off trail to see the new Harry Potter movie. Thanks for all the support!

They are halfway there!

Hi all- this is Eddie posting for Kelli.

Kelli & Gracie are now in PA! They have officially reached the half-way point in the journey. I spoke to Kellie just a bit ago and she sounds in good spirits. She and Gracie are healthy and they are back to doing longer days, which is between 15-20 miles. She said she is carrying most of Gracie's pack currently because of the extra miles. Kelli said her foot and leg problems have cleared and she is feeling well and making good miles. She said it still gets a bit chilly at night (I was jealous and told her of our heat wave). She is still sleeping in wools at night.

Apparently it is tradition when you make it halfway through the trail to eat a half gallon of ice cream. Kelli made a valiant attempt, assisted by Gracie, but couldn't finish the whole half gallon-- at least not in the interest of not getting both of them sick! Gracie did, however, finish ALL of a half-way hot dog!

Overall, good travels, good health and fair weather. Who could ask for more than that?

hang on for the ride

The last 30 days have been a roller coaster. Starting with foot/shin problems outside of Pearisburg, then excellent rest and rejuvenation at the Evans' in Lynchburg, getting to hike with Jenny, dealing with biblical proportions of rain, bloodsucking gnats and ticks, two weekends of rest and rejuvenation with my friend Ed, more shin problems in the Shinandoahs, the onset of frustration and doubt, and the hardest reentry to trail life yet following my last days of rest at Ed's. Wednesday of this week, Ed drove me back to the trail. After a whole week without rain, the skies dumped on us as we neared the trailhead. Ed parked under an overpass so I could get out my rain jacket and readjust gear for the weather. I waited until the rain let up to head out, took some farewell photos, got Gracie suited up, then it was the moment of truth. I said goodbye and started walking with a heavy heart. I wanted to look back and wave goodbye, but knew if I did, I'd have a hard time continuing on. So I put my head down and kept walking into the rain. As soon as we started our ascent into the woods, the thunder started, and I went into worry/prayer mode. Fortunately, the rain let up by the time we got to the first shelter. I was not keen on staying there because there had been lots of reports of copperheads at the shelter. So, we trudged another 5ish miles to the next shelter. Whereupon one of the section hikers already there let me know he was not interested in sharing a shelter with a dog. The hike in had been difficult. My pack was heavy, my legs were heavy, my heart was heavy. And now, I had to make my poor baby dog sleep beneath the shelter. I think she had it better than me, since I had to share space with a puppy-hater. But, I was in no mood to pitch the tent. I had a cold dinner, fed Gracie, and went to sleep.

The next day was an improvement. We hiked 19 miles to Bears Den Hostel, got there in plenty of time for an unexpected cookout (trail magic!), and Gracie had her own doggie shelter for the night. A pint of Ben & Jerry's, introduction to speed scrabble (I totally ruled!), awesome hostel hosts and guests, and a great night's sleep did much to renew my hiking spirit. I'd spent much of the hiking day feeling kind of down, missing family and friends, and wondering if I really had it in me to keep going for another 2-3 months. Harpers Ferry kept seeming further and further away. The next day we crossed the 1000 mile mark and enjoyed a free meal at the Blackburn ATC center & hiker hostel. Gracie & I stayed in the bunkhouse, and I was up at 5:30am to start the day. When I turned on my phone to see what time it was, there was a message waiting from my mom. She had called from Knoxville, TN the night before. After breakfast and packing up, I called her, and found out they were on their way to Harpers Ferry to meet me!

I practically floated into Harpers Ferry, after finding out that my parents were gonna meet me there. So, now, here I sit, at the headquarters of the Appalachian Trail Conference. Gracie & I had our picture taken and added to the album of 2009 hikers, I've collected our resupply boxes, and have found a great restaurant for a celebratory T-bone (Gracie gets the bone!).

Speaking of bones, Gracie has been racking up the treats, lately. She had her very own buffalo burger in Linden, courtesy of Ed, got the leftover rib bones from my last in-town lunch, and I shared my breakfast pizza with her yesterday.

Next major stop is Duncannon, PA. Until then, Happy Independence Day!
Peace,
George & Gracie

rest for the weary

I have decided that walking 15-20 miles a day makes me pretty tired once I stop. Had planned to return to the trail this evening, but almost passed out this morning and decided I was too tired/dehydrated to attempt the 7ish miles I had planned. They'll still be there tomorrow. Ed has been a fabulous host, although things are a little quieter around here than last week. He keeps telling me he only throws giant parties once every three years, but I figure if I hang around long enough, there will be another one.
My last three days in the Shinandoahs were pretty outstanding. I got my shin taped correctly and was able to walk relatively ibuprofen and (mostly) pain-free. A steady diet of cheeseburgers, blackberry milkshakes, and a spring-cooled beer each evening definitely helped. My last night, a park ranger tipped me off to a nice camping spot atop Mount Marshall, and I had my best rest of the entire hike in the fabulous tarptent (thanks, Jenny!). Sleeping in the woods has taken some getting used to. During our last three days we saw 10 bears, including a mama bear with three tiny cubs. Some of them were pretty close to the trail, and I got some decent photos. Gracie seems less anxious about the bears (she didn't lose her lunch after any of the sightings!) and even held a down stay at one point.
Speaking of miss Gracie Ann, she got good reports from the vet in Waynesboro when I took her in for Lyme disease and Leptospirosis vaccines. She's only lost .4 pounds, which is great. A young man from a boy scout group we ran into in SNP commented on her muscular legs. I got a good tick collar for her from a vet in Warrenton, VA, because I'm still pulling quite a few ticks despite using topical flea/tick meds every 21 days. In addition, I got some permethrin spray to treat my clothing since we're entering deer tick territory.
I'm really glad to be feeling better, and have so much gratitude for the support I've been receiving through comments, emails, and voice mails. Not to mention the mail drops, cards, letters, and care packages. I've had my lonely, frustrating, and challenging moments on the trail, but I'm convinced that it's this community of support that keeps me going when the trail is tough. Thanks for everything!
Peace, George and Gracie

