[A year ago April 15th, I set out to hike the length of the Appalachian Trail, northbound from Georgia to Maine, with my 7 year old dog, Gracie. Almost nightly, I wrote journal entries about what I was experiencing. The demands of trail life with a dog precluded me from posting these entries during the hike. I've chosen to post excerpts to mark the anniversary of this life-altering experience. Enjoy the journey, I certainly did.]
23 April 2009 - Day 9, Mile 79.3 - Muskrat Creek Shelter -> Beech Gap Tenting Area
Slept in and took my time making breakfast and breaking camp. Rinsed some clothes in the stream and took time to hike back to Raven Cliffs to enjoy the unobstructed view and see the downed Cessna debris. Have I mentioned I've always wanted to get a pilot's license? Wanted to make Carter Gap shelter by tonight, but my noon start made that impossible. Probably could've marshalled on, but ran into Dave and Rock (section hikers) at Beech Gap and decided to camp with them. (I'd passed them the previous evening at Bly Gap). They're nice guys from Orlando, out hiking for the week (Hiawassee to Franklin). We ate dinner together sitting on downed logs, then hung bear bags. They tried to help me with mine (being gentleman, I suppose) but I had an easier time getting it done once I asked them to just let me do it myself. I really do need to lighten my food load, it's ridiculously heavy (and the bear line practically cuts into my hands as I hoist the bag).
Today I enjoyed hiking at my own pace and breaking camp at my own pace. I'd rather get going earlier and take my breaks at lunch and dinner, but today was a good experiment. Was thirsty most of the day. Water/streams are not as plentiful in North Carolina, and I didn't plan for or expect that. Will be more mindful tomorrow. Got into the 70s this afternoon and I took on Gracie's food since it was hot and water was limited. That helped her. It's starting to sprinkle now. As the sun was going down through the gap, a section of trees turned orange from the glow of the descending sun. The only real evidence of sunset other than glimpses of colored sky through the treetops. Amazing to see.
My coffee cup died (I'd carried a disposable from Georgia), so until Franklin, I'll drink from my cookpot if I need to make a beverage other than water. I'm filthy and starting to smell. I remind myself of the gorilla exhibit at the Houston Zoo.
Happy Birthday, Mom! I didn't have cell service today, but I thought of you a lot. Thought again about wanting to take care of, wanting to make it known that I'm available to take care of, my nieces and remembered a psychic reading I had several years ago mentioned something along those lines. It would be interesting to listen to those tapes again after so long. Three years, wow.
Goals for 4/24:
get on the trail by 8am
call Mom
call Amex re: bill
call re: Franklin shuttle
at least to Rock Gap shelter
Wasilik Poplar side trail
Internet/computer access in Franklin?
Highlights: sleeping in! Taking time to check out a view and the wreckage from a small plane crash. Oh yeah, I crossed my first state line yesterday and am now in North Carolina! The orange trees.
Food;
B - gluten-free cereal mix (too little water, corn did not rehydrate & was chewy), hot cocoa
L - trail mix (the last of Emily's good stuff)
D - awesome Mexican soup and chocolate
Retrospective: Dehydrated corn really must be rehydrated at a simmer for 20 minutes. Something my stove was incapable of doing (it has one setting - boil the heck out of everything) & my stomach was incapable of waiting on. Chewy veggies are still veggies. Crossing into North Carolina, the trail changed. It became suddenly warmer and more arid, and the distinction between the two states was surprising. Gracie lagged behind some when the temperatures rose, and I took on her load more frequently as a result.
Showing posts with label Appalachian Trail. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Appalachian Trail. Show all posts
24 April 2010
23 April 2010
Adventures on the Appalachian Trail (4/22/09)
[A year ago April 15th, I set out to hike the length of the Appalachian Trail, northbound from Georgia to Maine, with my 7 year old dog, Gracie. Almost nightly, I wrote journal entries about what I was experiencing. The demands of trail life with a dog precluded me from posting these entries during the hike. I've chosen to post excerpts to mark the anniversary of this life-altering experience. Enjoy the journey, I certainly did.]
22 April 2009 - Day 8, Mile 79.3 - Deep Gap Shelter -> Muskrat Creek Shelter
Long day. Tenting tonight, shelter last night. Stuff I left out of last night's entry - almost unable to retrieve bear bag from Rocky Mountain; woke up at 4am, peeked out the bottom of the tarp, and saw twinkling lights in lots of small communities through the mountains - a reminder that there's civilization out there. It's easy to forget that during the day because all I see around me are trees, mountains, and sky. Long day = short entry - will write more tomorrow.
Retrospective: The several guys I'd been keeping pace with went into Hiawassee for the night, so I didn't expect to see anyone else I knew, but the Texas Train passed me (they were getting back on the trail after going into Hiawassee, and we all ended up at Muskrat Creek. They had added "Rooster" a little male beagle mix to their crew, through somewhat dubious circumstances. Another thru-hiker, Rooster's "owner" had asked the TX Train to watch his dog and was ok with them taking him along as they hiked. Something I would never imagine doing with Gracie. Typical of boy dogs, Rooster had to mark his territory every 10 yards, and Gracie had to stop and sniff every mark. They got to have some playtime together at the shelter, and since I had waaaay too much food from resupplying earlier in the day, I gave the TX Train a bag of granola for Rooster, who looked pretty skinny, and whose owner hadn't given them any food for him.
22 April 2009 - Day 8, Mile 79.3 - Deep Gap Shelter -> Muskrat Creek Shelter
Long day. Tenting tonight, shelter last night. Stuff I left out of last night's entry - almost unable to retrieve bear bag from Rocky Mountain; woke up at 4am, peeked out the bottom of the tarp, and saw twinkling lights in lots of small communities through the mountains - a reminder that there's civilization out there. It's easy to forget that during the day because all I see around me are trees, mountains, and sky. Long day = short entry - will write more tomorrow.
Retrospective: The several guys I'd been keeping pace with went into Hiawassee for the night, so I didn't expect to see anyone else I knew, but the Texas Train passed me (they were getting back on the trail after going into Hiawassee, and we all ended up at Muskrat Creek. They had added "Rooster" a little male beagle mix to their crew, through somewhat dubious circumstances. Another thru-hiker, Rooster's "owner" had asked the TX Train to watch his dog and was ok with them taking him along as they hiked. Something I would never imagine doing with Gracie. Typical of boy dogs, Rooster had to mark his territory every 10 yards, and Gracie had to stop and sniff every mark. They got to have some playtime together at the shelter, and since I had waaaay too much food from resupplying earlier in the day, I gave the TX Train a bag of granola for Rooster, who looked pretty skinny, and whose owner hadn't given them any food for him.
20 April 2010
Adventures on the Appalachian Trail (4/20/09)
[A year ago April 15th, I set out to hike the length of the Appalachian Trail, northbound from Georgia to Maine, with my 7 year old dog, Gracie. Almost nightly, I wrote journal entries about what I was experiencing. The demands of trail life with a dog precluded me from posting these entries during the hike. I've chosen to post excerpts to mark the anniversary of this life-altering experience. Enjoy the journey, I certainly did.]
20 April 2009 - Day 6 Mile 52.2 - Low Gap Shelter -> Rocky Mountain
Got Privy 101 from ridgerunner, Karunamiel - I asked because the privy at Low Gap shelter was full.
1. No peeing in the privy - pee in the woods.
2. Most of the Georgia privies are set up so there is a seat and a shelf. A privy exists under each space. While the open privy is in use, the one under the shelf is decomposing. Theoretically, in the time it takes to fill one privy, the dormant privy decomposes. The contents of the dormant privy are scattered, then the privy is opened, and the full one decomposes.
A ridgerunner's job (according to Karunamiel):
1. Walking information desk
2. AT census taker
3. Leave No Trace promoter
Camping away from a shelter for the first time with Geoff. We hung a PCT-style bear bag for the first time! Glad to not be alone out here - still exciting and scary. Weather was off & on rain all day. Finally the tarp dried enough to pitch when we got here (flat spot atop Rocky Mountain, ele. 4017ft.). Cold & windy atop Rocky Mtn, but rain should be past us for awhile. Sleeping bag is still wet in a couple places; may have cold feet tonight as a result (down bag loses it's insulating qualities when wet). Gracie is holding up well, but I'm struggling to keep her warm when we're not moving. Key in camp is to get tarp set up right away and get her on the sleeping bag ASAP. I'm also watching to make sure she doesn't get footsore. May put the booties on her tomorrow to help her out a little. She started getting a weepy right eye yesterday - seems better tonight, watching that as well. There are vets listed in the guidebook if I need them.
Took a 1 mile steep up & down side trail to see Chattahoochee Spring, source of the Chattahoochee River. Kinda neat to see where a river starts. Last night was tough - a hard rain that kept spattering through the tarp. Hiking was fun today. Nice & easy 5 miles out of camp, then an interesting 2 mile up & down over lichen-covered rocks. Looked like Lord of the Rings terrain. Steep & muddy descent to Unicoi Gap, then steep (but switchbacked) mile-ish climb up Rocky Mount. 1000 ft elevation gain in a mile. It's nice to be tenting in the woods, but I do feel much more secure with Geoff in the tent next door. I hope the bear bagging holds.
