[A year ago April 15th, I set out to hike the length of the Appalachian Trail, northbound from Georgia to Maine, with my 7 year old dog, Gracie. Almost nightly, I wrote journal entries about what I was experiencing. The demands of trail life with a dog precluded me from posting these entries during the hike. I've chosen to post excerpts to mark the anniversary of this life-altering experience. Enjoy the journey, I certainly did.]
30 April 2009 - Day 16, Mile 163.7 - Solo stealth camp above Stecoah Gap -> Fontana Dam Shelter
Was able to call dad today and wish him happy birthday. We had a good visit, but it was tough because he sounded emotional when we said goodbye. He's soft-hearted, but doesn't often let it show. Tenting tonight at the "Fontana Hilton" because there are some partiers at the shelter and I don't want Gracie to bite any drunken revelers or have my sleep disturbed! I'm not particularly happy about it but after a shower, hearty meal, and lots of chocolate and advil, I'm ok. I'm beginning to think I can get up and do this all over again, but I'm also glad to be taking a zero tomorrow. My food back will actually be empty after breakfast.
This is truly a nice shelter, with flush toilets, sinks, and showers just up the hill. Perhaps I'll sleep in the shelter tomorrow night. Actually having to wear the earplugs in the tent because of all the tent talkers nearby, plus the noise from bugs.
B - rice cereal + almonds & raisins
L - hummus, asian soup, snickers
D - lentils, veggies & rice, snickers (which I got in exchange for some fuel), + some "fun size" candy bars other hikers who were leaving the trail were giving away
[Retrospective] The guidebook mentioned a spring not far from the road crossing at Stecoah Gap. I stopped in there to make breakfast, and planned to get more water, but couldn't find the spring. A group of birders arrived while I was having breakfast, and several of them offered me water and some other snacks. People are so nice and generous when they find out you're thru-hiking. It's pretty amazing. Stopped in at Brown Fork Gap shelter for lunch and to get water again. Later that day, I discovered the water filter drain tube had come unseated from the filter cartridge. This explained why the filter was working much faster than usual, and why Gracie & I would start experiencing the symptoms of Giardia a few weeks later as we neared Damascus. Some people will drink water straight from a spring. I know Gracie & I are both susceptible to Giardia because we'd both had it at least once before the hike, so I always filtered water for both of us. Being a dog, Gracie sometimes drank from streams, but I tried to limit her from doing so, and would offer her water every hour or so when I would drink.
30 April 2010
29 April 2010
Adventures on the Appalachian Trail (4/29/2009)
[A year ago April 15th, I set out to hike the length of the Appalachian Trail, northbound from Georgia to Maine, with my 7 year old dog, Gracie. Almost nightly, I wrote journal entries about what I was experiencing. The demands of trail life with a dog precluded me from posting these entries during the hike. I've chosen to post excerpts to mark the anniversary of this life-altering experience. Enjoy the journey, I certainly did.]
29 April 2009 - Day 15, Mile 148.6 - Nantahala Outdoor Center -> Solo stealth camp above Stecoah Gap
I'm not entirely sure where I am, but I'm pretty sure I'm on a ridge above Stecoah Gap. Can hear a road (NC 143?) below. We could possibly have hiked the remaining 3.5 or so miles to Brown Fork Gap shelter, but the weather was looking threatening around 6pm and I didn't want to push it. This still gets us pretty close to Fontana. We're keeping a much better pace since I'm carrying Gracie's weight and she seems tired, but not unreasonably so. I think she's due for her week vacation while I hike the Smokies. I have some concerns about hiking without her. She brings me lots of security and confidence. I appreciate that she reacts to some people and I feel safe when she's around.
Sprinkles started at 8:15pm and there's thunder in the distance. Gracie seems a little nervous. I trust we'll be OK. [This attitude would shift later in the hike after some scary brushes with thunder/lightning]
Thoughts from today: This is like doing a (half-iron) triathlon every day! When I'm hiking, the sound of my backpack shifting as I move sounds like a saddle on a horse - I am my own beast of burden. Showers, laundry, and town food are nice, but I enjoy hiking, the physical exertion of it, the constant movement from place to place. It feeds my nomadic spirit, yet I am at the same time glad I have a home and a community of support. With that kind of love and support behind us, we can achieve our highest and best dreams. We can do great things - things that are great for us, whatever our goals and dreams are. People who love us want to see us succeed.
B - brown rice (baby) cereal w/apples, almonds & raisins, mocha java, egg, sausage & cheese, coke
L - instant hummus, Clif Builder Bar, potato chips
D - aloo choley, rice, snicker bar & chips [the only Indian meal I ate on the hike, the rest ended up in hiker boxes. This one was good, and I took a picture of it with my cell phone & sent it to Emily, but I never really had an appetite for Indian food after hiking all day. Tip: pack food that you always like to eat. I could survive on oatmeal, brown sugar, peanut butter, chocolate, instant refried beans/rice, and gluten-free pasta dishes and wouldn't stray far from that in the future.]
Retrospective: Met Penny & Tron at the restaurant at the NOC. Good night's rest along the river, no bears or other animals, and Eric, who was going to try to find my campsite, never showed. Had breakfast at the restuarant before heading out, and left info to forward my resupply box to Hot Springs since I got enough provisions to get us to Fontana: a couple cans of dog food - the only time Gracie would eat cheap dog food on the trail; some Gerber brown rice cereal, almonds & raisins. That night, Gracie tried to bolt from the tarp - the first and only time she showed that behavior. I was fast asleep, but had heard coyotes calling earlier in the night, so am guessing that's what she was after. I don't think I had her leashed to me, but I woke up and grabbed her and yanked her back into the tarp without even thinking as soon as I felt her move. Then made sure she was leashed to me. Scary moment. It was a long time before I let her sleep untethered again. I am a paranoid doggie mom.
29 April 2009 - Day 15, Mile 148.6 - Nantahala Outdoor Center -> Solo stealth camp above Stecoah Gap
I'm not entirely sure where I am, but I'm pretty sure I'm on a ridge above Stecoah Gap. Can hear a road (NC 143?) below. We could possibly have hiked the remaining 3.5 or so miles to Brown Fork Gap shelter, but the weather was looking threatening around 6pm and I didn't want to push it. This still gets us pretty close to Fontana. We're keeping a much better pace since I'm carrying Gracie's weight and she seems tired, but not unreasonably so. I think she's due for her week vacation while I hike the Smokies. I have some concerns about hiking without her. She brings me lots of security and confidence. I appreciate that she reacts to some people and I feel safe when she's around.
Sprinkles started at 8:15pm and there's thunder in the distance. Gracie seems a little nervous. I trust we'll be OK. [This attitude would shift later in the hike after some scary brushes with thunder/lightning]
Thoughts from today: This is like doing a (half-iron) triathlon every day! When I'm hiking, the sound of my backpack shifting as I move sounds like a saddle on a horse - I am my own beast of burden. Showers, laundry, and town food are nice, but I enjoy hiking, the physical exertion of it, the constant movement from place to place. It feeds my nomadic spirit, yet I am at the same time glad I have a home and a community of support. With that kind of love and support behind us, we can achieve our highest and best dreams. We can do great things - things that are great for us, whatever our goals and dreams are. People who love us want to see us succeed.
