off the grid

Back home, I'm kinda notorious for returning to the house a time or two to get something I've forgotten before I leave. On the trail, everything is so simplified and essential, that it's next to impossible to leave without something. Town is another story. When I got to Atkins and went to charge my phone, I discovered I'd left the charger at the bunkhouse in Damascus. Fortunately, the hostess, Suzanne, is mailing it ahead, and I'll retrieve when I get to Pearisburg in 4-5 days. Until then, my phone will be off unless I have an emergency. So, for the first time, I'll be completely without connection to home, or a timepiece.

Gracie & I had our best hostel experience yet at Happy Hiker Hollow in Atkins. It is hiker heaven, run by a former thru-hiker and her long distance hiking fella. All you can eat dinner and breakfast really made it fantastic. Good, home-cooked food, a real bed, laundry, and a great place to relax. We're recharged for the next section of wilderness, and hopefully, most of the rainy weather has passed for awhile. I'm keeping my fingers crossed!

Peace!
Kel & Gracie

Gracie had a tender moment with a pony foal....

This is Sandra, posting Kelli's words from her voicemail which I received at 11:30 today. 'Hope it's ok that I'm including a link to a page which has pictures of "Grayson Highlands Park", which is what I think Kelli described today: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grayson_Highlands_State_Park.

...This is Kelli. 'Sorry I missed you.

I am headed to the Partnership Shelter this afternoon, which is the only shelter on the AT that has a shower. I'm really excited about it because I haven't had a shower since Damascus, which was about 4 days ago.

Anyway...it's been raining off and on. We have fortunately been out of the weather in the evenings. We are mending. Our tummies are doing better, and we are putting in lots of good miles again, so Gracie and I are both on the mend digestively-speaking.

Grayson Highlands has been the highlight of the hike so far. It was like hiking through the Scottish Highlands - with ponies! Gracie had a tender moment with a pony foal that wanted to get a closer look at her, which was really cute.

Food is holding out great. I can tell I'm feeling better because I'm craving food again. Yeah, just lots of ups and downs on the AT. Just loving being out here: beautiful sights, sounds and smells.

Miss everybody back home. Hope you're doing well. I will be in touch soon as soon as I can. I've had, like, really, really terrible access to internet and phone while I've been out here, unfortunately. I wish I could update more frequently and be in touch more often than I can but I miss everybody. Hope you're doing well. Thanks for being willing to post this little blog update for me.

Oh, no trail name yet. Well, no official trail name yet, but I am going by "Kel" on the Trail which feels good. It's an old nickname from college days and it's kinda nice to be using it again.

Talk to you guys soon. Take care, love you.

nothing doing

Gracie and I are hopefully wrapping up our stay at the Laurel Fork Lodge today. We've been waiting on our resupply box to arrive, because it has the all-important dog food in it. Yesterday was a zero day. The hostel here is nice, with a kitchen/computer/tv room in which to relax, and nice sunny, outdoor spots for Gracie to hang out and rest. Zero days are actually a bit of a challenge for me. Once I get all my chores done, I don't know what to do with all the free time. This is also a challenge when at home. Yesterday, I watched three movies (Mary Poppins, Ice Age, and Babe) read, and took a brief nap. Along with eating a tremendous amount of food. I woke up at 8am this morning, then went promptly back to bed and slept until almost 11am. Almost unheard of for me!

Delightfully, the mail just arrived. It's like Christmas each time I open a resupply box, because I've forgotten what went into each one, and the people mailing them have been adding extra treats. I am well-stocked with dark chocolate for the "Trail to Damascus!" Thanks TUMC! I'd better make a move toward leaving, or I'll get sucked back into the zero day vortex.

Peace!
Kel & Gracie

the first 30 days

15 May marked my thirty day anniversary on the trail. Here are a few stats for the duration:
356.9 miles from Springer Mountain, GA
2 - 20 mile days
2 - zero mile days
3 blisters (all mostly healed)
1 new pair of insoles
3 states (GA, NC, TN)
4 National Forests (Cherokee, Chatahoochee, Nantahala, Pisgah)
1 National Park (Great Smoky Mountains)
1+ journal
3 coffee cups (I finally ditched the disposables and bought a lexan cup in Erwin, TN)
700+ photos
5 occurrences of Trail Magic

Things broken: spork, trekking pole
Things abandoned: shaving, deodorant
Things found: resourcefulness to patch a broken trekking pole until the replacement arrived, creativity to retrieve a rock sack stuck in a tree branch 25 feet in the air, and resilience to endure with a mostly positive attitude more consecutive days of rain and wet soggy trail than I care to count

It's not likely that I'll do similar updates at each 30 day increment, but this first 30 felt kinda big, so there it is. I am keeping a daily written journal, and while it's not possible for me to post all those entries now, when I return, I will take the time to post excerpts from each day along with pictures, either here or at trailjournals.com.

almost a month

Gracie & I are hanging out at Uncle Johnny's Nolichucky River Hostel/Outfitter for the afternoon. Doing laundry (Gracie's not so good at that), resupplying, and resting a bit before heading out again this afternoon. Showers have taken on a whole new category of delight! We've had great weather since Hot Springs, and my temporary fix to the broken hiking pole held up well, and even allowed me to pitch the tarp. Have had some great views in between the sections where all we can see is surrounding forest.

Tomorrow marks one month of trail life. I've been reflecting on what has happened in that time, milestones and such, and my next post will cover that. Until then, I get logged off the computer shortly, so know that all is well, and we're enjoying trail life. Though I'm really missing my friends today.

Peace,
Kelli & Gracie

Reunited and it feels so good!