Recollections from last night's rainstorm: Hearing the wind rush through the treetops, then hearing/feeling it rush through the gap. The sound of the stream when the rain stopped. Birds chirping in the middle of the night after the rain. Hoot owls in the gap. Bear terror after the rain - surely it's time for them to check out camp and thinking every sound was a bear's footsteps and both bugged and relieved that Gracie just kept sleeping.
Felt like I only got 2 hours sleep last night, but I was ok energy-wise hiking today. Slept until ~7am (finally went to sleep around 4:30 and slept some prior to that). Lots of cool birds on the trail today, finches and a little bright yellow one. Pretty songs they have. Creativity & ingenuity are valuable skills out here. I'm short one tent stake, so I'm finding creative ways to stake or secure the doors (ha! I don't think you can really call these doors!) closed on the tarp and I'm using my rain jacket as a makeshift vapor barrier liner to help keep my feet warm in the damp sleeping bag
To Do:
wake up - make hot tea or mocha, eat a little something
keep Gracie warm
change to hiking clothes
break camp
hot lunch at Tray Mountain shelter
hydrate
hike to Deep Gap
call Gary Poteat
enjoy the day
spend time at the cliffs
Food:
B - Trail mix at camp & along the trail
L - oats & mocha (hot cocoa + instant coffee, yum!)
D - trail mix snacks, refried beans & polenta & veggies (quickly becoming a favorite)
Retrospective: Georgia privies also had usage meters. A study was being done and they were using pressure sensitive floormats that triggered a counter when they were stepped on to record usage statistics. After talking to the guys at Gossamer Gear, I think the "spatter through" was interior condensation that the heavy drops were knocking off the ceiling. Whatever the source, it wasn't fun to get rained on inside my only source of shelter. My to do list cracks me up today. For awhile, goal-setting for the next day was a nightly ritual. Eventually I just did that the night before I'd be in town, as I finally established a workable routine for making/breaking camp, and got far more laid back about when/where to eat, get water, and so on. To put this in context, this was my first time backpacking solo, and my first backpacking trip in over 15 years, so I had lots of stuff to learn/figure out. Like hanging a bear bag. I had every intention of at least practicing in the yard before I left, but it never happened. I did read the instructions several times, but didn't pack them, so when it came time to throw the bear bag, Geoff and I figured it out through trial and error that fortunately didn't include getting the line or or food bags permanently stuck in the trees.
20 April 2009 - Day 6 Mile 52.2 - Low Gap Shelter -> Rocky Mountain
Got Privy 101 from ridgerunner, Karunamiel - I asked because the privy at Low Gap shelter was full.
1. No peeing in the privy - pee in the woods.
2. Most of the Georgia privies are set up so there is a seat and a shelf. A privy exists under each space. While the open privy is in use, the one under the shelf is decomposing. Theoretically, in the time it takes to fill one privy, the dormant privy decomposes. The contents of the dormant privy are scattered, then the privy is opened, and the full one decomposes.
A ridgerunner's job (according to Karunamiel):
1. Walking information desk
2. AT census taker
3. Leave No Trace promoter
Camping away from a shelter for the first time with Geoff. We hung a PCT-style bear bag for the first time! Glad to not be alone out here - still exciting and scary. Weather was off & on rain all day. Finally the tarp dried enough to pitch when we got here (flat spot atop Rocky Mountain, ele. 4017ft.). Cold & windy atop Rocky Mtn, but rain should be past us for awhile. Sleeping bag is still wet in a couple places; may have cold feet tonight as a result (down bag loses it's insulating qualities when wet). Gracie is holding up well, but I'm struggling to keep her warm when we're not moving. Key in camp is to get tarp set up right away and get her on the sleeping bag ASAP. I'm also watching to make sure she doesn't get footsore. May put the booties on her tomorrow to help her out a little. She started getting a weepy right eye yesterday - seems better tonight, watching that as well. There are vets listed in the guidebook if I need them.
Took a 1 mile steep up & down side trail to see Chattahoochee Spring, source of the Chattahoochee River. Kinda neat to see where a river starts. Last night was tough - a hard rain that kept spattering through the tarp. Hiking was fun today. Nice & easy 5 miles out of camp, then an interesting 2 mile up & down over lichen-covered rocks. Looked like Lord of the Rings terrain. Steep & muddy descent to Unicoi Gap, then steep (but switchbacked) mile-ish climb up Rocky Mount. 1000 ft elevation gain in a mile. It's nice to be tenting in the woods, but I do feel much more secure with Geoff in the tent next door. I hope the bear bagging holds.
Recollections from last night's rainstorm: Hearing the wind rush through the treetops, then hearing/feeling it rush through the gap. The sound of the stream when the rain stopped. Birds chirping in the middle of the night after the rain. Hoot owls in the gap. Bear terror after the rain - surely it's time for them to check out camp and thinking every sound was a bear's footsteps and both bugged and relieved that Gracie just kept sleeping.
Felt like I only got 2 hours sleep last night, but I was ok energy-wise hiking today. Slept until ~7am (finally went to sleep around 4:30 and slept some prior to that). Lots of cool birds on the trail today, finches and a little bright yellow one. Pretty songs they have. Creativity & ingenuity are valuable skills out here. I'm short one tent stake, so I'm finding creative ways to stake or secure the doors (ha! I don't think you can really call these doors!) closed on the tarp and I'm using my rain jacket as a makeshift vapor barrier liner to help keep my feet warm in the damp sleeping bag
To Do:
wake up - make hot tea or mocha, eat a little something
keep Gracie warm
change to hiking clothes
break camp
hot lunch at Tray Mountain shelter
hydrate
hike to Deep Gap
call Gary Poteat
enjoy the day
spend time at the cliffs
Food:
B - Trail mix at camp & along the trail
L - oats & mocha (hot cocoa + instant coffee, yum!)
D - trail mix snacks, refried beans & polenta & veggies (quickly becoming a favorite)
Retrospective: Georgia privies also had usage meters. A study was being done and they were using pressure sensitive floormats that triggered a counter when they were stepped on to record usage statistics. After talking to the guys at Gossamer Gear, I think the "spatter through" was interior condensation that the heavy drops were knocking off the ceiling. Whatever the source, it wasn't fun to get rained on inside my only source of shelter. My to do list cracks me up today. For awhile, goal-setting for the next day was a nightly ritual. Eventually I just did that the night before I'd be in town, as I finally established a workable routine for making/breaking camp, and got far more laid back about when/where to eat, get water, and so on. To put this in context, this was my first time backpacking solo, and my first backpacking trip in over 15 years, so I had lots of stuff to learn/figure out. Like hanging a bear bag. I had every intention of at least practicing in the yard before I left, but it never happened. I did read the instructions several times, but didn't pack them, so when it came time to throw the bear bag, Geoff and I figured it out through trial and error that fortunately didn't include getting the line or or food bags permanently stuck in the trees.
19 April 2010
Adventures on the Appalachian Trail (4/19/09)
[A year ago April 15th, I set out to hike the length of the Appalachian Trail, northbound from Georgia to Maine, with my 7 year old dog, Gracie. Almost nightly, I wrote journal entries about what I was experiencing. The demands of trail life with a dog precluded me from posting these entries during the hike. I've chosen to post excerpts to mark the anniversary of this life-altering experience. Enjoy the journey, I certainly did.]
19 April 2009 - Day 5, Mile 41.5 - Neels Gap -> Low Gap Shelter
Felt good starting this morning. Had a tension headache most of the day but it's gone now. Been sprinkling off & on & now a steady light rain. Hope it doesn't get heavier because the tent is leaking/I'm getting spatter through at the heavier drops. I wonder if it's because I pitched it a little low and have been touching the inside ceiling a lot getting us situated. Gotta figure out how to pitch for more headroom.
Pack weight coming out of Neels Gap with water, fuel and four days ample food was 26 lbs! Gracie's pack weight with four days food was 5lbs. She's pooped again tonight. She shivers a lot in the evening. It's supposed to rain all day tomorrow. Don't know far I'll get. Next shelter is 7.2 miles - short, but skipping to the next means 15 miles or camping at a campsite without bear cables or shelter. I like tenting, but appreciate the shelter for cooking and socializing. Just hope my sleeping bag stays dry tonight. Draped my rain jacket over it where the leaking seems worst. This jacket, that I almost forgot in Austin, has been indispensable so far. A great campsite shell for when night is coming on. Typically, when I get to camp, I change into my wool baselayer and (egad) shorts, then don the fleece and/or rain shell as necessary.
Gonna read for a bit instead of stressing about the weather. It'll rain tomorrow, then it's supposed to be clear for at least a week. Things will dry eventually. We'll find a way to manage. I can hear a beautiful songbird from the tent and it makes me smile. I figure 5 more days to Franklin, NC and laundry/bed/shower/internets.