B - brown rice (baby) cereal w/apples, almonds & raisins, mocha java, egg, sausage & cheese, coke
L - instant hummus, Clif Builder Bar, potato chips
D - aloo choley, rice, snicker bar & chips [the only Indian meal I ate on the hike, the rest ended up in hiker boxes. This one was good, and I took a picture of it with my cell phone & sent it to Emily, but I never really had an appetite for Indian food after hiking all day. Tip: pack food that you always like to eat. I could survive on oatmeal, brown sugar, peanut butter, chocolate, instant refried beans/rice, and gluten-free pasta dishes and wouldn't stray far from that in the future.]
Retrospective: Met Penny & Tron at the restaurant at the NOC. Good night's rest along the river, no bears or other animals, and Eric, who was going to try to find my campsite, never showed. Had breakfast at the restuarant before heading out, and left info to forward my resupply box to Hot Springs since I got enough provisions to get us to Fontana: a couple cans of dog food - the only time Gracie would eat cheap dog food on the trail; some Gerber brown rice cereal, almonds & raisins. That night, Gracie tried to bolt from the tarp - the first and only time she showed that behavior. I was fast asleep, but had heard coyotes calling earlier in the night, so am guessing that's what she was after. I don't think I had her leashed to me, but I woke up and grabbed her and yanked her back into the tarp without even thinking as soon as I felt her move. Then made sure she was leashed to me. Scary moment. It was a long time before I let her sleep untethered again. I am a paranoid doggie mom.
28 April 2010
Adventures on the Appalachian Trail (4/28/09)
[A year ago April 15th, I set out to hike the length of the Appalachian Trail, northbound from Georgia to Maine, with my 7 year old dog, Gracie. Almost nightly, I wrote journal entries about what I was experiencing. The demands of trail life with a dog precluded me from posting these entries during the hike. I've chosen to post excerpts to mark the anniversary of this life-altering experience. Enjoy the journey, I certainly did.]
28 April 2009 - Day 14, Mile 135.0 - Wesser Bald Shelter -> Nantahala Outdoor Center
Relaxing day at the NOC. Took a shower, had a cheeseburger, fries, and beer (Gracie got the bun) with NH Mike, Pittsburg, and Geoff. Met Lone Wolf. Gracie got to swim in the Nantahala and almost got swept down the rapids when I threw a stick too far into the current. Fortunately she's a strong swimmer and problem solver and had the sense to abandon the stick and make for the shore while I called for her frantically. I got to the NOC in advance of the box I had forwarded from Franklin, so I walked a mile to the convenience store to restock a few things and will set out tomorrow for Fontana Dam.
Trying a couple of new things tonight - stealth camping along the river near the NOC to save $. It is inconceivable to backtrack to the nearest shelter, and too expensive to get a pet-friendly cabin. I'm also sleeping with the food bag in the tent. Seems too close to civilization for bears to be a concern, plus the trash cans at the NOC are not bear-proof. Eric may end up here tonight, too. I'm a little wary of him, having only met him on the shuttle to the outfitter in Franklin, but I'm trusting that most hikers, especially thru-hikers, are on the up & up. Gracie never really warmed up to him, though, and I pay attention to that, plus, Eric knows Gracie can bite. I'll try to get as far as I can tomorrow, it's supposed to be a tough day. Eight miles uphill out of the NOC. Plan to carry Gracie's pack most of the way to Fontana to make tracks and give her feet a break. A tick jumped on me tonight as we sat at the river bank, but I didn't find any others on her.
28 April 2009 - Day 14, Mile 135.0 - Wesser Bald Shelter -> Nantahala Outdoor Center
Relaxing day at the NOC. Took a shower, had a cheeseburger, fries, and beer (Gracie got the bun) with NH Mike, Pittsburg, and Geoff. Met Lone Wolf. Gracie got to swim in the Nantahala and almost got swept down the rapids when I threw a stick too far into the current. Fortunately she's a strong swimmer and problem solver and had the sense to abandon the stick and make for the shore while I called for her frantically. I got to the NOC in advance of the box I had forwarded from Franklin, so I walked a mile to the convenience store to restock a few things and will set out tomorrow for Fontana Dam.
Trying a couple of new things tonight - stealth camping along the river near the NOC to save $. It is inconceivable to backtrack to the nearest shelter, and too expensive to get a pet-friendly cabin. I'm also sleeping with the food bag in the tent. Seems too close to civilization for bears to be a concern, plus the trash cans at the NOC are not bear-proof. Eric may end up here tonight, too. I'm a little wary of him, having only met him on the shuttle to the outfitter in Franklin, but I'm trusting that most hikers, especially thru-hikers, are on the up & up. Gracie never really warmed up to him, though, and I pay attention to that, plus, Eric knows Gracie can bite. I'll try to get as far as I can tomorrow, it's supposed to be a tough day. Eight miles uphill out of the NOC. Plan to carry Gracie's pack most of the way to Fontana to make tracks and give her feet a break. A tick jumped on me tonight as we sat at the river bank, but I didn't find any others on her.
27 April 2010
Adventures on the Appalachian Trail (4/27/09)
[A year ago April 15th, I set out to hike the length of the Appalachian Trail, northbound from Georgia to Maine, with my 7 year old dog, Gracie. Almost nightly, I wrote journal entries about what I was experiencing. The demands of trail life with a dog precluded me from posting these entries during the hike. I've chosen to post excerpts to mark the anniversary of this life-altering experience. Enjoy the journey, I certainly did.]
27 April 2009 - Day 13, Mile 129.3 - Bartram Trail Intersection -> Wesser Bald Shelter
Remembered a dream I had at Rock Gap Shelter a few nights ago - Gracie & I peeked out of the shelter in the middle of the night and there were about 15 pairs of eyes in a line watching us. They were mostly small, like raccoon eyes, but there was one big animal's eyes, which I thought was a bear. The eyes were all glowing blue in the light of my headlamp. Gracie saw them and pulled on the leash and went into alert mode. I calmly pulled her back to the shelter and we went back to sleep.
Great views from Wayah Bald lookout this morning as we stopped in there for breakfast. It was really windy and I tried to cook breakfast in the lookout. It was a challenge with the wind and the bugs flying about. I could see a fire burning in the distance, controlled burn? NOC tomorrow. Hope my package has arrived, if not, I guess I'll stay on a day & hang out, check up on email and stuff.
Long day today. Made better time when I took Gracie's pack. Maybe I should just plan to carry all her stuff in the future. I may try that from NOC to Fontana Dam to see if the cumulative effort still tires her out.
Caught up to Geoff, Pittsburgh, and NH Mike today, and glad to be sharing the shelter with them. We're planning to have cheeseburgers at the NOC tomorrow. NH Mike saw two bears today and was about an hour ahead of me on the trail. Raspberry & Raindancer must have gone on to the NOC. I forgot to get a check for Lida (Gracie's boarder for the Smokies) from the bounce box in Franklin. Will have to get cash from an ATM I guess. Warmer tonight, that's nice. I'm happier with my improved hygiene and still have lots of food. Will have Lida hold my Fontana package until I leave the Smokies, I think.
27 April 2009 - Day 13, Mile 129.3 - Bartram Trail Intersection -> Wesser Bald Shelter
Remembered a dream I had at Rock Gap Shelter a few nights ago - Gracie & I peeked out of the shelter in the middle of the night and there were about 15 pairs of eyes in a line watching us. They were mostly small, like raccoon eyes, but there was one big animal's eyes, which I thought was a bear. The eyes were all glowing blue in the light of my headlamp. Gracie saw them and pulled on the leash and went into alert mode. I calmly pulled her back to the shelter and we went back to sleep.
Great views from Wayah Bald lookout this morning as we stopped in there for breakfast. It was really windy and I tried to cook breakfast in the lookout. It was a challenge with the wind and the bugs flying about. I could see a fire burning in the distance, controlled burn? NOC tomorrow. Hope my package has arrived, if not, I guess I'll stay on a day & hang out, check up on email and stuff.