By George

Shintastic Shinandoahs
The left shin continues to be the bane of my existence. However, the gentle, well-graded terrain of the trail (probably the kindest section of the AT), great weather, and the availability of blackberry milkshakes and burgers is making life bearable. Speaking of bears, no sightings in Shinandoah for Gracie and me, but lots of other people are reporting seeing bears as they hike. Was really happy to see the Texas Train a couple of days ago. We all started from Springer on the same day, but hadn't seen each other for six weeks. They caught and passed me at the first Wayside (grill/snack bar where they serve burgers and shakes in SNP). We took some time to catch up and compare notes about who was still left on the trail, and they gave me some great advice for taping my shin that has helped (along with plenty of ibuprofen) to make walking tolerable. The Waysides in the park are like tiny oases for hikers (at least this one). I discovered today that beer singles are cheaper than sodas, so I've tucked one into my pack and plan to dunk it in a spring and have it with dinner. I think that will help the shin situation, too!

I finally got a trail name, as well. Climbing up to Dragon's Tooth in central Virginia, Snakeman asked me what my trail name was. I replied I didn't have one yet, was given a hard time for not having one yet again, so I said, maybe we should be "George and Gracie." When I ran into Snakeman the following morning, he called me George, and it's stuck. For the younger set, it's George and Gracie, as in Burns and Allen. We're fine-tuning the training for Gracie to speak when I ask her to "Say goodnight, Gracie."

Wayside Tour '09 continues...

the shins and other stuff

Unfortunately, this post makes no reference to a musical group named after the lower legs. I'm currently resting at my friend Ed's house north of the Shenandoah National Park, though I have yet to hike the park. Ed picked me up outside Waynesboro this morning so I could make it to his big Ed-a-Palooza party tomorrow. That gives me at least a couple of days to rest and recover from shin splints/tendinitis. My deep muscle bruise theory for the cause of my right shin pain was disproved yesterday when I started having the same symptoms in my left shin and knew without a doubt that I hadn't done anything to bruise it. So, I'm going with the shin splint/tendinitis explanation and resting/icing it while I can. Meanwhile, the right shin seems much better.

In other news, the Baytown Sun (the local paper from the town where my parents live) is running a story on Gracie & I in this Sunday's paper. You can see it online at www.baytownsun.com (look for the lifestyles page). We've seen five bears in Virginia, and, I'm really looking forward to hiking through Shenandoah National Park because there will be opportunities for showers at least every other day. Good times!

so many possible titles

For this post I couldn't pick just one:
Feet don't fail me now
I haven't got time for the pain
Pain is every step
Applicant for the Ministry of Funny Walks
Don't change hiking shoes (or insoles) mid-hike

Everything was great until I replaced my insoles in Pearisburg. Unfortunately for me, the new insoles made my shoes about a half size smaller, and caused achilles pain, chafing on the tops of my toes, and, once I ditched the insoles, chafing on my right ankle. At some point between Pearisburg and Daleville, I also bruised my right shin. It could've been worse. Until I discovered the bruise, I spent much hiking time wondering if I had given myself a stress fracture. Sometimes lots of time to think is not a good thing! I hobbled into Daleville and bought a new pair of shoes at the outfitter, opting for the ones that hurt my feet the least. Soaked the shin in Epsom salts and have spent the last two days eating and resting at the Evans' in Lynchburg. Their goal was to put 5-6 pounds on me, and they've done a great job trying! My best zero days yet!

Simply put, Bob & Pam totally rock! Pam went shopping and had all kinds of gluten-free foods and baking mixes at the ready, and had made a batch of gluten-free brownies for the night I arrived. The first full day I was there, I didn't leave the house, I just rested, cooked, and ate. And ate. And ate. Breakfast alone was four eggs with green chile and cheese, three sausage patties, and almost a whole batch of gluten free blueberry pancakes. Then I made peanut butter chocolate chip cookies, and ate more brownies. I almost didn't want to leave Lynchburg! Pam and Bob were excellent hosts. I arrived a worn out, burned-out hiker, and left rested, fortified, and a little fatter!

Rested, supremely well-fed, shin somewhat improved, and feet much better (though still swollen), my friend Jenny from Austin and I head out this morning to hike a few days together. I've been looking forward to the company because I've started to get pretty lonely and homesick on the trail. I've finally had a chance to post some pics. They're all lumped together in this album, and not in exact chronological order. Be prepared for lots of pictures of scenery, and my head with scenery! http://picasaweb.google.com/kelhardin/AT09

It's not nice to fool mother nature...

Or to hike when mother nature is putting on a heckuva lightning show! Back on our 31st day of this adventure, we got stuck in a thunderstorm between Roan Mtn and the Stan Murray Shelter. Just as we got to the shelter, a small bolt of lightning struck about 25 yards from the shelter. Poor Gracie got a little shock when the current traveled over the rain-soaked ground. She yelped and jumped into the shelter, then the other hikers pulled me in. We sat, cold and wet, Gracie shivering, and waited over an hour for the worst of the storm to pass. Then we jumped back into the weather and hiked/jogged another 2 miles to the next shelter, because there was no room for us at Stan Murray. It was a scary two miles, and left me concerned about whether I should be putting Gracie through all of this. The long miles, unpredictable weather, ticks, snakes, Giardia. Yet every morning, she's happy and ready to hike some more. So we keep going.
This afternoon, as we were making ready to hike out of Pearisburg, everyone was talking about a severe weather system moving into the area. I could see it in the distance, over the mountains we were headed toward. Then I saw the lightning, and decided the Holiday Motor Lodge would be a wise choice. So here we are. We've got a lot of miles to put in over the next seven days, but they'll still be there tomorrow. Tonight, it's important that we're safe from the storm. I don't mind hiking or camping in the rain, but lightning is another story.

off the grid

Back home, I'm kinda notorious for returning to the house a time or two to get something I've forgotten before I leave. On the trail, everything is so simplified and essential, that it's next to impossible to leave without something. Town is another story. When I got to Atkins and went to charge my phone, I discovered I'd left the charger at the bunkhouse in Damascus. Fortunately, the hostess, Suzanne, is mailing it ahead, and I'll retrieve when I get to Pearisburg in 4-5 days. Until then, my phone will be off unless I have an emergency. So, for the first time, I'll be completely without connection to home, or a timepiece.