Highlights: setting the picnic table on fire at dinner, hearing the wind roar through the gap during the overnight rainstorm, surviving a wet night under the tarp, hearing hoot owls at dusk and songbirds signaling the end of the rain, being eye to eye with a salamander seeking refuge from the rain under my tarp, Privy 101 from the ridgerunner.
Food:
B - millet, quinoa, & corn, cooked on the cabin stove + strong green ginger tea, half a 20 oz. Mr. Pibb (I needed the empty soda bottle to hold my olive oil, the Wheatsville bottle I started with has a messy pour and the cap doesn't close securely)
L - cookies & cream Clif Builder Bar smeared with peanut butter, Emily's banana chip trail mix
D - pasta, pesto, sundried tomatoes, olives & tuna (Excellent! tuna pouches never tasted so good) plus hot cocoa, a few bites of trail mix while dinner cooked, and 2 squares of a dark chocolate/raspberry Chocolove bar for dessert
19 April 2009 - Day 5, Mile 41.5 - Neels Gap -> Low Gap Shelter
Felt good starting this morning. Had a tension headache most of the day but it's gone now. Been sprinkling off & on & now a steady light rain. Hope it doesn't get heavier because the tent is leaking/I'm getting spatter through at the heavier drops. I wonder if it's because I pitched it a little low and have been touching the inside ceiling a lot getting us situated. Gotta figure out how to pitch for more headroom.
Pack weight coming out of Neels Gap with water, fuel and four days ample food was 26 lbs! Gracie's pack weight with four days food was 5lbs. She's pooped again tonight. She shivers a lot in the evening. It's supposed to rain all day tomorrow. Don't know far I'll get. Next shelter is 7.2 miles - short, but skipping to the next means 15 miles or camping at a campsite without bear cables or shelter. I like tenting, but appreciate the shelter for cooking and socializing. Just hope my sleeping bag stays dry tonight. Draped my rain jacket over it where the leaking seems worst. This jacket, that I almost forgot in Austin, has been indispensable so far. A great campsite shell for when night is coming on. Typically, when I get to camp, I change into my wool baselayer and (egad) shorts, then don the fleece and/or rain shell as necessary.
Gonna read for a bit instead of stressing about the weather. It'll rain tomorrow, then it's supposed to be clear for at least a week. Things will dry eventually. We'll find a way to manage. I can hear a beautiful songbird from the tent and it makes me smile. I figure 5 more days to Franklin, NC and laundry/bed/shower/internets.
Highlights: setting the picnic table on fire at dinner, hearing the wind roar through the gap during the overnight rainstorm, surviving a wet night under the tarp, hearing hoot owls at dusk and songbirds signaling the end of the rain, being eye to eye with a salamander seeking refuge from the rain under my tarp, Privy 101 from the ridgerunner.
Food:
B - millet, quinoa, & corn, cooked on the cabin stove + strong green ginger tea, half a 20 oz. Mr. Pibb (I needed the empty soda bottle to hold my olive oil, the Wheatsville bottle I started with has a messy pour and the cap doesn't close securely)
L - cookies & cream Clif Builder Bar smeared with peanut butter, Emily's banana chip trail mix
D - pasta, pesto, sundried tomatoes, olives & tuna (Excellent! tuna pouches never tasted so good) plus hot cocoa, a few bites of trail mix while dinner cooked, and 2 squares of a dark chocolate/raspberry Chocolove bar for dessert
18 April 2010
Adventures on the Appalachian Trail (4/18/09)
[A year ago April 15th, I set out to hike the length of the Appalachian Trail, northbound from Georgia to Maine, with my 7 year old dog, Gracie. Almost nightly, I wrote journal entries about what I was experiencing. The demands of trail life with a dog precluded me from posting these entries during the hike. I've chosen to post excerpts to mark the anniversary of this life-altering experience. Enjoy the journey, I certainly did.]
18 April 2009 - Day 4, Mile 30.7 - Woods Hole Shelter -> Neels Gap/Goose Creek Campground
Bear came through camp last night about 4:30am. One had stolen food from the cables a previous night, so we made sure to hang ours out of reach, but he tested the cables, then moved on. Gracie slept right through the excitement. On Blood Mountain for rest & breakfast - if I can stand the flies - before heading to Neels Gap for resupply/short day. Ran in to the couple from yesterday (the woman Gracie nipped, and her husband) the bear got their food. The flies drove me off Blood Mountain. Hiking up Blood Mountain alone, early this morning was beautiful and eerie. Site of a legendary Creek/Cherokee battle that caused the mountain to turn red with blood. That kind of history will give you pause. Felt a lot of spirit energy. Stopped a couple of times just to take in the quiet and figure out if there was anything moving in the bushes.
Decided to overnight at Neels Gap to rest the blister instead of pushing on 11 miles. If the 6 miles past Neels Gap had been open for camping, I'd have walked on, but this is a nice respite. Goose Creek Cabins were built by the CCC in the 40s - one of the last remaining CCC recreation camps. My southern accent is coming out full force to meet the lazy Georgian drawl. I could live in a little one room cabin like that. What more does a person (this person) need?
Did sink laundry, showered, and cleaned the backpacking kitchen. Organized the food bag, mended some things (torn food bag liner, and Gracie's cracked food/water dish). Duct tape is a wonderful thing. I'm not hydrating enough!
Got my first taste of trail magic - a faith-based group grilled burgers at Walasi-Yi & visited with us. Nice bunch of folks. I ate two patties with cheese & fixin's. Called Mom & Dad & Emily. So glad to get to visit, and glad to be here. Excited to get my supply box - new varieties of food, cool peace quotes (from Laura) & a postcard from Katie. Will head out again tomorrow morning - ready to get back on the trail after a good night's sleep and a shower. Most of the guys I've been hiking with chose to stay around Neels Gap, and I caught up with the Texas Train. They trucked into Neels last night and one of their party is suffering for it. Hopefully they'll be back out tomorrow after a day of rest.
Loved hiking earlier today. Left out at 8am. Sometimes the only sounds were my footsteps (and Gracie's), the tick tick of the trekking poles on the trail, Gracie's cowbell, and our breathing. Maybe it was last night's bear sighting, but I felt like we could have come up on a bear were we a quieter pair. Saw several birds but it was hard to get a good picture. Ran into Ben (not yet Shitty Pot) slackpacking Blood Mountain today. What's a breviary? (Among Thomas Merton's personal effects)
Highlights: Shower! Trail Magic! Free shuttle to/from campground; resupply (Christmas in a box!) First bear and the hilarity that ensued as we laughed off the stress/anxiety after the bear moved on. It was like a mini episode of the Daily Show. About bears, and Gracie's complete and utter lack of interest.
Food:
B - trail mix
L - trail magic burgers
D - red lentils & rice
Retrospective: That was the last time I would see Ben. He kept hiking a long time, but was always behind me. He eventually got off the trail, but I heard about him from other hikers (mainly through Gordon Bombay). Last two nights were with the same crew of guys - Pittsburgh, Geoff, Steve, (not yet) Nordic, Hill William, and Michael. Jenny had given me a book, whose title escapes me at the moment, that was a collection of packing lists for a variety of travelers, including Grandma Gatewood, three-time AT thru-hiker. Thomas Merton was my list for the night, and I didn't know what a breviary was. According to wikipedia, it's a book of liturgical rites and prayers. The book was great "light reading" for the trail. Thanks, Jenny!
18 April 2009 - Day 4, Mile 30.7 - Woods Hole Shelter -> Neels Gap/Goose Creek Campground
Bear came through camp last night about 4:30am. One had stolen food from the cables a previous night, so we made sure to hang ours out of reach, but he tested the cables, then moved on. Gracie slept right through the excitement. On Blood Mountain for rest & breakfast - if I can stand the flies - before heading to Neels Gap for resupply/short day. Ran in to the couple from yesterday (the woman Gracie nipped, and her husband) the bear got their food. The flies drove me off Blood Mountain. Hiking up Blood Mountain alone, early this morning was beautiful and eerie. Site of a legendary Creek/Cherokee battle that caused the mountain to turn red with blood. That kind of history will give you pause. Felt a lot of spirit energy. Stopped a couple of times just to take in the quiet and figure out if there was anything moving in the bushes.
Decided to overnight at Neels Gap to rest the blister instead of pushing on 11 miles. If the 6 miles past Neels Gap had been open for camping, I'd have walked on, but this is a nice respite. Goose Creek Cabins were built by the CCC in the 40s - one of the last remaining CCC recreation camps. My southern accent is coming out full force to meet the lazy Georgian drawl. I could live in a little one room cabin like that. What more does a person (this person) need?
Did sink laundry, showered, and cleaned the backpacking kitchen. Organized the food bag, mended some things (torn food bag liner, and Gracie's cracked food/water dish). Duct tape is a wonderful thing. I'm not hydrating enough!
Got my first taste of trail magic - a faith-based group grilled burgers at Walasi-Yi & visited with us. Nice bunch of folks. I ate two patties with cheese & fixin's. Called Mom & Dad & Emily. So glad to get to visit, and glad to be here. Excited to get my supply box - new varieties of food, cool peace quotes (from Laura) & a postcard from Katie. Will head out again tomorrow morning - ready to get back on the trail after a good night's sleep and a shower. Most of the guys I've been hiking with chose to stay around Neels Gap, and I caught up with the Texas Train. They trucked into Neels last night and one of their party is suffering for it. Hopefully they'll be back out tomorrow after a day of rest.