Long day today. Made better time when I took Gracie's pack. Maybe I should just plan to carry all her stuff in the future. I may try that from NOC to Fontana Dam to see if the cumulative effort still tires her out.
Caught up to Geoff, Pittsburgh, and NH Mike today, and glad to be sharing the shelter with them. We're planning to have cheeseburgers at the NOC tomorrow. NH Mike saw two bears today and was about an hour ahead of me on the trail. Raspberry & Raindancer must have gone on to the NOC. I forgot to get a check for Lida (Gracie's boarder for the Smokies) from the bounce box in Franklin. Will have to get cash from an ATM I guess. Warmer tonight, that's nice. I'm happier with my improved hygiene and still have lots of food. Will have Lida hold my Fontana package until I leave the Smokies, I think.
26 April 2010
Adventures on the Appalachian Trail (4/26/09)
[A year ago April 15th, I set out to hike the length of the Appalachian Trail, northbound from Georgia to Maine, with my 7 year old dog, Gracie. Almost nightly, I wrote journal entries about what I was experiencing. The demands of trail life with a dog precluded me from posting these entries during the hike. I've chosen to post excerpts to mark the anniversary of this life-altering experience. Enjoy the journey, I certainly did.]
26 April 2009 - Day 12, Mile 115.8 - Winding Stair Gap/Franklin, NC -> Bartram Trail Intersection
The trees are blaze/burnt orange outside my tent from the sundown light. Getting town chores done was hectic, but I got everything done and caught up a little on internet stuff. Nice to be clean and have clean clothes. Already have my next two showers mapped out! Don't know what I'll do (for a shower) in the Smokies, though. Rathskellers (Franklin coffeehouse) was good and relaxing, but I spent most of my time there glued to the computer. Glad I got insect wipes and antibacterial wipes to help with the bugs on Gracie and my personal hygiene. I feel better tonight for having rinsed my legs and put my feet in the creek, and clean up. I do prefer to be clean, though now I know I can handle being stinky.
Sort of camping solo tonight. NH Mike is up the hill, but I'm essentially on my own. The NOC is very close, only two days, so I should get there on the 28th, right on schedule. Lots of people ask me about hiking alone - did I choose to? and the answer is yes. Although with Gracie, I don't feel particularly alone, or at least vulnerable or unsafe. Making this trek is very much a personal goal and journey. Having spent the majority of my life tied (by choice in most cases) to the goals, schedules, and interests of others, sometimes, but not always, to my benefit, and sometimes for an expedient benefit that had later repercussions on my sense of self and well-being, this journey is a rite of passage for me. This is where I take control of my life and decide daily how I want to spend my time Today for instance, I set out from Winding Stair Gap with an idea of my destination - Siler Bald Shelter. When I got there at 1pm, it was too early to stop. I took a long lunch, wrote a brief letter, then set out with another general goal (Wayah Bald) but also thinking I might want to camp solo. Turns out I'm not really solo here, but this was a great stopping point. Still, I know if I were hiking with someone else, there would be constant negotiating of when I where to stop, take breaks, and so on, and I just don't want to do that yet. I'm quite content to hike at a comfortable pace for Gracie & me and see where we end up each day. I do feel more confident and relaxed after the break in Franklin and being back on or close to the mail drop schedule. A schedule I created for myself and can follow or not as I choose.
Wayah - Cherokee for Wolf. Knowing I was headed to Wayah Bald I felt more comfortable about camping solo. Is the wolf my totem? I don't know. Need/want to pick up a book - Blue Highways or Essential Mystics.
Gracie the Wonder Dog/Homeland security system
2 parts watchdog (bark & bite)
1 part pack mule (unless it's in the 80s)
1 part bedwarmer (must add at least 10 degrees to the warmth of the sleeping bag, bless her!)
1 part mountain goat
2 parts goofball
Her terror alert is at an elevated level on the trail. Most people I talk to think this is a good thing. We heard gunshots this evening when we got to camp and as we approached the campsite, but they've been stopped for a long time now. They sounded pretty far off and I wasn't overly concerned, just noticing.
Loving the new insoles I picked up in Franklin (thanks Susan L.!). I May need to watch for new friction spots over the next week, but so far so good. Didn't have to tape or bandage the existing blisters today, so that was great!
26 April 2009 - Day 12, Mile 115.8 - Winding Stair Gap/Franklin, NC -> Bartram Trail Intersection
The trees are blaze/burnt orange outside my tent from the sundown light. Getting town chores done was hectic, but I got everything done and caught up a little on internet stuff. Nice to be clean and have clean clothes. Already have my next two showers mapped out! Don't know what I'll do (for a shower) in the Smokies, though. Rathskellers (Franklin coffeehouse) was good and relaxing, but I spent most of my time there glued to the computer. Glad I got insect wipes and antibacterial wipes to help with the bugs on Gracie and my personal hygiene. I feel better tonight for having rinsed my legs and put my feet in the creek, and clean up. I do prefer to be clean, though now I know I can handle being stinky.
Sort of camping solo tonight. NH Mike is up the hill, but I'm essentially on my own. The NOC is very close, only two days, so I should get there on the 28th, right on schedule. Lots of people ask me about hiking alone - did I choose to? and the answer is yes. Although with Gracie, I don't feel particularly alone, or at least vulnerable or unsafe. Making this trek is very much a personal goal and journey. Having spent the majority of my life tied (by choice in most cases) to the goals, schedules, and interests of others, sometimes, but not always, to my benefit, and sometimes for an expedient benefit that had later repercussions on my sense of self and well-being, this journey is a rite of passage for me. This is where I take control of my life and decide daily how I want to spend my time Today for instance, I set out from Winding Stair Gap with an idea of my destination - Siler Bald Shelter. When I got there at 1pm, it was too early to stop. I took a long lunch, wrote a brief letter, then set out with another general goal (Wayah Bald) but also thinking I might want to camp solo. Turns out I'm not really solo here, but this was a great stopping point. Still, I know if I were hiking with someone else, there would be constant negotiating of when I where to stop, take breaks, and so on, and I just don't want to do that yet. I'm quite content to hike at a comfortable pace for Gracie & me and see where we end up each day. I do feel more confident and relaxed after the break in Franklin and being back on or close to the mail drop schedule. A schedule I created for myself and can follow or not as I choose.
Wayah - Cherokee for Wolf. Knowing I was headed to Wayah Bald I felt more comfortable about camping solo. Is the wolf my totem? I don't know. Need/want to pick up a book - Blue Highways or Essential Mystics.
Gracie the Wonder Dog/Homeland security system
2 parts watchdog (bark & bite)
1 part pack mule (unless it's in the 80s)
1 part bedwarmer (must add at least 10 degrees to the warmth of the sleeping bag, bless her!)
1 part mountain goat
2 parts goofball
Her terror alert is at an elevated level on the trail. Most people I talk to think this is a good thing. We heard gunshots this evening when we got to camp and as we approached the campsite, but they've been stopped for a long time now. They sounded pretty far off and I wasn't overly concerned, just noticing.
Loving the new insoles I picked up in Franklin (thanks Susan L.!). I May need to watch for new friction spots over the next week, but so far so good. Didn't have to tape or bandage the existing blisters today, so that was great!