Gracie & I had our best hostel experience yet at Happy Hiker Hollow in Atkins. It is hiker heaven, run by a former thru-hiker and her long distance hiking fella. All you can eat dinner and breakfast really made it fantastic. Good, home-cooked food, a real bed, laundry, and a great place to relax. We're recharged for the next section of wilderness, and hopefully, most of the rainy weather has passed for awhile. I'm keeping my fingers crossed!

Peace!
Kel & Gracie

Gracie had a tender moment with a pony foal....

This is Sandra, posting Kelli's words from her voicemail which I received at 11:30 today. 'Hope it's ok that I'm including a link to a page which has pictures of "Grayson Highlands Park", which is what I think Kelli described today: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grayson_Highlands_State_Park.

...This is Kelli. 'Sorry I missed you.

I am headed to the Partnership Shelter this afternoon, which is the only shelter on the AT that has a shower. I'm really excited about it because I haven't had a shower since Damascus, which was about 4 days ago.

Anyway...it's been raining off and on. We have fortunately been out of the weather in the evenings. We are mending. Our tummies are doing better, and we are putting in lots of good miles again, so Gracie and I are both on the mend digestively-speaking.

Grayson Highlands has been the highlight of the hike so far. It was like hiking through the Scottish Highlands - with ponies! Gracie had a tender moment with a pony foal that wanted to get a closer look at her, which was really cute.

Food is holding out great. I can tell I'm feeling better because I'm craving food again. Yeah, just lots of ups and downs on the AT. Just loving being out here: beautiful sights, sounds and smells.

Miss everybody back home. Hope you're doing well. I will be in touch soon as soon as I can. I've had, like, really, really terrible access to internet and phone while I've been out here, unfortunately. I wish I could update more frequently and be in touch more often than I can but I miss everybody. Hope you're doing well. Thanks for being willing to post this little blog update for me.

Oh, no trail name yet. Well, no official trail name yet, but I am going by "Kel" on the Trail which feels good. It's an old nickname from college days and it's kinda nice to be using it again.

Talk to you guys soon. Take care, love you.

nothing doing

Gracie and I are hopefully wrapping up our stay at the Laurel Fork Lodge today. We've been waiting on our resupply box to arrive, because it has the all-important dog food in it. Yesterday was a zero day. The hostel here is nice, with a kitchen/computer/tv room in which to relax, and nice sunny, outdoor spots for Gracie to hang out and rest. Zero days are actually a bit of a challenge for me. Once I get all my chores done, I don't know what to do with all the free time. This is also a challenge when at home. Yesterday, I watched three movies (Mary Poppins, Ice Age, and Babe) read, and took a brief nap. Along with eating a tremendous amount of food. I woke up at 8am this morning, then went promptly back to bed and slept until almost 11am. Almost unheard of for me!

Delightfully, the mail just arrived. It's like Christmas each time I open a resupply box, because I've forgotten what went into each one, and the people mailing them have been adding extra treats. I am well-stocked with dark chocolate for the "Trail to Damascus!" Thanks TUMC! I'd better make a move toward leaving, or I'll get sucked back into the zero day vortex.

Peace!
Kel & Gracie

the first 30 days

15 May marked my thirty day anniversary on the trail. Here are a few stats for the duration:
356.9 miles from Springer Mountain, GA
2 - 20 mile days
2 - zero mile days
3 blisters (all mostly healed)
1 new pair of insoles
3 states (GA, NC, TN)
4 National Forests (Cherokee, Chatahoochee, Nantahala, Pisgah)
1 National Park (Great Smoky Mountains)
1+ journal
3 coffee cups (I finally ditched the disposables and bought a lexan cup in Erwin, TN)
700+ photos
5 occurrences of Trail Magic

Things broken: spork, trekking pole
Things abandoned: shaving, deodorant
Things found: resourcefulness to patch a broken trekking pole until the replacement arrived, creativity to retrieve a rock sack stuck in a tree branch 25 feet in the air, and resilience to endure with a mostly positive attitude more consecutive days of rain and wet soggy trail than I care to count

It's not likely that I'll do similar updates at each 30 day increment, but this first 30 felt kinda big, so there it is. I am keeping a daily written journal, and while it's not possible for me to post all those entries now, when I return, I will take the time to post excerpts from each day along with pictures, either here or at trailjournals.com.

almost a month

Gracie & I are hanging out at Uncle Johnny's Nolichucky River Hostel/Outfitter for the afternoon. Doing laundry (Gracie's not so good at that), resupplying, and resting a bit before heading out again this afternoon. Showers have taken on a whole new category of delight! We've had great weather since Hot Springs, and my temporary fix to the broken hiking pole held up well, and even allowed me to pitch the tarp. Have had some great views in between the sections where all we can see is surrounding forest.

Tomorrow marks one month of trail life. I've been reflecting on what has happened in that time, milestones and such, and my next post will cover that. Until then, I get logged off the computer shortly, so know that all is well, and we're enjoying trail life. Though I'm really missing my friends today.

Peace,
Kelli & Gracie

Reunited and it feels so good!