Loved hiking earlier today. Left out at 8am. Sometimes the only sounds were my footsteps (and Gracie's), the tick tick of the trekking poles on the trail, Gracie's cowbell, and our breathing. Maybe it was last night's bear sighting, but I felt like we could have come up on a bear were we a quieter pair. Saw several birds but it was hard to get a good picture. Ran into Ben (not yet Shitty Pot) slackpacking Blood Mountain today. What's a breviary? (Among Thomas Merton's personal effects)
Highlights: Shower! Trail Magic! Free shuttle to/from campground; resupply (Christmas in a box!) First bear and the hilarity that ensued as we laughed off the stress/anxiety after the bear moved on. It was like a mini episode of the Daily Show. About bears, and Gracie's complete and utter lack of interest.
Food:
B - trail mix
L - trail magic burgers
D - red lentils & rice
Retrospective: That was the last time I would see Ben. He kept hiking a long time, but was always behind me. He eventually got off the trail, but I heard about him from other hikers (mainly through Gordon Bombay). Last two nights were with the same crew of guys - Pittsburgh, Geoff, Steve, (not yet) Nordic, Hill William, and Michael. Jenny had given me a book, whose title escapes me at the moment, that was a collection of packing lists for a variety of travelers, including Grandma Gatewood, three-time AT thru-hiker. Thomas Merton was my list for the night, and I didn't know what a breviary was. According to wikipedia, it's a book of liturgical rites and prayers. The book was great "light reading" for the trail. Thanks, Jenny!
Adventures on the Appalachian Trail (4/17/09)
[A year ago April 15th, I set out to hike the length of the Appalachian Trail, northbound from Georgia to Maine, with my 7 year old dog, Gracie. Almost nightly, I wrote journal entries about what I was experiencing. The demands of trail life with a dog precluded me from posting these entries during the hike. I've chosen to post excerpts to mark the anniversary of this life-altering experience. Enjoy the journey, I certainly did.]
17 April 2009 - Day 3 - Gooch Mtn Shelter -> Woods Hole Shelter
Tomorrow, Neels Gap & camping at Goose Creek Campground - shower! Resupply!
I like Shortcut's style - pack up & get moving, then stop for breakfast. Will try it tomorrow so Gracie stays warm. About 2 miles to Slaughter Creek (Campsite), more water, good place for breakfast. Tough day today. Physical Inventory: right heel blister, right foot bone soreness, tops of my feet, shins, and calves are sore, ligament behind right knee. Glutes, right neck sore. At least I don't have all kinda chafing, like some people. Emotional Inventory: really good until Gracie nipped a lady headed to the spring at Woods Hole. I just need to warn people she's not friendly - she's working. So, that has put a damper on my evening.
Bear report at the shelter has moved me & Gracie into the shelter (I had initially pitched the tarp 50 yards from the bear cables, where the bear had made an appearance the night before). Could really use cell service so I could check my messages. Lots of time today thinking about my friends, Allah, 3rd & 7th step prayers, an ex, but I focused on stepping carefully to not cause more or worsen existing blisters.
Highlights: Hawk crossed our path today
Food:
B - Oats
L - Trail mix & gluten-free pretzels
D - refried beans & polenta, chocolate!
Retrospective: I'd had a foot issue earlier in the year from wearing boots with insufficient cushioning/support and my trail runners were starting to give me the same symptoms
17 April 2009 - Day 3 - Gooch Mtn Shelter -> Woods Hole Shelter
Tomorrow, Neels Gap & camping at Goose Creek Campground - shower! Resupply!
I like Shortcut's style - pack up & get moving, then stop for breakfast. Will try it tomorrow so Gracie stays warm. About 2 miles to Slaughter Creek (Campsite), more water, good place for breakfast. Tough day today. Physical Inventory: right heel blister, right foot bone soreness, tops of my feet, shins, and calves are sore, ligament behind right knee. Glutes, right neck sore. At least I don't have all kinda chafing, like some people. Emotional Inventory: really good until Gracie nipped a lady headed to the spring at Woods Hole. I just need to warn people she's not friendly - she's working. So, that has put a damper on my evening.
Bear report at the shelter has moved me & Gracie into the shelter (I had initially pitched the tarp 50 yards from the bear cables, where the bear had made an appearance the night before). Could really use cell service so I could check my messages. Lots of time today thinking about my friends, Allah, 3rd & 7th step prayers, an ex, but I focused on stepping carefully to not cause more or worsen existing blisters.
Highlights: Hawk crossed our path today
Food:
B - Oats
L - Trail mix & gluten-free pretzels
D - refried beans & polenta, chocolate!
Retrospective: I'd had a foot issue earlier in the year from wearing boots with insufficient cushioning/support and my trail runners were starting to give me the same symptoms
16 April 2010
Adventures on the Appalachian Trail (4/16/09)
[Exactly a year ago, I set out to hike the length of the Appalachian Trail, northbound from Georgia to Maine, with my 7 year old dog, Gracie. Almost nightly, I wrote journal entries about what I was experiencing. The demands of trail life with a dog precluded me from posting these entries during the hike. I've chosen to post excerpts to mark the anniversary of this life-altering experience. Enjoy the journey, I certainly did.]
16 April 2009 - Day 2 - Stover Creek Shelter -> Gooch Mtn Shelter
AM stretching did not happen. Lights out at 7:30pm, as soon as the sun went below the trees. Stayed in bed until 7ish, last to leave the shelter at 9:30am. Still made my goal for the day. George (Springer Mtn ridgerunner) & shortcut stopped at Stover Creek as I was packing up. George is 77, has been living on the mountain for two months, and plans to hike the Colorado Long Trail when his ridgerunner tour is up. Awesome.
More signs of spring at lower elevations today; got some photos of budding plants that look primordial. Anyone worried about me losing weight on this trip can stop now. The meals are huge! Met lots of other hikers today. Probably 10-15 of us at the shelter. I pitched the tarp pretty well. First night in the tarp on the trail. Shelter sleepers Snore!
Visited with Crawl at Hawk Mtn. shelter at lunch. He's having a zero day while he waits for his knees to recover. Former truck driver hoping to lose 70# over the course of his thru. We talked about food! I feel pretty good about my nutrition plan. Met some fellow Texas boys including Matthew from Austin, who knows Carson and had seen one of my supply boxes. Small world. I leapfrogged three of the guys from last night's shelter, and no sign of the Rifleman. Gracie seems more tired today. Got up in the 70s today - perfect hiking weather. Got to camp, pitched the tarp & cleaned up a bit and feel better. Possible blister developing on my inside right heel.
Highlights: Long Creek Falls, tenting out, budding plants
Food: B - gluten-free hot cereal with nutritional yeast & dehydrated corn
L/snacks - instant hummus with sundried tomatoes & olive oil, trail mix, Clif Builder Bar smeared with peanut butter
D - red rice noodles with greens, cabbage, carrots, TVP, & vegetarian bouillion (thanks, Ken!)
16 April 2009 - Day 2 - Stover Creek Shelter -> Gooch Mtn Shelter
AM stretching did not happen. Lights out at 7:30pm, as soon as the sun went below the trees. Stayed in bed until 7ish, last to leave the shelter at 9:30am. Still made my goal for the day. George (Springer Mtn ridgerunner) & shortcut stopped at Stover Creek as I was packing up. George is 77, has been living on the mountain for two months, and plans to hike the Colorado Long Trail when his ridgerunner tour is up. Awesome.
More signs of spring at lower elevations today; got some photos of budding plants that look primordial. Anyone worried about me losing weight on this trip can stop now. The meals are huge! Met lots of other hikers today. Probably 10-15 of us at the shelter. I pitched the tarp pretty well. First night in the tarp on the trail. Shelter sleepers Snore!
Visited with Crawl at Hawk Mtn. shelter at lunch. He's having a zero day while he waits for his knees to recover. Former truck driver hoping to lose 70# over the course of his thru. We talked about food! I feel pretty good about my nutrition plan. Met some fellow Texas boys including Matthew from Austin, who knows Carson and had seen one of my supply boxes. Small world. I leapfrogged three of the guys from last night's shelter, and no sign of the Rifleman. Gracie seems more tired today. Got up in the 70s today - perfect hiking weather. Got to camp, pitched the tarp & cleaned up a bit and feel better. Possible blister developing on my inside right heel.
Highlights: Long Creek Falls, tenting out, budding plants
Food: B - gluten-free hot cereal with nutritional yeast & dehydrated corn
L/snacks - instant hummus with sundried tomatoes & olive oil, trail mix, Clif Builder Bar smeared with peanut butter
D - red rice noodles with greens, cabbage, carrots, TVP, & vegetarian bouillion (thanks, Ken!)