25 April 2010
Adventures on the Appalachian Trail (4/25/09)
[A year ago April 15th, I set out to hike the length of the Appalachian Trail, northbound from Georgia to Maine, with my 7 year old dog, Gracie. Almost nightly, I wrote journal entries about what I was experiencing. The demands of trail life with a dog precluded me from posting these entries during the hike. I've chosen to post excerpts to mark the anniversary of this life-altering experience. Enjoy the journey, I certainly did.]
25 April 2009 - Day 11, Mile 107.7 - Rock Gap Shelter -> Winding Stair Gap/Franklin, NC (written 4/26 when back on the trail)
Up early and out on the trail @ 7:35am. Took a 1 mile side trail to see Wasilisk Poplar. I keep wanting to call it Basilisk Poplar. Probably the biggest tree I've seen so far in my life. Gracie & I were dwarfed by it. Nice Trail Magic at the Gap - sodas, snacks and dog treats for Ms. Gracie, plus a lift into Franklin and Gracie's first ride in the back of a pickup (I rode with her, for safety). Enjoyed the Franklin Motor Inn, 1960s style motor court. Only thing it didn't have was a tub - I was really hoping for a good epsom salt soak.
Blog entry written while in Franklin, NC
24 April 2010
Adventures on the Appalachian Trail (4/23/09)
[A year ago April 15th, I set out to hike the length of the Appalachian Trail, northbound from Georgia to Maine, with my 7 year old dog, Gracie. Almost nightly, I wrote journal entries about what I was experiencing. The demands of trail life with a dog precluded me from posting these entries during the hike. I've chosen to post excerpts to mark the anniversary of this life-altering experience. Enjoy the journey, I certainly did.]
23 April 2009 - Day 9, Mile 79.3 - Muskrat Creek Shelter -> Beech Gap Tenting Area
Slept in and took my time making breakfast and breaking camp. Rinsed some clothes in the stream and took time to hike back to Raven Cliffs to enjoy the unobstructed view and see the downed Cessna debris. Have I mentioned I've always wanted to get a pilot's license? Wanted to make Carter Gap shelter by tonight, but my noon start made that impossible. Probably could've marshalled on, but ran into Dave and Rock (section hikers) at Beech Gap and decided to camp with them. (I'd passed them the previous evening at Bly Gap). They're nice guys from Orlando, out hiking for the week (Hiawassee to Franklin). We ate dinner together sitting on downed logs, then hung bear bags. They tried to help me with mine (being gentleman, I suppose) but I had an easier time getting it done once I asked them to just let me do it myself. I really do need to lighten my food load, it's ridiculously heavy (and the bear line practically cuts into my hands as I hoist the bag).
Today I enjoyed hiking at my own pace and breaking camp at my own pace. I'd rather get going earlier and take my breaks at lunch and dinner, but today was a good experiment. Was thirsty most of the day. Water/streams are not as plentiful in North Carolina, and I didn't plan for or expect that. Will be more mindful tomorrow. Got into the 70s this afternoon and I took on Gracie's food since it was hot and water was limited. That helped her. It's starting to sprinkle now. As the sun was going down through the gap, a section of trees turned orange from the glow of the descending sun. The only real evidence of sunset other than glimpses of colored sky through the treetops. Amazing to see.
My coffee cup died (I'd carried a disposable from Georgia), so until Franklin, I'll drink from my cookpot if I need to make a beverage other than water. I'm filthy and starting to smell. I remind myself of the gorilla exhibit at the Houston Zoo.
Happy Birthday, Mom! I didn't have cell service today, but I thought of you a lot. Thought again about wanting to take care of, wanting to make it known that I'm available to take care of, my nieces and remembered a psychic reading I had several years ago mentioned something along those lines. It would be interesting to listen to those tapes again after so long. Three years, wow.
Goals for 4/24:
get on the trail by 8am
call Mom
call Amex re: bill
call re: Franklin shuttle
at least to Rock Gap shelter
Wasilik Poplar side trail
Internet/computer access in Franklin?
Highlights: sleeping in! Taking time to check out a view and the wreckage from a small plane crash. Oh yeah, I crossed my first state line yesterday and am now in North Carolina! The orange trees.
Food;
B - gluten-free cereal mix (too little water, corn did not rehydrate & was chewy), hot cocoa
L - trail mix (the last of Emily's good stuff)
D - awesome Mexican soup and chocolate
Retrospective: Dehydrated corn really must be rehydrated at a simmer for 20 minutes. Something my stove was incapable of doing (it has one setting - boil the heck out of everything) & my stomach was incapable of waiting on. Chewy veggies are still veggies. Crossing into North Carolina, the trail changed. It became suddenly warmer and more arid, and the distinction between the two states was surprising. Gracie lagged behind some when the temperatures rose, and I took on her load more frequently as a result.
23 April 2009 - Day 9, Mile 79.3 - Muskrat Creek Shelter -> Beech Gap Tenting Area
Slept in and took my time making breakfast and breaking camp. Rinsed some clothes in the stream and took time to hike back to Raven Cliffs to enjoy the unobstructed view and see the downed Cessna debris. Have I mentioned I've always wanted to get a pilot's license? Wanted to make Carter Gap shelter by tonight, but my noon start made that impossible. Probably could've marshalled on, but ran into Dave and Rock (section hikers) at Beech Gap and decided to camp with them. (I'd passed them the previous evening at Bly Gap). They're nice guys from Orlando, out hiking for the week (Hiawassee to Franklin). We ate dinner together sitting on downed logs, then hung bear bags. They tried to help me with mine (being gentleman, I suppose) but I had an easier time getting it done once I asked them to just let me do it myself. I really do need to lighten my food load, it's ridiculously heavy (and the bear line practically cuts into my hands as I hoist the bag).
Today I enjoyed hiking at my own pace and breaking camp at my own pace. I'd rather get going earlier and take my breaks at lunch and dinner, but today was a good experiment. Was thirsty most of the day. Water/streams are not as plentiful in North Carolina, and I didn't plan for or expect that. Will be more mindful tomorrow. Got into the 70s this afternoon and I took on Gracie's food since it was hot and water was limited. That helped her. It's starting to sprinkle now. As the sun was going down through the gap, a section of trees turned orange from the glow of the descending sun. The only real evidence of sunset other than glimpses of colored sky through the treetops. Amazing to see.
My coffee cup died (I'd carried a disposable from Georgia), so until Franklin, I'll drink from my cookpot if I need to make a beverage other than water. I'm filthy and starting to smell. I remind myself of the gorilla exhibit at the Houston Zoo.
Happy Birthday, Mom! I didn't have cell service today, but I thought of you a lot. Thought again about wanting to take care of, wanting to make it known that I'm available to take care of, my nieces and remembered a psychic reading I had several years ago mentioned something along those lines. It would be interesting to listen to those tapes again after so long. Three years, wow.
Goals for 4/24:
get on the trail by 8am
call Mom
call Amex re: bill
call re: Franklin shuttle
at least to Rock Gap shelter
Wasilik Poplar side trail
Internet/computer access in Franklin?
Highlights: sleeping in! Taking time to check out a view and the wreckage from a small plane crash. Oh yeah, I crossed my first state line yesterday and am now in North Carolina! The orange trees.
Food;
B - gluten-free cereal mix (too little water, corn did not rehydrate & was chewy), hot cocoa
L - trail mix (the last of Emily's good stuff)
D - awesome Mexican soup and chocolate
Retrospective: Dehydrated corn really must be rehydrated at a simmer for 20 minutes. Something my stove was incapable of doing (it has one setting - boil the heck out of everything) & my stomach was incapable of waiting on. Chewy veggies are still veggies. Crossing into North Carolina, the trail changed. It became suddenly warmer and more arid, and the distinction between the two states was surprising. Gracie lagged behind some when the temperatures rose, and I took on her load more frequently as a result.