Gracie arrived safe, sound, a little fatter, and happy to see me two days ago, and we hit the trail right off. We made it from Standing Bear Farm to Hot Springs in just two days. Gracie carried a mostly empty pack, and I carried it for her at times. Have decided to ship her pack ahead to Damascus to see how she does without it. Our first day back hiking together was idyllic after the Smokies. Beautiful warm weather, the smell of wildflowers all around, and some nice views. We hit the summit of Max Patch Bald in the late afternoon and it was awesome. It looks just like the default screen saver for Windows, but better. I was wanting to camp there, but wind gusts of 40 mph, technical difficulties with gear, and warnings of bear activity in the area made the safety in numbers afforded by staying at the next shelter irresistible. My consolation was removing my shoes and socks to hike from the summit of Max Patch back to the treeline barefoot. Pure bliss to the feet after five days of hiking in wet and soggy shoes and socks.

Speaking of technical difficulties, here is Hiker Tip #37
When trail conditions are wet, never step directly on logs. No less than an hour after I phoned the previous update to Sandra, I stepped on a log, slipped and had my third faceplant in five days. Something about having close to thirty pounds strapped to your back makes falling happen in slow motion. I came down pretty hard on my knee and heard a crack. I'd snapped one of my trekking poles in half. As with my experience stepping on nails last year, I have finally learned to be more careful where I step. Apparently, I'm a bit of a klutz. A replacement pole is on order, and I have rigged a temporary fix in the meantime. But this makes pitching the tarp a little challenging.

Standing Bear Farm was an oasis of hiker comfort after the rigors of the Smokies. They have outdoor showers, comfy bunks, a washboard/washtub/wringer for washing clothes, a kitchen for cooking (it is a novelty to eat out of a bowl, instead of the pot I cooked in), and use the honor system for payment. I seem to have a little post traumatic stress disorder from all the rain. I kept thinking it was raining when all I was hearing was the creek running through the property.

Yesterday morning was Smokies: The Sequel for Gracie & I. Driving rain, thunder and lightning, and a little hail until noon. But we survived! Getting booted off the computer at the library. Will post again when I can.

Out of optimism, I keep hanging my socks on the outside of my backpack

This is Sandra, and I'm updating Kelli's blog based on the phone message she left me yesterday (Tuesday, May 5) around 11:30 AM. It was great to hear her clear, strong, energetic voice. Her summary was so efficient & easy to follow, that I'm thinking she's on top of her game! Here are her words:

Heeyyyyyyyy, Sandra this is Kelli...
Your number came up on the "blog update roulette wheel", so i happen to have signal, and I happen to be able to get through to you, so I'll just dictate something I hope you can get an update out of..."

I am over half-way through the Smokies. It has been raining off & on the whole way. I'm on my fourth day of wet & soggy shoes & socks. I just keep puttin' the same wet pair on everyday because - um -there's no sense (Kelli chuckled here) in puttin' on a dry pair 'cuz I have one dry pair left that I'm saving to sleep in.

I am gonna to try to push a couple of 20-mile days so that I'll be out of the Smokies. So tonight will be my last night in the Smokies because Gracie and the prospect of warm, dry clothing is just on the other side.

But it's beautiful here. I've had cold wet days but no bad days.

Just prayers for dry weather and dry clothing.

Out of optimism, I keep hanging my socks on the outside of my backpack in the hopes that they'll dry during the day but that hasn't happened yet.

Miss you guys, love you all, and I will catch you on the other side of the Smokies.

She's Somewhere in the Smoky Mountain Rain...

Hola from the Fontana Village Resort, where I have had an awesome Zero Day (zero miles hiked), my first so far. I'm about to hit up the breakfast buffet (look out!) then head up into the Great Smoky Mountains, which are doing their thing out the window from where I sit. My hiking buddy Pittsburgh graciously offered to share his hotel room with me, so I had deluxe accomodations last night and this morning makes three showers in the last 36 hours. Should be enough to get me through the Smokies. This will be my longest stretch between resupply thus far (5-7 days, depending on how long I take to hike the Smokies), but I am well stocked on food thanks to David & John. Plus a few tea light candles by which to dine. I am missing my hiking partner (Gracie), but she'll be well cared for this week and get some much needed rest. Great Smoky Mountains National Park is considered a preserve, and (I think) for that reason, dogs are not allowed in the backcountry. Thus the kennel. The nice folks at Loving Care Kennels will deliver her to me at the other side of the park. I explained everything to miss Gracie before we parted.

I have eaten very well here, thanks, Eddie! They make an awesome creme brulee. Hiking makes me crave fat and sugar, apparently. Snicker bars have taken on a whole new meaning! I've decided that hiking 10-15 miles a day, up and down hills, is similar to doing a triathlon each day as far as exertion levels and caloric expenditures. I'm having a blast, enjoy being in the woods, and am grateful each day for the love and support you give, my friends. I think of each of you as I hike. I'll update again after I get through the Smokies, and may send a phone update through a friend in the meantime. Until then, the breakfast buffet is calling my name...

Update from Miss Kelli! This is Emily and I'm updating the log for the AT girl...I spoke to her Wednesday and here is the low down.

At the time she was 1/2 a day from (approaching) Fontana Dam and she was a little anxious about leaving Gracie Ann, who is boarding at the Loving Care Kennels in Pigeon Forge, Tenn. Maybe she'll sneak out and go to Dolly Wood while she's staying at the doggie hotel!

Kelli is still lovin' the food and she's taken over 300 pictures.

She's hoping it doesn't rain and she had battened down the hatches when I spoke to her.

The best news is that everyone has been really, really friendly and awesome on the trail.

Gracie has been getting a break from carrying her pack...because (and this made me laugh) she is "dog tired."

Kelli sends her best to everyone and will be catching up with us again soon!

The Town Stop

Franklin, NC is a cool and friendly little town, great choice for a town stop, though I'd opt for a local restaurant

Here's a rundown of what happens when I get to town:

1. SHOWER!
2. Laundry!
after these two, the rest can go in pretty much any order according to post office and store schedules
3. Food!
4. Resupply (food, gear repair/replacement, cooking fuel, toiletries)
5. Check in with friends and family as much as time allows
6. Soak the feet
7. Air out gear
8. Gaze in wonder at such fascinating conveniences as ready-to-drink water, no filtering required, flush toilets, running water (again), and stores with aisles and aisles of non-backpacking worthy foods.
9. Relax and enjoy sleeping in a real bed, where (hopefully) rodents aren't skittering through the rafters.