Gracie arrived safe, sound, a little fatter, and happy to see me two days ago, and we hit the trail right off. We made it from Standing Bear Farm to Hot Springs in just two days. Gracie carried a mostly empty pack, and I carried it for her at times. Have decided to ship her pack ahead to Damascus to see how she does without it. Our first day back hiking together was idyllic after the Smokies. Beautiful warm weather, the smell of wildflowers all around, and some nice views. We hit the summit of Max Patch Bald in the late afternoon and it was awesome. It looks just like the default screen saver for Windows, but better. I was wanting to camp there, but wind gusts of 40 mph, technical difficulties with gear, and warnings of bear activity in the area made the safety in numbers afforded by staying at the next shelter irresistible. My consolation was removing my shoes and socks to hike from the summit of Max Patch back to the treeline barefoot. Pure bliss to the feet after five days of hiking in wet and soggy shoes and socks.

Speaking of technical difficulties, here is Hiker Tip #37
When trail conditions are wet, never step directly on logs. No less than an hour after I phoned the previous update to Sandra, I stepped on a log, slipped and had my third faceplant in five days. Something about having close to thirty pounds strapped to your back makes falling happen in slow motion. I came down pretty hard on my knee and heard a crack. I'd snapped one of my trekking poles in half. As with my experience stepping on nails last year, I have finally learned to be more careful where I step. Apparently, I'm a bit of a klutz. A replacement pole is on order, and I have rigged a temporary fix in the meantime. But this makes pitching the tarp a little challenging.

Standing Bear Farm was an oasis of hiker comfort after the rigors of the Smokies. They have outdoor showers, comfy bunks, a washboard/washtub/wringer for washing clothes, a kitchen for cooking (it is a novelty to eat out of a bowl, instead of the pot I cooked in), and use the honor system for payment. I seem to have a little post traumatic stress disorder from all the rain. I kept thinking it was raining when all I was hearing was the creek running through the property.

Yesterday morning was Smokies: The Sequel for Gracie & I. Driving rain, thunder and lightning, and a little hail until noon. But we survived! Getting booted off the computer at the library. Will post again when I can.

Out of optimism, I keep hanging my socks on the outside of my backpack

This is Sandra, and I'm updating Kelli's blog based on the phone message she left me yesterday (Tuesday, May 5) around 11:30 AM. It was great to hear her clear, strong, energetic voice. Her summary was so efficient & easy to follow, that I'm thinking she's on top of her game! Here are her words:

Heeyyyyyyyy, Sandra this is Kelli...
Your number came up on the "blog update roulette wheel", so i happen to have signal, and I happen to be able to get through to you, so I'll just dictate something I hope you can get an update out of..."

I am over half-way through the Smokies. It has been raining off & on the whole way. I'm on my fourth day of wet & soggy shoes & socks. I just keep puttin' the same wet pair on everyday because - um -there's no sense (Kelli chuckled here) in puttin' on a dry pair 'cuz I have one dry pair left that I'm saving to sleep in.

I am gonna to try to push a couple of 20-mile days so that I'll be out of the Smokies. So tonight will be my last night in the Smokies because Gracie and the prospect of warm, dry clothing is just on the other side.

But it's beautiful here. I've had cold wet days but no bad days.

Just prayers for dry weather and dry clothing.

Out of optimism, I keep hanging my socks on the outside of my backpack in the hopes that they'll dry during the day but that hasn't happened yet.

Miss you guys, love you all, and I will catch you on the other side of the Smokies.

She's Somewhere in the Smoky Mountain Rain...

Hola from the Fontana Village Resort, where I have had an awesome Zero Day (zero miles hiked), my first so far. I'm about to hit up the breakfast buffet (look out!) then head up into the Great Smoky Mountains, which are doing their thing out the window from where I sit. My hiking buddy Pittsburgh graciously offered to share his hotel room with me, so I had deluxe accomodations last night and this morning makes three showers in the last 36 hours. Should be enough to get me through the Smokies. This will be my longest stretch between resupply thus far (5-7 days, depending on how long I take to hike the Smokies), but I am well stocked on food thanks to David & John. Plus a few tea light candles by which to dine. I am missing my hiking partner (Gracie), but she'll be well cared for this week and get some much needed rest. Great Smoky Mountains National Park is considered a preserve, and (I think) for that reason, dogs are not allowed in the backcountry. Thus the kennel. The nice folks at Loving Care Kennels will deliver her to me at the other side of the park. I explained everything to miss Gracie before we parted.

I have eaten very well here, thanks, Eddie! They make an awesome creme brulee. Hiking makes me crave fat and sugar, apparently. Snicker bars have taken on a whole new meaning! I've decided that hiking 10-15 miles a day, up and down hills, is similar to doing a triathlon each day as far as exertion levels and caloric expenditures. I'm having a blast, enjoy being in the woods, and am grateful each day for the love and support you give, my friends. I think of each of you as I hike. I'll update again after I get through the Smokies, and may send a phone update through a friend in the meantime. Until then, the breakfast buffet is calling my name...

Update from Miss Kelli! This is Emily and I'm updating the log for the AT girl...I spoke to her Wednesday and here is the low down.

At the time she was 1/2 a day from (approaching) Fontana Dam and she was a little anxious about leaving Gracie Ann, who is boarding at the Loving Care Kennels in Pigeon Forge, Tenn. Maybe she'll sneak out and go to Dolly Wood while she's staying at the doggie hotel!

Kelli is still lovin' the food and she's taken over 300 pictures.

She's hoping it doesn't rain and she had battened down the hatches when I spoke to her.

The best news is that everyone has been really, really friendly and awesome on the trail.

Gracie has been getting a break from carrying her pack...because (and this made me laugh) she is "dog tired."

Kelli sends her best to everyone and will be catching up with us again soon!