15 April 2010
Adventures on the Appalachian Trail (4/15/09)
[Exactly a year ago, I set out to hike the length of the Appalachian Trail, northbound from Georgia to Maine, with my 7 year old dog, Gracie. Almost nightly, I wrote journal entries about what I was experiencing. The demands of trail life with a dog precluded me from posting these entries during the hike. I've chosen to post excerpts to mark the anniversary of this life-altering experience. Enjoy the journey, I certainly did.]
15 April 2009 - Day 1 - Stover Creek Shelter
Summitted Springer Mountain this afternoon & went 2.8 miles on the official AT. Wow. It is still sinking in that I am really doing this. Shelter full of guys tonight. A strange guy showed up at the shelter last night at midnight. With Gracie, I wasn't too concerned, but everyone who's run into him on the trail today had a strange feeling about him. Dressed in denim & workboots, carrying a rifle, machete, and an army knife. Gracie put the scare into him and I truly believe he is harmless - James from Ohio - but I'm glad he didn't make it far. Shared some of my breakfast with him as an act of goodwill & I had the sense he didn't have any food, which my fellow hikers confirmed. Hope he got to town - safety & warmth. This world is hard for some people. Trying the shelter again tonight & putting my feet up. My lower legs can definitely tell they had a workout.
So far, one day in, I'm glad to have little company. There are five of us here at Stover. Two guys from Georgia (a thru-hiker and his buddy who's going as far as Neels Gap) Matt from Maine (Transition), who I leap-frogged several times on the trail & another kid whose name I don't know (Ben - Shitty Pot) from Arkansas. Gracie has been cranky & mean today - almost bit one of the Georgia guys. I like that she's being protective.
Started at 9:20am - later than I wanted, but turned out fine. The (Approach) trail was not as difficult as Bryson (Bill Bryson, author of "A Walk in the Woods") had led me to believe, but I forget that I'm an athlete. 11.6 miles the first day is good. Will try to spend the night in the shelter. Mild concern about rodents, but hopeful that Gracie will keep them at bay. If she freaks, I'll have to pitch the tent in the dark. I can do it but don't want to. We'll see what happens. Hard to sleep last night with the Rifleman (James) waking us up at midnight & the cold & unfamiliar noises. The wind in the trees such a foreign sound that I expect I'll come to welcome.
Checked in at the visitor center this morning & Loretta took our picture after Gracie got mouthy with her. I think Gracie was/is feeding off my nervousness. George the ridgerunner atop Springer said we were the 6th thru-hikers today and 700-something since Feb. 28th. My left foot was numb when we started this morning, so cold it was. Got into the 40s at the shelter last night (at the base of the Approach Trail) and will surely hit the 30s tonight. George said it was 34 on Springer last night. Glad Stover Creek is a little lower in elevation, hoping for warmer temps. I'll be happy if my water doesn't freeze. Speaking of weather, it's clear and sunny and should stay that way until Sat. or Sun. when rain may be back. Gracie snoogled really close a couple of times last night but we both slept pretty fitfully. I hope she worked hard enough today that she'll sleep through the night.
Bufflaclava is sure warm. Only 7:15 and I am sure ready for bed. It's the warmest place to be. Need to stretch a little, though. Body scan: So far so good on the feet - use foot powder in the am; hips will surely be sore tomorrow and lower legs are achy tonight. I've taken ibuprofen and will stretch before bed. Did not drink enough while hiking and had a mild headache when I got to the shelter, but I'm ok now. Don't like having to pee in the middle of the night. Backpack: felt some strain in my left upper back - perhaps misaligned straps/belt or unbalanced load. Will be more aware of how pack fits in AM. Stretching felt good, will try to do some in the am.
Retrospective: My friends Nett & Jenn had given me a Buff as a trail present. An unofficial goal was to see how many ways I could find to wear it. During cold nights, the "balaclava" variation, dubbed the Bufflaclava, kept my head pretty warm. Thankfully, "the Rifleman" was one of less than a handful of characters I would encounter along the trail that gave me pause. One thing that did give me pause was Gracie's temperament. She continued to be cranky & mean with people much more than a hiker dog should, and more than once I considered getting off the trail or getting her off the trail, but I simply wasn't willing to go that far. Instead I tried to find ways to make the experience work for her, and by the end, she was making friends with just about everyone.
15 April 2009 - Day 1 - Stover Creek Shelter
Summitted Springer Mountain this afternoon & went 2.8 miles on the official AT. Wow. It is still sinking in that I am really doing this. Shelter full of guys tonight. A strange guy showed up at the shelter last night at midnight. With Gracie, I wasn't too concerned, but everyone who's run into him on the trail today had a strange feeling about him. Dressed in denim & workboots, carrying a rifle, machete, and an army knife. Gracie put the scare into him and I truly believe he is harmless - James from Ohio - but I'm glad he didn't make it far. Shared some of my breakfast with him as an act of goodwill & I had the sense he didn't have any food, which my fellow hikers confirmed. Hope he got to town - safety & warmth. This world is hard for some people. Trying the shelter again tonight & putting my feet up. My lower legs can definitely tell they had a workout.
So far, one day in, I'm glad to have little company. There are five of us here at Stover. Two guys from Georgia (a thru-hiker and his buddy who's going as far as Neels Gap) Matt from Maine (Transition), who I leap-frogged several times on the trail & another kid whose name I don't know (Ben - Shitty Pot) from Arkansas. Gracie has been cranky & mean today - almost bit one of the Georgia guys. I like that she's being protective.
Started at 9:20am - later than I wanted, but turned out fine. The (Approach) trail was not as difficult as Bryson (Bill Bryson, author of "A Walk in the Woods") had led me to believe, but I forget that I'm an athlete. 11.6 miles the first day is good. Will try to spend the night in the shelter. Mild concern about rodents, but hopeful that Gracie will keep them at bay. If she freaks, I'll have to pitch the tent in the dark. I can do it but don't want to. We'll see what happens. Hard to sleep last night with the Rifleman (James) waking us up at midnight & the cold & unfamiliar noises. The wind in the trees such a foreign sound that I expect I'll come to welcome.
Checked in at the visitor center this morning & Loretta took our picture after Gracie got mouthy with her. I think Gracie was/is feeding off my nervousness. George the ridgerunner atop Springer said we were the 6th thru-hikers today and 700-something since Feb. 28th. My left foot was numb when we started this morning, so cold it was. Got into the 40s at the shelter last night (at the base of the Approach Trail) and will surely hit the 30s tonight. George said it was 34 on Springer last night. Glad Stover Creek is a little lower in elevation, hoping for warmer temps. I'll be happy if my water doesn't freeze. Speaking of weather, it's clear and sunny and should stay that way until Sat. or Sun. when rain may be back. Gracie snoogled really close a couple of times last night but we both slept pretty fitfully. I hope she worked hard enough today that she'll sleep through the night.
Bufflaclava is sure warm. Only 7:15 and I am sure ready for bed. It's the warmest place to be. Need to stretch a little, though. Body scan: So far so good on the feet - use foot powder in the am; hips will surely be sore tomorrow and lower legs are achy tonight. I've taken ibuprofen and will stretch before bed. Did not drink enough while hiking and had a mild headache when I got to the shelter, but I'm ok now. Don't like having to pee in the middle of the night. Backpack: felt some strain in my left upper back - perhaps misaligned straps/belt or unbalanced load. Will be more aware of how pack fits in AM. Stretching felt good, will try to do some in the am.
Retrospective: My friends Nett & Jenn had given me a Buff as a trail present. An unofficial goal was to see how many ways I could find to wear it. During cold nights, the "balaclava" variation, dubbed the Bufflaclava, kept my head pretty warm. Thankfully, "the Rifleman" was one of less than a handful of characters I would encounter along the trail that gave me pause. One thing that did give me pause was Gracie's temperament. She continued to be cranky & mean with people much more than a hiker dog should, and more than once I considered getting off the trail or getting her off the trail, but I simply wasn't willing to go that far. Instead I tried to find ways to make the experience work for her, and by the end, she was making friends with just about everyone.
13 September 2009
Another ride on the rollercoaster
Another crazy week on the AT for us. When we got to Glencliff, Journey told me it was time for her to go home. I was really sad, and already anxious about New Hampshire, so felt like I was starting all over again when Gracie and I hiked out on our own the next day. Still, I have so much respect for Journey, who continued to hike with one broken and one sprained finger, and had the courage to honor that voice that said it was time to go home. It is hard to part ways with trail family, but I know I have a friend for life and am grateful for the time we spent on the trail together.
Our second day out of Glencliff, we hiked up Little Haystack, on our way to Franconia Ridge. Over halfway up the tough, tree-lined climb, I was near tears and wondering why I was still doing this. Had I really hiked over 1800 miles for yet another tough climb, with nothing to see but rocks and trees? Full of frustration, I kept climbing, and soon, we were above treeline, and I was crying again, awestruck by the view. Yes, I walked 1800 miles for this! Franconia Ridge is now my favorite view on the AT. Gracie and I stayed on the ridgeline for awhile, and caught up to Luke and his father, Matthew on Mt. Lafayette. We ended up hiking together all the way to Pinkham Notch, then I hiked on while they went into Gorham to rest.