Today's town stop meant retrieving my new knife (thanks, Stephen!), a visit to the local outfitter for new insoles, a replacement tent stake, cooking fuel, and a town shirt (gotta have something to wear while the rest of the laundry launders). Had a good meal (the rotisserie chicken made me miss Julio's) and caught up as much as I could online, natch. Gracie has spent the day lounging in the motel room, much deservedly. Looking forward to a night of uninterrupted rest and a lazy Sunday morning before hitting the trail again.

100+ miles

Down, 2078 to go! Gracie and I are taking a short break in Franklin, NC to celebrate our first milestone. We did a little early celebrating/resting at Neels Gap (around mile 30) to nurse a blister, and have been trucking ever since. Seven days without a shower is tooooooo long. Won't do that again if I can help it.

This'll be a quick update because I've got to get to the outfitters to resupply before they roll up the sidewalks at 6, but I found a cool coffeehouse/winebar with a computer, and will fill you in as much as I can in the time available.

Highlights from the first 9 days:
Eve of the start: Meeting "the rifleman,"a sketchy character deposited at the AT hiker shelter at Amicalola Falls State Park at midnight by a flashlight-toting person. We were sound asleep, and Gracie went ballistic when he came in the door, thankfully, because as soon as rifleman had settled in the upper loft, he started to tell me about the rifle and machete he was carrying. I was glad I had Gracie, otherwise, I'd have been a little freaked out. This guy didn't last long on the trail, and creeped out everyone else who met him. I'll elaborate more when I get the chance.
Day 1: Summiting Springer with time and energy to spare!
Day 2: Meeting the "Texas Train," four guys who went to school together, one of whom (Matt) is from Austin and knew of me and my supply boxes through Carson. We've been leapfrogging each other ever since.
Day 3: Perservering through blister pain (thoughts of Naomi and Wildflower '08, if she could do it, so could I!) and a bear sighting in camp. Gracie slept right through it!
Day 4: First nero (nearly zero mile day), resupply box, trail magic at Neel's Gap (cheeseburgers, protein-style!), and Goose Creek Cabins
Day 5: Surviving the major rainstorm at Low Gap
Day 6: Camping atop Rocky Mountain (away from a shelter) with Geoff, and successfully throwing a bear bag (bear pinata) for the first time
Day 7: First 15 mile day, whew!
Day 8: Lazy day, lots of sightseeing (cliffs, cessna wreckage) and taking our time
Day 9: Gracie's bravery leaping onto a log bridge and her prowess pulling me up Albert Mountain.
Day 10: Trail magic sodas, snacks, and dog treats at Winding Stair Gap and the free ride to Franklin, a hot shower, and laundry! I was starting to smell like the Gorilla exhibit at the Zoo!

Unfortunately, I can't upload photos from here, but will do so when I get a chance. Next major update won't be until Hot Springs, NC, which is 170-something miles from here. Thanks so much for the phone calls and emails, they are so sustaining, keep 'em coming. We'll keep walking!

After 10 days, the list of things that don't hurt has finally gotten longer than the list of things that do. As I told my Mom, though, my heart and spirit feel great, so the physical pain is really inconsequential. We're still finding our groove and getting the hang of things, but trail life is good, so far.

on our way

My life for the next six months reduced to a 3x4 foot square.
<-----
Gracie and I are headed to Baytown this afternoon, soon after I finish this post. We'll have a quick visit with family, then hit the road for Georgia Monday morning. The plan is to start the Approach Trail to Springer Mountain, the southern terminus of the Appalachian National Scenic Trailway Wednesday morning. Just getting to this point of departure has been an incredible journey, and I owe my thanks to many people who have helped make this a reality. It feels really strange to be leaving, and it is actually hard to say goodbye. It helps to know that I am definitely returning to Austin - to my friends, family, community, home. Your love, support, and belief in me is invaluable. My deepest thanks to:
Emily - for the spreadsheet to end all spreadsheets, I would've been lost without it!
Mykel - for the dehydrator that will no doubt make me a contender for "best fed hiker" status
Krista, Ken, Eddie, Laura, Jenn, Sandra, and Emily for making incredible meals out of a mountain of dehydrated food
Sandra & Katie - for helping me nail down logistics for Gracie
Doug - for sharing your experience and enthusiasm for the trail
Tim - for planting the seed by telling me years ago that I should do it, when I asked you about your AT bumper sticker
The TUMC community - for walking this journey with me in spirit
Mom & Dad - for your generous and loving support and help with getting things squared away in Austin
The MailDrop Angels - for signing up to ship resupply provisions, you sustain me!

There are many others who have been involved in some way in making this happen, and you have my deepest gratitude. For now, Gracie and I are headed out, next time you hear from us, we'll be somewhere in North Carolina. Peace and love!

Need More Cowbell!

To alert bears to her presence, Gracie will be wearing a bell while we hike. You can get a "bear bell" at places like REI, but I figured I could find or make something that would work just as well and cost less. I found just what I needed at a hobby supply store. In their bell section, they had 3-packs of bells for less than a single bell at REI. But better than that, they had mini cowbells! Impossible to resist. Do you think it will be obvious we're from Texas?

Hill of Life

This morning, and yes, I consider 10:30am to be morning, Gracie & I set out with full packs from the Mopac/360 greenbelt access. Our goal - hike to the top of the Hill of Life and back. A 5-6 mile round trip. The weather was cool and I had about 2L of water for us. The approach to the Hill felt great. A 25+ pound pack pushes me into a forward lean, and it feels like I'm being pushed along the trail. Gracie was wanting to surge ahead, and I kept having to hold her back. Someone is a little driven and goal oriented, as well as goofy. Wonder where she gets that? About halfway up the Hill of Life, repeats sounded like a good idea. We took a water break at the top, and I had a snack break, then we went down and back up again. Two was enough for today. I rewarded Gracie with a swim in the creek, while I tested the water filter.