Adventures on the Appalachian Trail (4/24/09)
[A year ago April 15th, I set out to hike the length of the Appalachian Trail, northbound from Georgia to Maine, with my 7 year old dog, Gracie. Almost nightly, I wrote journal entries about what I was experiencing. The demands of trail life with a dog precluded me from posting these entries during the hike. I've chosen to post excerpts to mark the anniversary of this life-altering experience. Enjoy the journey, I certainly did.]
24 April 2009 - Day 10, Mile 103.9 - Beech Gap Tenting Area -> Rock Gap Shelter
Another long day. 15 miles is a lot on the AT. Today was not easy, stretches of hot, dusty trail, hard climb up Albert Mountain that Gracie pulled me through. I was so proud of her this morning. She had to leap down from one log onto a log bridge over a stream. I took her pack off and she was nervous, but with encouragement, she made the leap just fine. I took her pack off for the ascent of Albert Mountain as well and let her lead the way. She did great. She also climbed the steps to the top of the Albert Mountain firetower, but was not too crazy about hanging out at the top.
Ten hours from start to finish hiking time, not including breaks for water, breakfast, lunch, and snacks. Glad I had one Ibuprofen left and can restock tomorrow. Shooting for Winding Stair Gap and shuttle at 11am. Possibly have enough food to keep going to the NOC (Nantahala Outdoor Center) if I make a few purchases in town. Need to check Gracie's supply and figure out what I need. Not much appetite for dinner tonight - gave most of it to the wonder dog.
Talked to Mom and David C. today, and it made me homesick. It's interesting that I'm wanting connection more than ever. I used to bristle at being asked to "call when you get there," but now I'm wanting to call all the time. I miss my friends and family, but am glad to be here. Nice people out here so far. Raspberry & Raindancer are @ the shelter with me tonight. Nice women who served in the Peace Corps (Africa) together. They're good company (and funny).
Highlight of the day: celebrating Gracie's log leap and her getting me up Albert Mountain
Low point: Thinking I was near the top of Albert Mountain, and looking up to see the firetower waaaaay up there.
I rinsed off a bit @ camp tonight, and though I'm still stinky, I feel much better. Still spending time worrying about Gracie. Today's heat - 80s at times - was quite warm for her under a load. I'm acclimated to the heat, but she's not. I think I need to just let her set the pace and see how she's doing a week or two after the Smokies. So warm tonight, I'm sleeping in shorts and long sleeves. Nice to not be battling Gracie's shivers.
Goals for 4/25:
See Wasilisk Poplar
Winding Stair Gap by 10:30am
Pickup Drops/decide on resupply and ship home/ahead (NOC?)
Get list of necessary items
Supplement existing food supply?
Figure out internet access and tend to list/bills
24 April 2009 - Day 10, Mile 103.9 - Beech Gap Tenting Area -> Rock Gap Shelter
Another long day. 15 miles is a lot on the AT. Today was not easy, stretches of hot, dusty trail, hard climb up Albert Mountain that Gracie pulled me through. I was so proud of her this morning. She had to leap down from one log onto a log bridge over a stream. I took her pack off and she was nervous, but with encouragement, she made the leap just fine. I took her pack off for the ascent of Albert Mountain as well and let her lead the way. She did great. She also climbed the steps to the top of the Albert Mountain firetower, but was not too crazy about hanging out at the top.
Ten hours from start to finish hiking time, not including breaks for water, breakfast, lunch, and snacks. Glad I had one Ibuprofen left and can restock tomorrow. Shooting for Winding Stair Gap and shuttle at 11am. Possibly have enough food to keep going to the NOC (Nantahala Outdoor Center) if I make a few purchases in town. Need to check Gracie's supply and figure out what I need. Not much appetite for dinner tonight - gave most of it to the wonder dog.
Talked to Mom and David C. today, and it made me homesick. It's interesting that I'm wanting connection more than ever. I used to bristle at being asked to "call when you get there," but now I'm wanting to call all the time. I miss my friends and family, but am glad to be here. Nice people out here so far. Raspberry & Raindancer are @ the shelter with me tonight. Nice women who served in the Peace Corps (Africa) together. They're good company (and funny).
Highlight of the day: celebrating Gracie's log leap and her getting me up Albert Mountain
Low point: Thinking I was near the top of Albert Mountain, and looking up to see the firetower waaaaay up there.
I rinsed off a bit @ camp tonight, and though I'm still stinky, I feel much better. Still spending time worrying about Gracie. Today's heat - 80s at times - was quite warm for her under a load. I'm acclimated to the heat, but she's not. I think I need to just let her set the pace and see how she's doing a week or two after the Smokies. So warm tonight, I'm sleeping in shorts and long sleeves. Nice to not be battling Gracie's shivers.
Goals for 4/25:
See Wasilisk Poplar
Winding Stair Gap by 10:30am
Pickup Drops/decide on resupply and ship home/ahead (NOC?)
Get list of necessary items
Supplement existing food supply?
Figure out internet access and tend to list/bills
23 April 2010
Adventures on the Appalachian Trail (4/22/09)
[A year ago April 15th, I set out to hike the length of the Appalachian Trail, northbound from Georgia to Maine, with my 7 year old dog, Gracie. Almost nightly, I wrote journal entries about what I was experiencing. The demands of trail life with a dog precluded me from posting these entries during the hike. I've chosen to post excerpts to mark the anniversary of this life-altering experience. Enjoy the journey, I certainly did.]
22 April 2009 - Day 8, Mile 79.3 - Deep Gap Shelter -> Muskrat Creek Shelter
Long day. Tenting tonight, shelter last night. Stuff I left out of last night's entry - almost unable to retrieve bear bag from Rocky Mountain; woke up at 4am, peeked out the bottom of the tarp, and saw twinkling lights in lots of small communities through the mountains - a reminder that there's civilization out there. It's easy to forget that during the day because all I see around me are trees, mountains, and sky. Long day = short entry - will write more tomorrow.
Retrospective: The several guys I'd been keeping pace with went into Hiawassee for the night, so I didn't expect to see anyone else I knew, but the Texas Train passed me (they were getting back on the trail after going into Hiawassee, and we all ended up at Muskrat Creek. They had added "Rooster" a little male beagle mix to their crew, through somewhat dubious circumstances. Another thru-hiker, Rooster's "owner" had asked the TX Train to watch his dog and was ok with them taking him along as they hiked. Something I would never imagine doing with Gracie. Typical of boy dogs, Rooster had to mark his territory every 10 yards, and Gracie had to stop and sniff every mark. They got to have some playtime together at the shelter, and since I had waaaay too much food from resupplying earlier in the day, I gave the TX Train a bag of granola for Rooster, who looked pretty skinny, and whose owner hadn't given them any food for him.
22 April 2009 - Day 8, Mile 79.3 - Deep Gap Shelter -> Muskrat Creek Shelter
Long day. Tenting tonight, shelter last night. Stuff I left out of last night's entry - almost unable to retrieve bear bag from Rocky Mountain; woke up at 4am, peeked out the bottom of the tarp, and saw twinkling lights in lots of small communities through the mountains - a reminder that there's civilization out there. It's easy to forget that during the day because all I see around me are trees, mountains, and sky. Long day = short entry - will write more tomorrow.
