[A year ago April 15th, I set out to hike the length of the Appalachian Trail, northbound from Georgia to Maine, with my 7 year old dog, Gracie. Almost nightly, I wrote journal entries about what I was experiencing. The demands of trail life with a dog precluded me from posting these entries during the hike. I've chosen to post excerpts to mark the anniversary of this life-altering experience. Enjoy the journey, I certainly did.]
04 May 2009 - Day 20, Mile 200.2 - Derrick Knob Shelter -> Mt. Collins Shelter
Less rain today. Clingman's Dome no view due to clouds. Shelter not as crowded (yet) tonight. Some sprinkles off & on since I got here, but mostly clear. Pittsburgh tried for a hitch at the road along the trail near Clingman's Dome. I hope he made it into Gatlinburg. Hurried through my dinner and 200 mile celebratory Snickers because of the rain.
Cool sights on the trail today - primeval, primordial, ancient forest. A mattress of peat off the trail. Still have only 1 pr. of dry socks, but things are looking up, weather wise. I don't think there will be a zero day in the Smokies with the weather like it's been. [need to keep moving to stay warm]. There will be an opportunity for that later. It's been good hiking with Pitt, but I'm ready to test my mettle. If I hoof it, I can be out of the Smokies in 2 days or less. Two nights seems more reasonable [than 3]. I have 2 dinners left, tough I could stretch it to three by having a savory breakfast for supper. Pretty dull, though.
Left out of Silers Bald shelter and was passed by a couple of southbound hikers. Just after, I saw a large white bird ahead on the trail. I followed it, then got out my camera for some snaps. [It looked like a seagull, but couldn't have been.] I got too close at one point and it seemed to try to fly away but ended up in the bushes off the west side of the trail. Wonder what kind of bird it was. It was really cool to see it walk along the trail ahead of me, as if it were leading me.
Stopped a few times today waiting for Pitt & just listened to the quiet of the forest. Hiked truly alone for the first time this evening after Pitt left the trail to hitch into Gatlinburg and I was never really frightened or worried. I was more careful with my footing, though.
200 miles, 2 faceplants (1 today) and 1 banana flip. I hope Gracie is healthy, warm, and dry. Interesting how in a few steps, the landscape or forest changes. There was a noticeable change upon entering North Carolina [from Georgia] and also getting to a certain [elevation] nearing Clingmans Dome in the Smokies. The variety of terrain is fascinating.
Things I miss on the trail - gluten free pancakes, easy contact with friends.
Who knows what tomorrow brings - my first day solo hiking.
Retrospective: Can't believe I haven't included this story. The night we stayed at Russell Field shelter, a bear shredded one of Pitt's t-shirts he'd left hanging on a laundry line. The rest of his clothes that were hanging up got soaked. So, on top of his already heavy pack, he had an extra 10+ lbs. of wet laundry. When he heard the siren call of the cars traveling to/from Clingman's Dome, he couldn't resist the opportunity for a warm, dry hotel room and laundry. Can't say I blame him. He tried to talk me into joining him, but ultimately, I hadn't budgeted for a hotel room in the Smokies, and was more interested in getting through the park and back to my baby dawg.
Met NOBO Manimal at the shelter tonight.
03 May 2010
Adventures on the Appalachian Trail (5/3/09)
[A year ago April 15th, I set out to hike the length of the Appalachian Trail, northbound from Georgia to Maine, with my 7 year old dog, Gracie. Almost nightly, I wrote journal entries about what I was experiencing. The demands of trail life with a dog precluded me from posting these entries during the hike. I've chosen to post excerpts to mark the anniversary of this life-altering experience. Enjoy the journey, I certainly did.]
03 May 2009 - Day 19, Mile 186.7 - Russell Field Shelter -> Derrick Knob Shelter
Doubly glad that Gracie is not here for this part of the trip. Cold and wet all day in the Smokies. Mid 50s + high winds, mostly light rain, but practically non stop from 8:30 am - 3 pm. It is work enough keeping myself warm. I don't know how I would tend to her without getting the sleeping bag soaked. Down to one pair of dry socks. I do have shirt alternatives for tomorrow. If the weather is similar, tomorrow will be a psychological challenge.