When do we swim?









Atop the Hill of Life!










Filtering water is such hard work!









Glad you filled that water filter before I jumped in!









Best dog and backpacking partner Ever!

backyard shakedown

In a perfect world, by now Gracie and I would have been on a number of brief overnight trips and at least one week-long hike to test everything out and develop a routine. That has not happened, and at this point, we've got over 2000 miles ahead of us with which to fine tune. I'm planning to start slow, 10+ miles per day average, while we get everything figured out and create a routine that works for us. Still, when I saw the weather report for last night, I figured it would be the perfect opportunity to test the gear for cold weather.

So I pitched the tarp in the front yard. Of course, I waited until 10:30pm to put myself at a little disadvantage, since I won't always get to pitch in ideal conditions, and I was able to test the headlamp. I'm still working on getting a good, taut pitch to the tarp. The trekking poles make this easier, and I'll have it down before too long.
Last night's pitch, shown above, was much better than the one for the party Sunday, shown below.
The sleeping bag was a great investment. It only got down to 34 last night, but Gracie and I both stayed toasty, with the exception of my feet. That's probably because the sleeping pad doesn't extend beyond my lower legs. I cut that section out for Gracie to use, but I'll remedy that on the trail by placing the backpack there. Gracie did a good job staying close to keep us both warm, and the bag was roomy enough that I could throw a section over her and we could easily use it quilt-style. If we see colder temps, and it's likely we will, I've got additional layers I can wear, and Gracie has her fleece coat, so I think we're set. If need be, a silk bag liner will add an extra 5-10 degrees comfort range to the bag, but I'm gonna wait and see if I can get by without it.

After coffee, granola, and blogging, we're off to pack everything up and hike the Hill of Life!

Gear tests to date:

• Headlamp
• Pitching the tarp at night
• Camping in the cold
• Sleeping bag
• Wool baselayer top & bottom
• Buff - balaclava style
  
• Backpacking stove

AT Info

Here's a map with the elevation profile of the AT and a couple of links if you want to find out more about this National Scenic Trailway. I'm thinking this map looks pretty daunting simply because it's so horizontally compressed. I'll let you know how that theory plays out!

Appalachian Trail Conservancy - a volunteer-based organization dedicated to the preservation and management of the natural, scenic, historic, and cultural resources associated with the Appalachian National Scenic Trail in order to provide primitive outdoor-recreation and educational opportunities for Trail visitors. This is where my research began, by requesting free information packets about hiking the trail and hiking with dogs. The graphic comes from that info packet, but I somehow don't remember seeing it before today. One-stop source for maps, guidebooks, trail memoirs, mementos, and where I purchased my AT Thru-Hiker's Companion, which will be my primary guidebook for my hike.

WhiteBlaze.net - a community of Appalachian Trail enthusiasts, named for the 2" x 6" white painted blazes that mark the AT approximately every quarter mile. A fantastic source of information for trip planning, including food, gear, resupply, lodging, and just about any question a hiker might have about getting ready to hike the AT. I used information here to develop my itinerary, research gear, and get an idea of what life on the trail might be like. WhiteBlaze led me to information and gear lists for lightweight and ultralight backpacking.

Trailplace - An AT resource website and publisher of the Thru-Hiker's Handbook, another useful guide. Trailplace also has a forum that's a good resource for info from fellow hikers. I'll be taking the first section of the Handbook on my hike. It's a good table of distances to shelters, campsites, roads, water sources, and towns, and includes elevation profiles at the bottom of each page. If I decide I don't like seeing the elevation profiles, I can always send this section home, since the same information is included in the Companion (with elevations shown numerically, instead of graphically).

TrailJournals.com - Global backpacking journals from long-distance hikers. A fun and motivating diversion.

Many thanks to my friends and family who picked up supply boxes yesterday. It was great to see you all and know that you are supporting me in many ways as I continue on this journey.

Tiki-Tiki-Tavi

This article in the NY Times brought back some memories. The year I came out, I took a trip to San Francisco to visit Ernest, my friend from the zoo who'd moved to SF with his partner. They kindly hosted me in their awesomely quirky SoMa apartment. I spent my day exploring the city, and in the evenings, accompanied them at a number of social engagements. One night, a friend of theirs was celebrating a birthday at the Tonga Room. Pure, over-the-top decadent and dated kitsch. I loved it. What can be better than gargantuan drinks with umbrellas, fruit skewers, and two-foot straws in a basement that has a tropical lagoon and a Polynesian show. I don't remember (gargantuan drinks be damned!) what the show involved. I really want to say it paid tribute to Esther Williams/Busby Berkeley, but I think that's more wishful thinking than a reflection of reality. Still, it was great fun, even if no one from our party ended up in the pool. Long live the Tonga Room!

Trail Names

Long distance hikers often have "trail names," a nickname they go by on the trail, either self-created or bestowed upon them during their hike. Trail names usually represent some character trait of, or funny thing that happened to the hiker. There's always a story behind it. I don't have a trail name yet. It seems presumptuous for me to give myself one before I've stepped foot on the trail. I have considered names that I thought would be fun or fitting trail names for myself and for Gracie, but I'm gonna wait and see what my fellow hikers come up with. I retain the right of first refusal, but I will let you know when (and if) I get one that sticks. I think the best suggestion for Gracie, courtesy of my housemate, is "Bottomless Pit."

A Journey of a Thousand Miles

Begins with a single step, and so does a journey of 2178.3 miles.

What's with the talk about hiking gear, and the Appalachian Trail? A couple of years ago I set a goal of thru-hiking the Appalachian Trail (the AT) in 2009. So, it's time to get to it. Here's some info about the how and why of it, from my perspective.