Retrospective: The several guys I'd been keeping pace with went into Hiawassee for the night, so I didn't expect to see anyone else I knew, but the Texas Train passed me (they were getting back on the trail after going into Hiawassee, and we all ended up at Muskrat Creek. They had added "Rooster" a little male beagle mix to their crew, through somewhat dubious circumstances. Another thru-hiker, Rooster's "owner" had asked the TX Train to watch his dog and was ok with them taking him along as they hiked. Something I would never imagine doing with Gracie. Typical of boy dogs, Rooster had to mark his territory every 10 yards, and Gracie had to stop and sniff every mark. They got to have some playtime together at the shelter, and since I had waaaay too much food from resupplying earlier in the day, I gave the TX Train a bag of granola for Rooster, who looked pretty skinny, and whose owner hadn't given them any food for him.
Adventures on the Appalachian Trail (4/21/09)
[A year ago April 15th, I set out to hike the length of the Appalachian Trail, northbound from Georgia to Maine, with my 7 year old dog, Gracie. Almost nightly, I wrote journal entries about what I was experiencing. The demands of trail life with a dog precluded me from posting these entries during the hike. I've chosen to post excerpts to mark the anniversary of this life-altering experience. Enjoy the journey, I certainly did.]
21 April 2009 - Day 7, Mile 64 - Rocky Mountain -> Deep Gap Shelter
Later start than I would have liked today, but at least the bear bag was a success. And we managed to retrieve our food as well. I was really thrown by the arrival of a female thru-hiker at the shelter who did her first 20+ mile day today. This is not who I want to be, but I'm feeling competitive. This is my experience and it need be nothing other than what I want it to be. Hiking my own hike, no one else's.
I'm starting to get noticeably stinky. Need to rinse my clothes in a creek and take a shower. Nice hiking today, did a better job of keeping Gracie warm. Worried about her for the more northern sections, though.
To Do's for 4/22
feed Gracie/snack
get going at 7:30am
breakfast at Dick's Creek Gap and meet Gary from Blueberry Patch with my resupply/possibility of showering?
keep Gracie warm
enjoy myself and the day
cross into North Carolina?
call Eddie regarding where to send stuff
Highlights: Successful bear bag,
Food:
B - Bob's Red Mill Gluten-free hot cereal & hot cocoa
L - pesto pasta
D - refried beans & polenta
Retrospective: Hardcore (aptly named) continued to keep up a pretty consistent 20 mile per day pace, and I still managed to see her at least one other time (at Mountaineer Shelter). When I first met her, it was too early in the hike (and I was too inexperienced) to realize that when you hike with a dog, you hike the dog's hike. Gracie & I did crank out some 20+ mile days, overall, our daily average was just over 12 miles/day, including rest days, and that was perfectly fine. And, I hiked with the most wonderful people as a result.
21 April 2009 - Day 7, Mile 64 - Rocky Mountain -> Deep Gap Shelter
Later start than I would have liked today, but at least the bear bag was a success. And we managed to retrieve our food as well. I was really thrown by the arrival of a female thru-hiker at the shelter who did her first 20+ mile day today. This is not who I want to be, but I'm feeling competitive. This is my experience and it need be nothing other than what I want it to be. Hiking my own hike, no one else's.
I'm starting to get noticeably stinky. Need to rinse my clothes in a creek and take a shower. Nice hiking today, did a better job of keeping Gracie warm. Worried about her for the more northern sections, though.
To Do's for 4/22
feed Gracie/snack
get going at 7:30am
breakfast at Dick's Creek Gap and meet Gary from Blueberry Patch with my resupply/possibility of showering?
keep Gracie warm
enjoy myself and the day
cross into North Carolina?
call Eddie regarding where to send stuff
Highlights: Successful bear bag,
Food:
B - Bob's Red Mill Gluten-free hot cereal & hot cocoa
L - pesto pasta
D - refried beans & polenta
Retrospective: Hardcore (aptly named) continued to keep up a pretty consistent 20 mile per day pace, and I still managed to see her at least one other time (at Mountaineer Shelter). When I first met her, it was too early in the hike (and I was too inexperienced) to realize that when you hike with a dog, you hike the dog's hike. Gracie & I did crank out some 20+ mile days, overall, our daily average was just over 12 miles/day, including rest days, and that was perfectly fine. And, I hiked with the most wonderful people as a result.
20 April 2010
Adventures on the Appalachian Trail (4/20/09)
[A year ago April 15th, I set out to hike the length of the Appalachian Trail, northbound from Georgia to Maine, with my 7 year old dog, Gracie. Almost nightly, I wrote journal entries about what I was experiencing. The demands of trail life with a dog precluded me from posting these entries during the hike. I've chosen to post excerpts to mark the anniversary of this life-altering experience. Enjoy the journey, I certainly did.]
20 April 2009 - Day 6 Mile 52.2 - Low Gap Shelter -> Rocky Mountain
Got Privy 101 from ridgerunner, Karunamiel - I asked because the privy at Low Gap shelter was full.
1. No peeing in the privy - pee in the woods.
2. Most of the Georgia privies are set up so there is a seat and a shelf. A privy exists under each space. While the open privy is in use, the one under the shelf is decomposing. Theoretically, in the time it takes to fill one privy, the dormant privy decomposes. The contents of the dormant privy are scattered, then the privy is opened, and the full one decomposes.
A ridgerunner's job (according to Karunamiel):
1. Walking information desk
2. AT census taker
3. Leave No Trace promoter
Camping away from a shelter for the first time with Geoff. We hung a PCT-style bear bag for the first time! Glad to not be alone out here - still exciting and scary. Weather was off & on rain all day. Finally the tarp dried enough to pitch when we got here (flat spot atop Rocky Mountain, ele. 4017ft.). Cold & windy atop Rocky Mtn, but rain should be past us for awhile. Sleeping bag is still wet in a couple places; may have cold feet tonight as a result (down bag loses it's insulating qualities when wet). Gracie is holding up well, but I'm struggling to keep her warm when we're not moving. Key in camp is to get tarp set up right away and get her on the sleeping bag ASAP. I'm also watching to make sure she doesn't get footsore. May put the booties on her tomorrow to help her out a little. She started getting a weepy right eye yesterday - seems better tonight, watching that as well. There are vets listed in the guidebook if I need them.
Took a 1 mile steep up & down side trail to see Chattahoochee Spring, source of the Chattahoochee River. Kinda neat to see where a river starts. Last night was tough - a hard rain that kept spattering through the tarp. Hiking was fun today. Nice & easy 5 miles out of camp, then an interesting 2 mile up & down over lichen-covered rocks. Looked like Lord of the Rings terrain. Steep & muddy descent to Unicoi Gap, then steep (but switchbacked) mile-ish climb up Rocky Mount. 1000 ft elevation gain in a mile. It's nice to be tenting in the woods, but I do feel much more secure with Geoff in the tent next door. I hope the bear bagging holds.
Recollections from last night's rainstorm: Hearing the wind rush through the treetops, then hearing/feeling it rush through the gap. The sound of the stream when the rain stopped. Birds chirping in the middle of the night after the rain. Hoot owls in the gap. Bear terror after the rain - surely it's time for them to check out camp and thinking every sound was a bear's footsteps and both bugged and relieved that Gracie just kept sleeping.
Felt like I only got 2 hours sleep last night, but I was ok energy-wise hiking today. Slept until ~7am (finally went to sleep around 4:30 and slept some prior to that). Lots of cool birds on the trail today, finches and a little bright yellow one. Pretty songs they have. Creativity & ingenuity are valuable skills out here. I'm short one tent stake, so I'm finding creative ways to stake or secure the doors (ha! I don't think you can really call these doors!) closed on the tarp and I'm using my rain jacket as a makeshift vapor barrier liner to help keep my feet warm in the damp sleeping bag
To Do:
wake up - make hot tea or mocha, eat a little something
keep Gracie warm
change to hiking clothes
break camp
hot lunch at Tray Mountain shelter
hydrate
hike to Deep Gap
call Gary Poteat
enjoy the day
spend time at the cliffs
Food:
B - Trail mix at camp & along the trail
L - oats & mocha (hot cocoa + instant coffee, yum!)