This was a short mileage day, but when I got here, I was done. Soaked to the bone and ready to get warm & dry, not that easy to do in a crowded shelter. Some challenging climbs and descents - mostly because of the wet trail. Slipped a few times, but caught myself before a fall or injury. 50+ mph gusts of wind and rain as we crested Rocky Top and Thunderbird mountains. Exhilarating fun, but that was early in the day, before I was completely soaked. Pittsburgh was a good hiking buddy again - he wore more layers, though, and at the end of the day I was having trouble keeping warm so I headed on to the shelter while he took a break.
Earthworms 1.5 feet long were out in force after the rain. Full house of wet hikers at the shelter tonight. Will hike in damp socks tomorrow. There comes a point in the day when I stop caring where I step - how deep the mud or water is - because it just doesn't matter anymore. Still, all day with wet feet is a challenge. Hoping for 14 miles tomorrow, but in the cold rain that will be tough. Nice folks here tonight. People are starting to say I need a trail name by now, but still don't have one.
Walking through the Smokies alone this afternoon was otherworldly. For a few minutes the wind and rain both stopped and it was so still and quiet with the mist and clouds - the smoke of the Smokies - visible all around. I stopped briefly, just to listen to the silence. As I describe it now, I can feel myself relax from the inside out. Two more hikers just arrived (it's after dark) and it looks like they'll have to tent. I hear the chance of rain is less for tomorrow. I hope that's right. I am grateful to be in the shelter instead of the tarp. Two days of this would be impossible with the dawg.
03 May 2009 - Day 19, Mile 186.7 - Russell Field Shelter -> Derrick Knob Shelter
Doubly glad that Gracie is not here for this part of the trip. Cold and wet all day in the Smokies. Mid 50s + high winds, mostly light rain, but practically non stop from 8:30 am - 3 pm. It is work enough keeping myself warm. I don't know how I would tend to her without getting the sleeping bag soaked. Down to one pair of dry socks. I do have shirt alternatives for tomorrow. If the weather is similar, tomorrow will be a psychological challenge.
This was a short mileage day, but when I got here, I was done. Soaked to the bone and ready to get warm & dry, not that easy to do in a crowded shelter. Some challenging climbs and descents - mostly because of the wet trail. Slipped a few times, but caught myself before a fall or injury. 50+ mph gusts of wind and rain as we crested Rocky Top and Thunderbird mountains. Exhilarating fun, but that was early in the day, before I was completely soaked. Pittsburgh was a good hiking buddy again - he wore more layers, though, and at the end of the day I was having trouble keeping warm so I headed on to the shelter while he took a break.
Earthworms 1.5 feet long were out in force after the rain. Full house of wet hikers at the shelter tonight. Will hike in damp socks tomorrow. There comes a point in the day when I stop caring where I step - how deep the mud or water is - because it just doesn't matter anymore. Still, all day with wet feet is a challenge. Hoping for 14 miles tomorrow, but in the cold rain that will be tough. Nice folks here tonight. People are starting to say I need a trail name by now, but still don't have one.
Walking through the Smokies alone this afternoon was otherworldly. For a few minutes the wind and rain both stopped and it was so still and quiet with the mist and clouds - the smoke of the Smokies - visible all around. I stopped briefly, just to listen to the silence. As I describe it now, I can feel myself relax from the inside out. Two more hikers just arrived (it's after dark) and it looks like they'll have to tent. I hear the chance of rain is less for tomorrow. I hope that's right. I am grateful to be in the shelter instead of the tarp. Two days of this would be impossible with the dawg.
02 May 2010
Adventures on the Appalachian Trail (05/02/2009)
[A year ago April 15th, I set out to hike the length of the Appalachian Trail, northbound from Georgia to Maine, with my 7 year old dog, Gracie. Almost nightly, I wrote journal entries about what I was experiencing. The demands of trail life with a dog precluded me from posting these entries during the hike. I've chosen to post excerpts to mark the anniversary of this life-altering experience. Enjoy the journey, I certainly did.]