For as long as I can remember, I have wanted to do some kind of long distance outdoor adventure. Things like biking the Pacific Coast Highway, adventure races, and long distance hikes have captivated my imagination. When major life events happened in 2005/2006, I slowly began to take stock of how I'd chosen to spend my time, and realized that I had never really challenged myself to the kind of major personal goals that I often found myself daydreaming about. Sure, I'd been a committed runner since I was in my teens, and was quite happy with my professional accomplishments, but I'd never really taken on a major goal of my very own. I had been complacent and willing to let others direct the course of my life. So I started writing goals down, and actually pursuing them. The AT became part of a three year plan, and I'd never planned more than three months ahead for anything.

Honestly, I don't remember exactly when or what inspired me to add the AT to my goals, but as I started reading about it, and the experiences of people who'd hiked the AT, and other long trails, I was hooked. Now, as the trip looms ever closer (less than two weeks away by the time I post this entry) for the first time in my life, I know what Joseph Campbell was talking about when he said "follow your bliss."

"...if you do follow your bliss you put yourself on a kind of track that has been there all the while, waiting for you, and the life that you ought to be living is the one you are living. When you can see that, you begin to meet people who are in your field of bliss, and they open doors to you. I say, follow your bliss and don't be afraid, and doors will open where you didn't know they were going to be."

That has certainly been the case in preparing this trip. I have been embraced, supported, and guided by my community of friends, as well as people I have sought out, and people have appeared in my life to help me as I have researched and tested gear, considered logistics and planning, and discovered how to make this work. Each time I feel scared, overwhelmed, or doubtful, something happens to reenergize me, motivate me, and remind me that I can do this, that, for now, I am meant to do this. There's a certain sense that I've gone past the point of no return, there's no turning back, and I feel compelled to keep going. I laughingly say too many people know about and are a part of this journey for me to back out now. But deep down, I also feel a quiet, unmistakable yearning that this is something that I must do.

If the Joe Campbell quote didn't sum it up, this, from "Ten Fun Things to Do Before You Die," written by nun other than Karol Jackowski as part of a "last lecture" series at a college, says it pretty well when she talks about how it felt to be called to be a nun. I've taken the liberty to replace nun-specific language with references to my hike.

"Truth be told, all I really knew when I felt called to [hike the AT] was this surprising need, a growing impulse to follow my uninformed, naive fascination with [long distance hiking], to yield to the mysteriousness of it all, even leave family and friends for the sake of it. At the time I vaguely knew that when anything stirs us that deeply, moves us to the point of distraction, and urgently invites us to follow, we must pack up, go, and be not afraid. Never fear the less-traveled road. Respect such mysterious calls always and take them very seriously. Never minimize or regard them as foolishness. In the beginning, I blindly believed and trusted, but now I know and see for sure that such is the call of the Gods."

So, why the AT? There are several other "long trails" in the US, such as the Pacific Crest Trail, and the Continental Divide Trail. I chose the AT because, for my first solo adventure, I wanted to do something that many others had also done. I'm not quite ready to get out there with a compass and map in truly remote territory. I wanted to step into a well-traveled path, and the AT is that. There is an abundance of information available about thru-hiking the AT, and it's not that hard to find people who've done it, or some part of it. Yes, to hike the entire 2178.3 miles is a major undertaking, but it also felt like a manageable goal for me and for Gracie. In exactly two weeks, the hike will begin, but it's just another step on a journey that began long ago.

What does six months of dog food look like?

Paradise to miss Gracie Ann, who would like to let everyone know that it's a crab wonton a day, thank you very much. The only question seems to be whether to start at the bottom of the stack...

or the top...










I'm officially in overwhelm mode, and may well stay there until October. Gracie, on the other hand, is totally bored with all the prep work and ready to go take a hike!

Gracie's fortune for the day

A wonton a day keeps the doctor away.

Gracie's comment: why stop at one?

Gracie's fortune for the day

Live, think, and act for today. Tomorrow may be too late.

How fitting for a dog's fortune.

Gracie's fortune for the day

Had a gluten free Pei Wei dinner last night, to go, and when the server said he'd left out the fortune cookie because they had gluten, I said, "Thanks, but can I have one anyway, my dog likes them." He gave me extra because he likes dogs. So, here's Gracie's fortune for the day:

Everyone feels lucky for having you as a friend.

No doubt!

training hike!

Gracie had her first training hike with her new, smaller, backpack today. Since I have yet to make a final decision on a pack, she got to carry everything. For this outing, she carried a bag of lentils and a can of corn in each side of the pack, car keys, a couple of poop sacks, and a small bottle of water on one side to evenly distribute the weight. I'd been a little concerned that she was out of practice for carrying, but she totally rocked it. Even though I was unencumbered, it was still a challenge to keep her from pulling ahead of me. That's my dawg!

We went for an afternoon hike at St. Edwards park, one of my favorite short hike spots in Austin. We crossed the creek, climbed up to the top of the hill that skirts the Balcones Canyonland Preserve, then headed back down. When we crossed the creek again, I took off Gracie's pack so she could go for a brief swim, then I carried her pack the rest of the way to the car. This pack is gonna suit her just fine, and I'm less concerned about her fitness for hiking. Upcoming training will include a hike to the Hill of Life and back from Loop 360.

A potential backpack arrives this week for testing, the camera is on order, and things are starting to come together. It's a little hard to believe this thing is really going to happen. I'm thrilled and nervous both. And incredibly grateful for the outpouring of support from friends and family. I absolutely could not be doing this without them. Exciting times.

tweaking of the gear

So far, Gracie seems to have more of her gear in order than I do. I am confident that everything will come together at the right time. The sleeping bag decision will happen this week, and the backpack. Probably both by Wednesday, if not sooner. In the meantime, I ordered the next smaller size doggie backpack for Miss Gracie Ann. She is on the small end of the sizing scale for the medium, and it seemed to overwhelm her without being fully loaded. The small holds about 4-6 liters less volume, so I may have to lug more of her food/gear than I intended. As much as I like to joke about loading her up like the dog from How the Grinch Stole Christmas, carrying a pack has to be manageable for her for this to happen, if that means I carry a bit more weight, so be it. She's worth it!