D - trail mix snacks, refried beans & polenta & veggies (quickly becoming a favorite)
Retrospective: Georgia privies also had usage meters. A study was being done and they were using pressure sensitive floormats that triggered a counter when they were stepped on to record usage statistics. After talking to the guys at Gossamer Gear, I think the "spatter through" was interior condensation that the heavy drops were knocking off the ceiling. Whatever the source, it wasn't fun to get rained on inside my only source of shelter. My to do list cracks me up today. For awhile, goal-setting for the next day was a nightly ritual. Eventually I just did that the night before I'd be in town, as I finally established a workable routine for making/breaking camp, and got far more laid back about when/where to eat, get water, and so on. To put this in context, this was my first time backpacking solo, and my first backpacking trip in over 15 years, so I had lots of stuff to learn/figure out. Like hanging a bear bag. I had every intention of at least practicing in the yard before I left, but it never happened. I did read the instructions several times, but didn't pack them, so when it came time to throw the bear bag, Geoff and I figured it out through trial and error that fortunately didn't include getting the line or or food bags permanently stuck in the trees.
20 April 2009 - Day 6 Mile 52.2 - Low Gap Shelter -> Rocky Mountain
Got Privy 101 from ridgerunner, Karunamiel - I asked because the privy at Low Gap shelter was full.
1. No peeing in the privy - pee in the woods.
2. Most of the Georgia privies are set up so there is a seat and a shelf. A privy exists under each space. While the open privy is in use, the one under the shelf is decomposing. Theoretically, in the time it takes to fill one privy, the dormant privy decomposes. The contents of the dormant privy are scattered, then the privy is opened, and the full one decomposes.
A ridgerunner's job (according to Karunamiel):
1. Walking information desk
2. AT census taker
3. Leave No Trace promoter
Camping away from a shelter for the first time with Geoff. We hung a PCT-style bear bag for the first time! Glad to not be alone out here - still exciting and scary. Weather was off & on rain all day. Finally the tarp dried enough to pitch when we got here (flat spot atop Rocky Mountain, ele. 4017ft.). Cold & windy atop Rocky Mtn, but rain should be past us for awhile. Sleeping bag is still wet in a couple places; may have cold feet tonight as a result (down bag loses it's insulating qualities when wet). Gracie is holding up well, but I'm struggling to keep her warm when we're not moving. Key in camp is to get tarp set up right away and get her on the sleeping bag ASAP. I'm also watching to make sure she doesn't get footsore. May put the booties on her tomorrow to help her out a little. She started getting a weepy right eye yesterday - seems better tonight, watching that as well. There are vets listed in the guidebook if I need them.
Took a 1 mile steep up & down side trail to see Chattahoochee Spring, source of the Chattahoochee River. Kinda neat to see where a river starts. Last night was tough - a hard rain that kept spattering through the tarp. Hiking was fun today. Nice & easy 5 miles out of camp, then an interesting 2 mile up & down over lichen-covered rocks. Looked like Lord of the Rings terrain. Steep & muddy descent to Unicoi Gap, then steep (but switchbacked) mile-ish climb up Rocky Mount. 1000 ft elevation gain in a mile. It's nice to be tenting in the woods, but I do feel much more secure with Geoff in the tent next door. I hope the bear bagging holds.
Recollections from last night's rainstorm: Hearing the wind rush through the treetops, then hearing/feeling it rush through the gap. The sound of the stream when the rain stopped. Birds chirping in the middle of the night after the rain. Hoot owls in the gap. Bear terror after the rain - surely it's time for them to check out camp and thinking every sound was a bear's footsteps and both bugged and relieved that Gracie just kept sleeping.
Felt like I only got 2 hours sleep last night, but I was ok energy-wise hiking today. Slept until ~7am (finally went to sleep around 4:30 and slept some prior to that). Lots of cool birds on the trail today, finches and a little bright yellow one. Pretty songs they have. Creativity & ingenuity are valuable skills out here. I'm short one tent stake, so I'm finding creative ways to stake or secure the doors (ha! I don't think you can really call these doors!) closed on the tarp and I'm using my rain jacket as a makeshift vapor barrier liner to help keep my feet warm in the damp sleeping bag
To Do:
wake up - make hot tea or mocha, eat a little something
keep Gracie warm
change to hiking clothes
break camp
hot lunch at Tray Mountain shelter
hydrate
hike to Deep Gap
call Gary Poteat
enjoy the day
spend time at the cliffs
Food:
B - Trail mix at camp & along the trail
L - oats & mocha (hot cocoa + instant coffee, yum!)
D - trail mix snacks, refried beans & polenta & veggies (quickly becoming a favorite)
Retrospective: Georgia privies also had usage meters. A study was being done and they were using pressure sensitive floormats that triggered a counter when they were stepped on to record usage statistics. After talking to the guys at Gossamer Gear, I think the "spatter through" was interior condensation that the heavy drops were knocking off the ceiling. Whatever the source, it wasn't fun to get rained on inside my only source of shelter. My to do list cracks me up today. For awhile, goal-setting for the next day was a nightly ritual. Eventually I just did that the night before I'd be in town, as I finally established a workable routine for making/breaking camp, and got far more laid back about when/where to eat, get water, and so on. To put this in context, this was my first time backpacking solo, and my first backpacking trip in over 15 years, so I had lots of stuff to learn/figure out. Like hanging a bear bag. I had every intention of at least practicing in the yard before I left, but it never happened. I did read the instructions several times, but didn't pack them, so when it came time to throw the bear bag, Geoff and I figured it out through trial and error that fortunately didn't include getting the line or or food bags permanently stuck in the trees.
19 April 2010
Adventures on the Appalachian Trail (4/19/09)
[A year ago April 15th, I set out to hike the length of the Appalachian Trail, northbound from Georgia to Maine, with my 7 year old dog, Gracie. Almost nightly, I wrote journal entries about what I was experiencing. The demands of trail life with a dog precluded me from posting these entries during the hike. I've chosen to post excerpts to mark the anniversary of this life-altering experience. Enjoy the journey, I certainly did.]
19 April 2009 - Day 5, Mile 41.5 - Neels Gap -> Low Gap Shelter
Felt good starting this morning. Had a tension headache most of the day but it's gone now. Been sprinkling off & on & now a steady light rain. Hope it doesn't get heavier because the tent is leaking/I'm getting spatter through at the heavier drops. I wonder if it's because I pitched it a little low and have been touching the inside ceiling a lot getting us situated. Gotta figure out how to pitch for more headroom.
Pack weight coming out of Neels Gap with water, fuel and four days ample food was 26 lbs! Gracie's pack weight with four days food was 5lbs. She's pooped again tonight. She shivers a lot in the evening. It's supposed to rain all day tomorrow. Don't know far I'll get. Next shelter is 7.2 miles - short, but skipping to the next means 15 miles or camping at a campsite without bear cables or shelter. I like tenting, but appreciate the shelter for cooking and socializing. Just hope my sleeping bag stays dry tonight. Draped my rain jacket over it where the leaking seems worst. This jacket, that I almost forgot in Austin, has been indispensable so far. A great campsite shell for when night is coming on. Typically, when I get to camp, I change into my wool baselayer and (egad) shorts, then don the fleece and/or rain shell as necessary.