Before we reached Pinkham Notch, we all summitted Mt. Washington, highest peak in New Hampshire. The highlight of Mt. Washington was running into fellow Austinite Carrie Williams on the summit. Crazy coincidence and a total delight!
The next night, we did a work for stay at Carter Notch Hut, and were reunited with The Saint and Aquafresh, and a host of other fellow northbounders. Good times. Now we're resting up in Gorham, with probably three to three and a half weeks left until Katahdin. The New Hampshire rocks have been so rough that Gracie is wearing her booties, and quite happily. Everyone seems to have converged in Gorham. It's like a hiker family reunion. I still miss Journey, but have not lacked for companions on the trail. We've also been blessed with some surprise care packages. Mucho thanks to Denali & Gorgonzola's friend Dave for letting me use his laptop for an update. Internet is hard to come by here. Thanks for all the good wishes and support! Onward to Maine!
Kel & Gracie
Our second day out of Glencliff, we hiked up Little Haystack, on our way to Franconia Ridge. Over halfway up the tough, tree-lined climb, I was near tears and wondering why I was still doing this. Had I really hiked over 1800 miles for yet another tough climb, with nothing to see but rocks and trees? Full of frustration, I kept climbing, and soon, we were above treeline, and I was crying again, awestruck by the view. Yes, I walked 1800 miles for this! Franconia Ridge is now my favorite view on the AT. Gracie and I stayed on the ridgeline for awhile, and caught up to Luke and his father, Matthew on Mt. Lafayette. We ended up hiking together all the way to Pinkham Notch, then I hiked on while they went into Gorham to rest.
Before we reached Pinkham Notch, we all summitted Mt. Washington, highest peak in New Hampshire. The highlight of Mt. Washington was running into fellow Austinite Carrie Williams on the summit. Crazy coincidence and a total delight!
The next night, we did a work for stay at Carter Notch Hut, and were reunited with The Saint and Aquafresh, and a host of other fellow northbounders. Good times. Now we're resting up in Gorham, with probably three to three and a half weeks left until Katahdin. The New Hampshire rocks have been so rough that Gracie is wearing her booties, and quite happily. Everyone seems to have converged in Gorham. It's like a hiker family reunion. I still miss Journey, but have not lacked for companions on the trail. We've also been blessed with some surprise care packages. Mucho thanks to Denali & Gorgonzola's friend Dave for letting me use his laptop for an update. Internet is hard to come by here. Thanks for all the good wishes and support! Onward to Maine!
Kel & Gracie
30 August 2009
a rare photo
I do wish I had the time to upload more photos from the trip, but tending to a dog and myself takes more effort than I anticipated. Until I get back home, here's a photo from our stay at the Green Mountain House in Manchester Center, Vermont. This was a great hostel, and exceptionally well run by former thru-hiker Jeff. He took this photo after he dropped us at the trailhead. Gracie actually rode in the cab of the pickup, not the bed. She looks pretty stout in this picture. It's amazing how muscular she's become. She'll be wearing her pack again for the Whites. She has lots of extra energy in the evenings, thanks to the cooler weather and being pack-free for such a long time. Manchester Center was the first time we hitched a ride into town. Gracie & I didn't have much luck. We stood at the road for 20-40 minutes. Checkpoint joined us about 15 minutes before it started to rain, and we soon had a ride into town. I'm not too fond of hitchhiking, even though it's easier/safer around trail towns than elsewhere. We'll have to hitch a few more times before this is all over, though. Headed to another hostel near Hanover, New Hampshire for the night. Tomorrow we begin our approach to the White Mountains.
22 August 2009
My first convertible
pants, that is, and other things I never thought I'd do or wear on this trip...
- Get convertible pants. My first pair of hiking pants were great, but although my weight has stayed pretty consistent, I've got more leg muscle, as is typical for women hiking the trail, so they were getting a little snug in the legs and not comfortable for hiking. I picked up a pair of convertible hiking pants (zip off legs to convert to shorts) at my most recent town stop and love them!
- Eat as much ice cream as I have. MediumRare was right! Almost every town stop includes at least one serving of ice cream. Some hostels have pints of Ben & Jerry's on hand, and that's always a factor in choosing a place to stay. While waiting for the bus after grocery shopping in Dalton, Journey & I shared a pint of Ben & Jerry's in the parking lot. Awesome.
- Wear crocs. Fake ones, that is. The Smokies taught me that I needed a pair of camp shoes to give my feet a break from wet, soggy hiking shoes. I tried flip flops in Hot Springs, but my feet kept sliding out of them and it's hard to wear them with socks. So, in Damascus, I relented and got a pair of fake crocs. I've always thought crocs were kinda ugly, and considered them a gateway shoe to Birkenstocks and all they represent. But I am now a convert. Best $5 I've spent on the trail. My "crocs" are incredibly comfortable, awesome camp shoes, and the reality is, I am becoming more of a crunchy granola-eating, Birkenstock-wearing, tree-hugging hippie all the time, I might as well accept it and embrace it.
- Go this long without a haircut. I anticipated cutting my hair somewhere around the halfway point, but I haven't yet, so I might as well wait until the finish.
- Wear shorts over my long underwear. This started in the Smokies in the interest of having something warm and dry to wear in the evening around camp. Comfort and functionality trump looks.
- Miss family and friends as much as I have. The biggest of them all. I am so grateful for the community I am a part of, the support and love I receive, and am glad to know I have a home to return to. Not much more I can say about that.
15 August 2009
insert clever title here
Today is our four month trail-versary, and I made Journey laugh over breakfast when I said I thought it was quite fitting to spend it zero-ing in town! We hiked only three miles to get to Dalton, MA yesterday, then spent the rest of the day dealing with the bus service to get to our maildrops in Cheshire and get more food for Gracie. I'm not sure what I was thinking when I planned to get from Sheffield, MA to Manchester Center, VT in 5 days. Not gonna happen! Twenty mile days are no longer part of my vocabulary. So, yesterday's "rest day" was not so restful and we decided to stay on another day. Lots has happened since Gracie & I left New Jersey.
We stayed at Graymoor Spiritual Life center (run by a bunch of Franciscan monks), camping behind the ballfield backstop. They were having a centennial celebration/reunion weekend for their recovery program, and all the hikers were invited to share in the meals that day, which was a nice treat. Although the stop at Graymoor wasn't the peace and quiet hoped for, just being there brought a sense of calm and serenity, especially when I took Gracie for a walk through the grounds and visited to eclectic shrines and memorials.
The following day, it rained and rained, and when the thunder and lightning started, Gracie and I literally crawled under a rock for a bit to wait out the weather. After we started walking again, I spent the rest of the afternoon cursing the trail and every frustrating thing about it. Being at Graymoor helped me be aware of and feel my anger and frustration, and letting it out was really cathartic. The rain cleared up before I reached the shelter, and by the next morning, I was happy to hike again.
We camped in the backyard of a real estate office (with permission) in Kent, CT and I had a "Kent Mocha" at Kent Coffee & Chocolate before leaving town the next morning. Kent is the kind of place people go to buy things they don't need, but the people were friendly and they had some great public art. I picked out a dark chocolate ginger Buddha at the chocolate shop, and packed it out of town for a trail treat. In Salisbury, CT, we visited the nation's first public library, Journey and Blink shared their ice cream with me on the benches outside the local market, and we all cooked and ate dinner on the lawn of the town square, beneath a statue, before hiking a mile out of town to camp.
We spent a "working zero" at an organic farm near Sheffield, MA, where we spent hours weeding and mulching peppers and eggplants in exchange for a place to tent, showers, laundry, a trip to Great Barrington for shopping (they have a great co-op!), and meals that reminded me of Casa de Luz. Almost everything served was grown on the farm.
We're staying at the house of the nicest guy in Dalton. He's opened his home to hikers for 30 years! Hiking the trail is an amazing opportunity to experience firsthand the kindness and generosity of the human spirit. Trail magic is one of the things I'll remember most about this adventure.
We stayed at Graymoor Spiritual Life center (run by a bunch of Franciscan monks), camping behind the ballfield backstop. They were having a centennial celebration/reunion weekend for their recovery program, and all the hikers were invited to share in the meals that day, which was a nice treat. Although the stop at Graymoor wasn't the peace and quiet hoped for, just being there brought a sense of calm and serenity, especially when I took Gracie for a walk through the grounds and visited to eclectic shrines and memorials.
The following day, it rained and rained, and when the thunder and lightning started, Gracie and I literally crawled under a rock for a bit to wait out the weather. After we started walking again, I spent the rest of the afternoon cursing the trail and every frustrating thing about it. Being at Graymoor helped me be aware of and feel my anger and frustration, and letting it out was really cathartic. The rain cleared up before I reached the shelter, and by the next morning, I was happy to hike again.
We camped in the backyard of a real estate office (with permission) in Kent, CT and I had a "Kent Mocha" at Kent Coffee & Chocolate before leaving town the next morning. Kent is the kind of place people go to buy things they don't need, but the people were friendly and they had some great public art. I picked out a dark chocolate ginger Buddha at the chocolate shop, and packed it out of town for a trail treat. In Salisbury, CT, we visited the nation's first public library, Journey and Blink shared their ice cream with me on the benches outside the local market, and we all cooked and ate dinner on the lawn of the town square, beneath a statue, before hiking a mile out of town to camp.