Gracie's Gear

So excited to receive Gracie's new backpack in the mail today. It probably weighs as much or more than the one I will carry. It's got ample room for a week's supply of food, booties (in case the terrain is hard on her feet, or it's especially cold) a food/water bowl, treats, and possibly a tennis ball or other toy. Plus it has two water bladders. We can use these to help balance the load, and carry spare water. It's much bigger than the day pack I've used on her before, and it will take some training/practice for her to get used to carrying a full load. Here are some cute pics of her with the pack loaded down with 14 cups of food, enough for seven days.

It's really hard to get an action shot of her with the pack, but here's an attempt. The training plan is to take her out on local trails with an empty pack and gradually work up to a full load over the next few weeks. One really nice feature of this pack is the separate harness/saddlebag setup. I can remove the saddlebags and carry her load to give her a break, without removing the harness. Here's a photo of her with just the harness on.

I have the best dog in the world!

another step closer

Today I sold the motorcycle and I feel both sadness and excitement. Sad to see my first "real" bike go, but excited because it is helping fund my Appalachian Trail hike. Getting on that bike for a ride never failed to lift my mood, bring me fully present to the now (for there is no other way to ride, in my book), and bring me happiness. I had once promised a partner that I would never get a bike. When that relationship ended, I decided it was time to explore my authentic interest in motorcycling, so I saved for the cost of the motorcycle safety course as a birthday gift to myself. My Christmas gift was this machine, bought from a trusted friend.

In just over two years, I put a thoroughly enjoyable 4400 miles on it, along with a few comfort and convenience accessories. I made a couple of my own repairs, learned how to jumpstart a bike, had a few scary moments on the roads, but always felt it was one of the best things I ever did for myself. I've known for awhile that hiking the AT would mean selling the savage, because I needed the proceeds to help fund the trip, and it would be wholly impractical and not good for the bike for it to sit for up to six months. Possessions pass into and out of our lives, and are easily replaced. Without a doubt, as long as I am physically able, I know I will be a motorcycle rider. I'm keeping the riding gear, because I'm sure one of these days, at least one of my long distance trips will be by motorcycle. Riding a motorcycle is the closest thing to flying without leaving the ground, and I know I want to get another one when I return from my hike. Until then, it was money and time well spent.

I am grateful to have honored the inner voice that said I was born to ride, and grateful that this interest is enabling me to pursue other ventures. Some people really do have some internal thing going on that says "I must ride a motorcycle." You can tell it because they're the ones that always notice other motorcycles on the road, that can't help but look in the direction of the approaching exhaust rumble or engine whine, drawn by some unknowable force to the call of two-wheeled transportation. I will always be glad I answered the call. And I'm already thinking about my next bike.

The Kel-Bar

The recent recall of peanut butter and "foodlike" products containing peanut "paste," led me to the information that a product I once enjoyed, and thought to be from a small, independent producer, Larabar, was actually owned by General Mills. During the time that I gave up sugar, the Larabar was a godsend. Something that actually tasted like cherry pie, but was sweetened only by the sugar naturally occurring in dates and cherries. A way to eat chocolate without sugar, and the key lime pie was almost transcendent. I could lament that my beloved Larabar is now a sellout, but that would be a bit of a double standard, since I still eat at (and love) Chipotle, which is the *only* good thing I can think of about McDonald's. However, now I've perfected the art of good guacamole, and can survive independent of a burrito bowl. So what to do about this new information? My trust in mass produced food products is waning. What is "peanut paste" doing in products advertised as mostly raw, organic, and unprocessed? What the heck is peanut paste, anyway?

Fast forward to this evening. I'd recently bought some dates to try, and having decided I didn't like them, offered them to a coworker. Her response was "don't give them to me, make something with them." I also happened to have some unsweetened, dried cherries, and thought, maybe I could make my own 'larabar.' Tonight's experiment is a success.

I have no idea the amounts I used, but I used the following ingredients:

Raw almonds, soaked at least 24 hours
medjool dates
dried unsweetened cherries

Rinse and drain the almonds, and mince in a food processor
Pit the dates, add them to the almonds, and process
Add cherries and process some more

Test and add ingredients and process some more until you like it. It should end up in a moldable consistency, with most everything in minced or smaller pieces. Spread to 1/4 to 1 inch thickness on plastic wrap, wrap, and refrigerate. I'll try to add a picture, but don't count on it.

In yesterday's news, I made my own kick butt teriyaki-style veggie saute with garlic, onion, mushrooms, zucchini, red bell pepper, and carrot. The teriyaki included wheat-free tamari, fresh ginger, sesame oil, honey, and rice wine vinegar. Dang!

Have I mentioned cooking is my new favorite relaxation activity?
Eat well and be well!

still got it!

Work today involved painting the gallery walls. Someone provided tunes, and a John Mayer song about someone falling down a soda well got me thinking about that song I knew and loved from my church camp days, "The Ballad of Eddy Brown." Poor chap fell down a well. Hadn't thought of that in years, but after about half an hour, I had remembered all the lyrics and the tune. I'd quote it for you here, but it's a song in the oral tradition, has never been written down, and I'm not about to start. If you ask, I'll be happy to sing it for you. It is the goofiest of songs, and kept a smile on my face much of the day. So, yeah, I still got it, though *it* is apparently dorkiness. I could do worse, and have, so I'm choosing to cherish this. Look out younger cousins and nieces, you are about to learn a new song!

the new job

new things I've done at work in the past two weeks:
use a belt sander
build a pedestal (with assistance)
cut rabbets using a dado kit
put together exhibit cases with rabbeted tops, bottoms, and sides
apply a wash to a fence
use a hydraulic sander

I've only been on assignment for six days, but I am loving the work and the work environment/culture. After the stress of the past eleven months, it is absolutely priceless to work with pleasant, helpful people who like to listen to public radio all day. I am grateful.