02 May 2009 - Day 18, Mile 177.5 - Fontana Village -> Russell Field Shelter
Hiked 10:35am to 6:45ish. Stopped for dinner at Mollie's Ridge Shelter then made like a fake nail and pressed on. Hiking with Pittsburgh, which is nice. I hike faster than him, so stop & wait on him every now and then. Guidebook mentions blueberries at Spence Field, will check that out tomorrow. May be too early in the season, though. [Definitely too early!]. Most everything in my bag stayed dry except the sleeping bag. Hot Springs [next town stop] means a dry sack for my sleeping bag. It may be a chilly night for my wet feet, dang it. [My down sleeping bag loses it's insulating properties when wet. Not good when it's in the upper 30s at night.] Everything else stayed pretty dry.
Pittsburgh saved me from a night at the Fontana Hilton with drunken party people by sharing his room at the Lodge with me last night. We had a good time hanging out and eating good food. It was interesting hiking (sort of) with him. [Up until now, and for a majority of my thru, I walked alone, my main companion being Gracie. On the second half of the hike, I had hiking partners
in the sense that we planned to end up at the same place each evening, and met up several times during the day, but for the most part, my walking was in solitude.] For the first few hours, I kept stopping to make sure he was still behind me - basically not letting him get out of my sight. At first I thought it was out of concern for him [really?, this was pretty ridiculous of me], then I realized I liked knowing he was back there. I felt more secure and safe on the trail with him there [and less lonely].
I hit Mollie's Ridge at 4:30 and wanted to keep going. Cooked some dinner while I waited for Pitt, then made the call to go further. Plan is for Siler's Bald Shelter tomorrow. With an early start it's doable.
B - Resort buffet, 3 eggs, 3 bacon, 3 sausage, grits, hashbrowns, fruit, coffee, orange juice
L - snacking on trail mix
D - vegetarian chili, rice and nutritional yeast
Dessert - hot cocoa over granola (thought of this while hiking, a truly inspired hiker treat!)
02 May 2009 - Day 18, Mile 177.5 - Fontana Village -> Russell Field Shelter
Hiked 10:35am to 6:45ish. Stopped for dinner at Mollie's Ridge Shelter then made like a fake nail and pressed on. Hiking with Pittsburgh, which is nice. I hike faster than him, so stop & wait on him every now and then. Guidebook mentions blueberries at Spence Field, will check that out tomorrow. May be too early in the season, though. [Definitely too early!]. Most everything in my bag stayed dry except the sleeping bag. Hot Springs [next town stop] means a dry sack for my sleeping bag. It may be a chilly night for my wet feet, dang it. [My down sleeping bag loses it's insulating properties when wet. Not good when it's in the upper 30s at night.] Everything else stayed pretty dry.
Pittsburgh saved me from a night at the Fontana Hilton with drunken party people by sharing his room at the Lodge with me last night. We had a good time hanging out and eating good food. It was interesting hiking (sort of) with him. [Up until now, and for a majority of my thru, I walked alone, my main companion being Gracie. On the second half of the hike, I had hiking partners
in the sense that we planned to end up at the same place each evening, and met up several times during the day, but for the most part, my walking was in solitude.] For the first few hours, I kept stopping to make sure he was still behind me - basically not letting him get out of my sight. At first I thought it was out of concern for him [really?, this was pretty ridiculous of me], then I realized I liked knowing he was back there. I felt more secure and safe on the trail with him there [and less lonely].
I hit Mollie's Ridge at 4:30 and wanted to keep going. Cooked some dinner while I waited for Pitt, then made the call to go further. Plan is for Siler's Bald Shelter tomorrow. With an early start it's doable.
B - Resort buffet, 3 eggs, 3 bacon, 3 sausage, grits, hashbrowns, fruit, coffee, orange juice
L - snacking on trail mix
D - vegetarian chili, rice and nutritional yeast
Dessert - hot cocoa over granola (thought of this while hiking, a truly inspired hiker treat!)
01 May 2010
Adventures on the Appalachian Trail (5/01/2009)
[A year ago April 15th, I set out to hike the length of the Appalachian Trail, northbound from Georgia to Maine, with my 7 year old dog, Gracie. Almost nightly, I wrote journal entries about what I was experiencing. The demands of trail life with a dog precluded me from posting these entries during the hike. I've chosen to post excerpts to mark the anniversary of this life-altering experience. Enjoy the journey, I certainly did.]