We spent a "working zero" at an organic farm near Sheffield, MA, where we spent hours weeding and mulching peppers and eggplants in exchange for a place to tent, showers, laundry, a trip to Great Barrington for shopping (they have a great co-op!), and meals that reminded me of Casa de Luz. Almost everything served was grown on the farm.
We're staying at the house of the nicest guy in Dalton. He's opened his home to hikers for 30 years! Hiking the trail is an amazing opportunity to experience firsthand the kindness and generosity of the human spirit. Trail magic is one of the things I'll remember most about this adventure.
28 July 2009
not so fast with that rope...
New Jersey has been pretty awesome. Today is a short day, only 6 miles of hiking, so I'm taking some time to rest and update the blog at the Episcopal church hostel in Vernon. They don't allow dogs inside, so we pitched the tent outside the volunteer firehouse last night. I was blessed with a great sunset and sunrise while in town. In the mountains, the surrounding trees usually obscure the views. Maybe you remember those Pace picante sauce commercials with the cowboys who almost string up the cook because the salsa is made in New Jersey? Well, I don't know what I was expecting from the Garden State, but I have been pleasantly surprised and delighted by the generous people, tasty local peaches, and yes, even a locally made organic salsa that was better than Pace!
The hiking theme for New Jersey is "rocks, mosquitos, and bears, oh my!" The mosquitos are probably the worst part. Three nights ago, I stopped at a shelter intending to get water at the nearby spring, but got attacked by a swarm of mosquitos. I frantically removed my pack, found the deet and doused myself, then got out of there before they could carry Gracie off. The next shelter was a little more hospitable, so I pitched the tent across from the bear box. But it would not be a peaceful night. Around 9pm, the air raid siren sounded at the nearby lake. I've been hearing a lot of those lately; most communities seem to have holdover sirens from years back, and sound them once a day, so I didn't pay it much mind. Less than an hour later, we started to hear some pretty intense thunder. We spent the next couple of hours (although it seemed like longer) cowering in the tent as the most intense storm I've ever experienced passed right through camp. The rain was not that bad, but poor Gracie was shaking and panting as the lightning and thunder crashed around us. At times there was no delay between flash and crash. We stayed dry in the tent, though, and eventually got to sleep after the thunder and lightning passed.
By noon the next day, I was in need of some trail magic. I was feeling bad that Gracie had such a frightening experience with the storm, and had let myself get too hungry. Wanting to get to the mayor's house in Unionville for the night, a 20 mile hike, I hadn't taken enough breaks for water and snacks. I stopped at High Point State Park headquarters for water and lunch. When I staggered out of the visitor center, a guy asked if I was thru-hiking, and said he was grilling out back and I was invited to come eat. I joined Grey Ghost (GA-ME '93), his wife, Ann, Bullet, and West for burgers, hot dogs, sodas, salads, and chips. I left the park at 2:45, a much happier hiker, and still made it to Unionville in time for dinner and the hospitality of "the Mayor." This guy will soon be a trail legend. There were 26 hikers at his house the night Gracie & I were there. He fed all of us supper and breakfast, did our laundry, and offered us some encouragement and inspiration for the rest of our journey. Once again, the kindness and support of others relieved my frustration and worry, restored my confidence in myself and humanity, and sent me back on the trail with enthusiasm. More than ever, I *know* that I am not alone on this journey, or in life.
The hiking theme for New Jersey is "rocks, mosquitos, and bears, oh my!" The mosquitos are probably the worst part. Three nights ago, I stopped at a shelter intending to get water at the nearby spring, but got attacked by a swarm of mosquitos. I frantically removed my pack, found the deet and doused myself, then got out of there before they could carry Gracie off. The next shelter was a little more hospitable, so I pitched the tent across from the bear box. But it would not be a peaceful night. Around 9pm, the air raid siren sounded at the nearby lake. I've been hearing a lot of those lately; most communities seem to have holdover sirens from years back, and sound them once a day, so I didn't pay it much mind. Less than an hour later, we started to hear some pretty intense thunder. We spent the next couple of hours (although it seemed like longer) cowering in the tent as the most intense storm I've ever experienced passed right through camp. The rain was not that bad, but poor Gracie was shaking and panting as the lightning and thunder crashed around us. At times there was no delay between flash and crash. We stayed dry in the tent, though, and eventually got to sleep after the thunder and lightning passed.
By noon the next day, I was in need of some trail magic. I was feeling bad that Gracie had such a frightening experience with the storm, and had let myself get too hungry. Wanting to get to the mayor's house in Unionville for the night, a 20 mile hike, I hadn't taken enough breaks for water and snacks. I stopped at High Point State Park headquarters for water and lunch. When I staggered out of the visitor center, a guy asked if I was thru-hiking, and said he was grilling out back and I was invited to come eat. I joined Grey Ghost (GA-ME '93), his wife, Ann, Bullet, and West for burgers, hot dogs, sodas, salads, and chips. I left the park at 2:45, a much happier hiker, and still made it to Unionville in time for dinner and the hospitality of "the Mayor." This guy will soon be a trail legend. There were 26 hikers at his house the night Gracie & I were there. He fed all of us supper and breakfast, did our laundry, and offered us some encouragement and inspiration for the rest of our journey. Once again, the kindness and support of others relieved my frustration and worry, restored my confidence in myself and humanity, and sent me back on the trail with enthusiasm. More than ever, I *know* that I am not alone on this journey, or in life.
22 July 2009
Feeling like a real hiker
Here's the update Kelli left on Sandra's voicemail Sunday, 7/19, around noon:
I am a couple of days from Delaware Water Gap. A couple of days ago I left Port Clinton, where the burgers are huge and the fries are enormous. And people love their yard ornaments, above-ground pools and fake deer.
I've had one evening of rain but it hasn't been terrible. I've been in the tent for six consecutive nights, so I feel like I'm turning into a real hiker. I actually passed up an opportunity for a shower yesterday.
I have passed the 90-day mark, and have fewer than 900 miles to go to Katahdin, so I feel like the countdown has begun. I had some really awesome views in Pennsylvania. My new shoes are great, and re-supply has been totally, totally awesome.
Gracie's doing great. She's making friends on the trail. She may have picked up giardia again so I'm just kind of keeping an eye on that and looking at getting her in to see a vet in the next couple of days. But she's eating great and her spirits are great, and she is totally a champion of the rocks of Pennsylvania.
I am a couple of days from Delaware Water Gap. A couple of days ago I left Port Clinton, where the burgers are huge and the fries are enormous. And people love their yard ornaments, above-ground pools and fake deer.
I've had one evening of rain but it hasn't been terrible. I've been in the tent for six consecutive nights, so I feel like I'm turning into a real hiker. I actually passed up an opportunity for a shower yesterday.
I have passed the 90-day mark, and have fewer than 900 miles to go to Katahdin, so I feel like the countdown has begun. I had some really awesome views in Pennsylvania. My new shoes are great, and re-supply has been totally, totally awesome.
Gracie's doing great. She's making friends on the trail. She may have picked up giardia again so I'm just kind of keeping an eye on that and looking at getting her in to see a vet in the next couple of days. But she's eating great and her spirits are great, and she is totally a champion of the rocks of Pennsylvania.
03 June 2009
It's not nice to fool mother nature...
Or to hike when mother nature is putting on a heckuva lightning show! Back on our 31st day of this adventure, we got stuck in a thunderstorm between Roan Mtn and the Stan Murray Shelter. Just as we got to the shelter, a small bolt of lightning struck about 25 yards from the shelter. Poor Gracie got a little shock when the current traveled over the rain-soaked ground. She yelped and jumped into the shelter, then the other hikers pulled me in. We sat, cold and wet, Gracie shivering, and waited over an hour for the worst of the storm to pass. Then we jumped back into the weather and hiked/jogged another 2 miles to the next shelter, because there was no room for us at Stan Murray. It was a scary two miles, and left me concerned about whether I should be putting Gracie through all of this. The long miles, unpredictable weather, ticks, snakes, Giardia. Yet every morning, she's happy and ready to hike some more. So we keep going.
This afternoon, as we were making ready to hike out of Pearisburg, everyone was talking about a severe weather system moving into the area. I could see it in the distance, over the mountains we were headed toward. Then I saw the lightning, and decided the Holiday Motor Lodge would be a wise choice. So here we are. We've got a lot of miles to put in over the next seven days, but they'll still be there tomorrow. Tonight, it's important that we're safe from the storm. I don't mind hiking or camping in the rain, but lightning is another story.
This afternoon, as we were making ready to hike out of Pearisburg, everyone was talking about a severe weather system moving into the area. I could see it in the distance, over the mountains we were headed toward. Then I saw the lightning, and decided the Holiday Motor Lodge would be a wise choice. So here we are. We've got a lot of miles to put in over the next seven days, but they'll still be there tomorrow. Tonight, it's important that we're safe from the storm. I don't mind hiking or camping in the rain, but lightning is another story.
30 May 2009
off the grid
Back home, I'm kinda notorious for returning to the house a time or two to get something I've forgotten before I leave. On the trail, everything is so simplified and essential, that it's next to impossible to leave without something. Town is another story. When I got to Atkins and went to charge my phone, I discovered I'd left the charger at the bunkhouse in Damascus. Fortunately, the hostess, Suzanne, is mailing it ahead, and I'll retrieve when I get to Pearisburg in 4-5 days. Until then, my phone will be off unless I have an emergency. So, for the first time, I'll be completely without connection to home, or a timepiece.
Gracie & I had our best hostel experience yet at Happy Hiker Hollow in Atkins. It is hiker heaven, run by a former thru-hiker and her long distance hiking fella. All you can eat dinner and breakfast really made it fantastic. Good, home-cooked food, a real bed, laundry, and a great place to relax. We're recharged for the next section of wilderness, and hopefully, most of the rainy weather has passed for awhile. I'm keeping my fingers crossed!
Peace!
Kel & Gracie
Gracie & I had our best hostel experience yet at Happy Hiker Hollow in Atkins. It is hiker heaven, run by a former thru-hiker and her long distance hiking fella. All you can eat dinner and breakfast really made it fantastic. Good, home-cooked food, a real bed, laundry, and a great place to relax. We're recharged for the next section of wilderness, and hopefully, most of the rainy weather has passed for awhile. I'm keeping my fingers crossed!
Peace!
Kel & Gracie
28 May 2009
Gracie had a tender moment with a pony foal....
This is Sandra, posting Kelli's words from her voicemail which I received at 11:30 today. 'Hope it's ok that I'm including a link to a page which has pictures of "Grayson Highlands Park", which is what I think Kelli described today: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grayson_Highlands_State_Park.
...This is Kelli. 'Sorry I missed you.
I am headed to the Partnership Shelter this afternoon, which is the only shelter on the AT that has a shower. I'm really excited about it because I haven't had a shower since Damascus, which was about 4 days ago.
Anyway...it's been raining off and on. We have fortunately been out of the weather in the evenings. We are mending. Our tummies are doing better, and we are putting in lots of good miles again, so Gracie and I are both on the mend digestively-speaking.
Grayson Highlands has been the highlight of the hike so far. It was like hiking through the Scottish Highlands - with ponies! Gracie had a tender moment with a pony foal that wanted to get a closer look at her, which was really cute.
Food is holding out great. I can tell I'm feeling better because I'm craving food again. Yeah, just lots of ups and downs on the AT. Just loving being out here: beautiful sights, sounds and smells.
Miss everybody back home. Hope you're doing well. I will be in touch soon as soon as I can. I've had, like, really, really terrible access to internet and phone while I've been out here, unfortunately. I wish I could update more frequently and be in touch more often than I can but I miss everybody. Hope you're doing well. Thanks for being willing to post this little blog update for me.
Oh, no trail name yet. Well, no official trail name yet, but I am going by "Kel" on the Trail which feels good. It's an old nickname from college days and it's kinda nice to be using it again.
Talk to you guys soon. Take care, love you.
...This is Kelli. 'Sorry I missed you.
I am headed to the Partnership Shelter this afternoon, which is the only shelter on the AT that has a shower. I'm really excited about it because I haven't had a shower since Damascus, which was about 4 days ago.
Anyway...it's been raining off and on. We have fortunately been out of the weather in the evenings. We are mending. Our tummies are doing better, and we are putting in lots of good miles again, so Gracie and I are both on the mend digestively-speaking.
Grayson Highlands has been the highlight of the hike so far. It was like hiking through the Scottish Highlands - with ponies! Gracie had a tender moment with a pony foal that wanted to get a closer look at her, which was really cute.
Food is holding out great. I can tell I'm feeling better because I'm craving food again. Yeah, just lots of ups and downs on the AT. Just loving being out here: beautiful sights, sounds and smells.
Miss everybody back home. Hope you're doing well. I will be in touch soon as soon as I can. I've had, like, really, really terrible access to internet and phone while I've been out here, unfortunately. I wish I could update more frequently and be in touch more often than I can but I miss everybody. Hope you're doing well. Thanks for being willing to post this little blog update for me.
Oh, no trail name yet. Well, no official trail name yet, but I am going by "Kel" on the Trail which feels good. It's an old nickname from college days and it's kinda nice to be using it again.
Talk to you guys soon. Take care, love you.
20 May 2009
nothing doing
Gracie and I are hopefully wrapping up our stay at the Laurel Fork Lodge today. We've been waiting on our resupply box to arrive, because it has the all-important dog food in it. Yesterday was a zero day. The hostel here is nice, with a kitchen/computer/tv room in which to relax, and nice sunny, outdoor spots for Gracie to hang out and rest. Zero days are actually a bit of a challenge for me. Once I get all my chores done, I don't know what to do with all the free time. This is also a challenge when at home. Yesterday, I watched three movies (Mary Poppins, Ice Age, and Babe) read, and took a brief nap. Along with eating a tremendous amount of food. I woke up at 8am this morning, then went promptly back to bed and slept until almost 11am. Almost unheard of for me!
Delightfully, the mail just arrived. It's like Christmas each time I open a resupply box, because I've forgotten what went into each one, and the people mailing them have been adding extra treats. I am well-stocked with dark chocolate for the "Trail to Damascus!" Thanks TUMC! I'd better make a move toward leaving, or I'll get sucked back into the zero day vortex.
Peace!
Kel & Gracie
Delightfully, the mail just arrived. It's like Christmas each time I open a resupply box, because I've forgotten what went into each one, and the people mailing them have been adding extra treats. I am well-stocked with dark chocolate for the "Trail to Damascus!" Thanks TUMC! I'd better make a move toward leaving, or I'll get sucked back into the zero day vortex.
Peace!
Kel & Gracie
18 May 2009
the first 30 days
15 May marked my thirty day anniversary on the trail. Here are a few stats for the duration:
356.9 miles from Springer Mountain, GA
2 - 20 mile days
2 - zero mile days
3 blisters (all mostly healed)
1 new pair of insoles
3 states (GA, NC, TN)
4 National Forests (Cherokee, Chatahoochee, Nantahala, Pisgah)
1 National Park (Great Smoky Mountains)
1+ journal
3 coffee cups (I finally ditched the disposables and bought a lexan cup in Erwin, TN)
700+ photos
5 occurrences of Trail Magic
Things broken: spork, trekking pole
Things abandoned: shaving, deodorant
Things found: resourcefulness to patch a broken trekking pole until the replacement arrived, creativity to retrieve a rock sack stuck in a tree branch 25 feet in the air, and resilience to endure with a mostly positive attitude more consecutive days of rain and wet soggy trail than I care to count
It's not likely that I'll do similar updates at each 30 day increment, but this first 30 felt kinda big, so there it is. I am keeping a daily written journal, and while it's not possible for me to post all those entries now, when I return, I will take the time to post excerpts from each day along with pictures, either here or at trailjournals.com.
356.9 miles from Springer Mountain, GA
2 - 20 mile days
2 - zero mile days
3 blisters (all mostly healed)
1 new pair of insoles
3 states (GA, NC, TN)
4 National Forests (Cherokee, Chatahoochee, Nantahala, Pisgah)
1 National Park (Great Smoky Mountains)
1+ journal
3 coffee cups (I finally ditched the disposables and bought a lexan cup in Erwin, TN)
700+ photos
5 occurrences of Trail Magic
Things broken: spork, trekking pole
Things abandoned: shaving, deodorant
Things found: resourcefulness to patch a broken trekking pole until the replacement arrived, creativity to retrieve a rock sack stuck in a tree branch 25 feet in the air, and resilience to endure with a mostly positive attitude more consecutive days of rain and wet soggy trail than I care to count
It's not likely that I'll do similar updates at each 30 day increment, but this first 30 felt kinda big, so there it is. I am keeping a daily written journal, and while it's not possible for me to post all those entries now, when I return, I will take the time to post excerpts from each day along with pictures, either here or at trailjournals.com.
14 May 2009
almost a month
Gracie & I are hanging out at Uncle Johnny's Nolichucky River Hostel/Outfitter for the afternoon. Doing laundry (Gracie's not so good at that), resupplying, and resting a bit before heading out again this afternoon. Showers have taken on a whole new category of delight! We've had great weather since Hot Springs, and my temporary fix to the broken hiking pole held up well, and even allowed me to pitch the tarp. Have had some great views in between the sections where all we can see is surrounding forest.
Tomorrow marks one month of trail life. I've been reflecting on what has happened in that time, milestones and such, and my next post will cover that. Until then, I get logged off the computer shortly, so know that all is well, and we're enjoying trail life. Though I'm really missing my friends today.
Peace,
Kelli & Gracie
Tomorrow marks one month of trail life. I've been reflecting on what has happened in that time, milestones and such, and my next post will cover that. Until then, I get logged off the computer shortly, so know that all is well, and we're enjoying trail life. Though I'm really missing my friends today.
Peace,
Kelli & Gracie
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