01 May 2009 - Day 17, Mile 163.7 - Fontana Dam Shelter -> Fontana Village
Zero day at Fontana Dam/Fontana Village [first zero of the hike]. Got up just in time to get packed up before the rain began. Made breakfast in the rain and moved under the shelter overhang to eat. Rushed to get laundry done & get back to the marina to meet Lida, Gracie's boarder. Almost missed her at the rendezvous point because I was in the wrong place. Fortunately, she ran into Nordic, who knew where I was. Made some quick decisions on resupply and sent the rest with Lida to retrieve on the other end of the Smokies. Sent postcards to David & John and Eddie to thank them for their support and yummy/useful care packages. Then enjoyed my zero at the Fontana Village Resort. [Was actually quite glum and apprehensive without my lovebug Gracie Ann - best hiking partner ever and faithful security blanket]
Ran into Pittsburgh while I wad lunch and we hung out the rest of the day. Had a pulled pork/coleslaw sandwich, a margarita, quesadilla nachos, a beer, then creme brulee. [that was lunch and dinner. not one completely insane meal] All with a great view of the Smokies, where many of our hiking buddies set out today. Tomorrow will be soon enough to hike. I needed some time to adjust to existing without Gracie attached to my hip and this was good for it. Eddie had sent a wonderfully generous gift card, so dinner was on her. Pittsburgh generously shared his lodge room with me, so it was deluxe accommodations for the night. Tomorrow is breakfast buffet, a visit to the dam, and then back to the trail, most likely in the rain [weather today is sunny and delightful]. The rest is good for me. I spent some time in a rocking chair on the general store porch. The food bag is bulging again. There is a Mini Cooper convention at the resort. Popular place for motoring enthusiasts because of the Tail of the Dragon - 318 curves in 11 miles of road.
Hiking makes me crave fat & sugar. [will have a hard time recovering from this post-hike]
Retrospective: Pittsburgh was the first big example of how the right thing or person kept showing up just when I needed it along the trail. Without his good-humored company on that first day without Gracie, I would have been a wreck and hiking would have been much harder. He really was a lifeline that day, and the days to come and I am grateful he was there.
01 May 2009 - Day 17, Mile 163.7 - Fontana Dam Shelter -> Fontana Village
Zero day at Fontana Dam/Fontana Village [first zero of the hike]. Got up just in time to get packed up before the rain began. Made breakfast in the rain and moved under the shelter overhang to eat. Rushed to get laundry done & get back to the marina to meet Lida, Gracie's boarder. Almost missed her at the rendezvous point because I was in the wrong place. Fortunately, she ran into Nordic, who knew where I was. Made some quick decisions on resupply and sent the rest with Lida to retrieve on the other end of the Smokies. Sent postcards to David & John and Eddie to thank them for their support and yummy/useful care packages. Then enjoyed my zero at the Fontana Village Resort. [Was actually quite glum and apprehensive without my lovebug Gracie Ann - best hiking partner ever and faithful security blanket]
Ran into Pittsburgh while I wad lunch and we hung out the rest of the day. Had a pulled pork/coleslaw sandwich, a margarita, quesadilla nachos, a beer, then creme brulee. [that was lunch and dinner. not one completely insane meal] All with a great view of the Smokies, where many of our hiking buddies set out today. Tomorrow will be soon enough to hike. I needed some time to adjust to existing without Gracie attached to my hip and this was good for it. Eddie had sent a wonderfully generous gift card, so dinner was on her. Pittsburgh generously shared his lodge room with me, so it was deluxe accommodations for the night. Tomorrow is breakfast buffet, a visit to the dam, and then back to the trail, most likely in the rain [weather today is sunny and delightful]. The rest is good for me. I spent some time in a rocking chair on the general store porch. The food bag is bulging again. There is a Mini Cooper convention at the resort. Popular place for motoring enthusiasts because of the Tail of the Dragon - 318 curves in 11 miles of road.
Hiking makes me crave fat & sugar. [will have a hard time recovering from this post-hike]
Retrospective: Pittsburgh was the first big example of how the right thing or person kept showing up just when I needed it along the trail. Without his good-humored company on that first day without Gracie, I would have been a wreck and hiking would have been much harder. He really was a lifeline that day, and the days to come and I am grateful he was there.
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