Gonna read for a bit instead of stressing about the weather. It'll rain tomorrow, then it's supposed to be clear for at least a week. Things will dry eventually. We'll find a way to manage. I can hear a beautiful songbird from the tent and it makes me smile. I figure 5 more days to Franklin, NC and laundry/bed/shower/internets.
Highlights: setting the picnic table on fire at dinner, hearing the wind roar through the gap during the overnight rainstorm, surviving a wet night under the tarp, hearing hoot owls at dusk and songbirds signaling the end of the rain, being eye to eye with a salamander seeking refuge from the rain under my tarp, Privy 101 from the ridgerunner.
Food:
B - millet, quinoa, & corn, cooked on the cabin stove + strong green ginger tea, half a 20 oz. Mr. Pibb (I needed the empty soda bottle to hold my olive oil, the Wheatsville bottle I started with has a messy pour and the cap doesn't close securely)
L - cookies & cream Clif Builder Bar smeared with peanut butter, Emily's banana chip trail mix
D - pasta, pesto, sundried tomatoes, olives & tuna (Excellent! tuna pouches never tasted so good) plus hot cocoa, a few bites of trail mix while dinner cooked, and 2 squares of a dark chocolate/raspberry Chocolove bar for dessert
19 April 2009 - Day 5, Mile 41.5 - Neels Gap -> Low Gap Shelter
Felt good starting this morning. Had a tension headache most of the day but it's gone now. Been sprinkling off & on & now a steady light rain. Hope it doesn't get heavier because the tent is leaking/I'm getting spatter through at the heavier drops. I wonder if it's because I pitched it a little low and have been touching the inside ceiling a lot getting us situated. Gotta figure out how to pitch for more headroom.
Pack weight coming out of Neels Gap with water, fuel and four days ample food was 26 lbs! Gracie's pack weight with four days food was 5lbs. She's pooped again tonight. She shivers a lot in the evening. It's supposed to rain all day tomorrow. Don't know far I'll get. Next shelter is 7.2 miles - short, but skipping to the next means 15 miles or camping at a campsite without bear cables or shelter. I like tenting, but appreciate the shelter for cooking and socializing. Just hope my sleeping bag stays dry tonight. Draped my rain jacket over it where the leaking seems worst. This jacket, that I almost forgot in Austin, has been indispensable so far. A great campsite shell for when night is coming on. Typically, when I get to camp, I change into my wool baselayer and (egad) shorts, then don the fleece and/or rain shell as necessary.
Gonna read for a bit instead of stressing about the weather. It'll rain tomorrow, then it's supposed to be clear for at least a week. Things will dry eventually. We'll find a way to manage. I can hear a beautiful songbird from the tent and it makes me smile. I figure 5 more days to Franklin, NC and laundry/bed/shower/internets.
Highlights: setting the picnic table on fire at dinner, hearing the wind roar through the gap during the overnight rainstorm, surviving a wet night under the tarp, hearing hoot owls at dusk and songbirds signaling the end of the rain, being eye to eye with a salamander seeking refuge from the rain under my tarp, Privy 101 from the ridgerunner.
Food:
B - millet, quinoa, & corn, cooked on the cabin stove + strong green ginger tea, half a 20 oz. Mr. Pibb (I needed the empty soda bottle to hold my olive oil, the Wheatsville bottle I started with has a messy pour and the cap doesn't close securely)
L - cookies & cream Clif Builder Bar smeared with peanut butter, Emily's banana chip trail mix
D - pasta, pesto, sundried tomatoes, olives & tuna (Excellent! tuna pouches never tasted so good) plus hot cocoa, a few bites of trail mix while dinner cooked, and 2 squares of a dark chocolate/raspberry Chocolove bar for dessert
18 April 2010
Adventures on the Appalachian Trail (4/18/09)
[A year ago April 15th, I set out to hike the length of the Appalachian Trail, northbound from Georgia to Maine, with my 7 year old dog, Gracie. Almost nightly, I wrote journal entries about what I was experiencing. The demands of trail life with a dog precluded me from posting these entries during the hike. I've chosen to post excerpts to mark the anniversary of this life-altering experience. Enjoy the journey, I certainly did.]
18 April 2009 - Day 4, Mile 30.7 - Woods Hole Shelter -> Neels Gap/Goose Creek Campground
Bear came through camp last night about 4:30am. One had stolen food from the cables a previous night, so we made sure to hang ours out of reach, but he tested the cables, then moved on. Gracie slept right through the excitement. On Blood Mountain for rest & breakfast - if I can stand the flies - before heading to Neels Gap for resupply/short day. Ran in to the couple from yesterday (the woman Gracie nipped, and her husband) the bear got their food. The flies drove me off Blood Mountain. Hiking up Blood Mountain alone, early this morning was beautiful and eerie. Site of a legendary Creek/Cherokee battle that caused the mountain to turn red with blood. That kind of history will give you pause. Felt a lot of spirit energy. Stopped a couple of times just to take in the quiet and figure out if there was anything moving in the bushes.
Decided to overnight at Neels Gap to rest the blister instead of pushing on 11 miles. If the 6 miles past Neels Gap had been open for camping, I'd have walked on, but this is a nice respite. Goose Creek Cabins were built by the CCC in the 40s - one of the last remaining CCC recreation camps. My southern accent is coming out full force to meet the lazy Georgian drawl. I could live in a little one room cabin like that. What more does a person (this person) need?
Did sink laundry, showered, and cleaned the backpacking kitchen. Organized the food bag, mended some things (torn food bag liner, and Gracie's cracked food/water dish). Duct tape is a wonderful thing. I'm not hydrating enough!
Got my first taste of trail magic - a faith-based group grilled burgers at Walasi-Yi & visited with us. Nice bunch of folks. I ate two patties with cheese & fixin's. Called Mom & Dad & Emily. So glad to get to visit, and glad to be here. Excited to get my supply box - new varieties of food, cool peace quotes (from Laura) & a postcard from Katie. Will head out again tomorrow morning - ready to get back on the trail after a good night's sleep and a shower. Most of the guys I've been hiking with chose to stay around Neels Gap, and I caught up with the Texas Train. They trucked into Neels last night and one of their party is suffering for it. Hopefully they'll be back out tomorrow after a day of rest.
Loved hiking earlier today. Left out at 8am. Sometimes the only sounds were my footsteps (and Gracie's), the tick tick of the trekking poles on the trail, Gracie's cowbell, and our breathing. Maybe it was last night's bear sighting, but I felt like we could have come up on a bear were we a quieter pair. Saw several birds but it was hard to get a good picture. Ran into Ben (not yet Shitty Pot) slackpacking Blood Mountain today. What's a breviary? (Among Thomas Merton's personal effects)
Highlights: Shower! Trail Magic! Free shuttle to/from campground; resupply (Christmas in a box!) First bear and the hilarity that ensued as we laughed off the stress/anxiety after the bear moved on. It was like a mini episode of the Daily Show. About bears, and Gracie's complete and utter lack of interest.
Food:
B - trail mix
L - trail magic burgers
D - red lentils & rice
Retrospective: That was the last time I would see Ben. He kept hiking a long time, but was always behind me. He eventually got off the trail, but I heard about him from other hikers (mainly through Gordon Bombay). Last two nights were with the same crew of guys - Pittsburgh, Geoff, Steve, (not yet) Nordic, Hill William, and Michael. Jenny had given me a book, whose title escapes me at the moment, that was a collection of packing lists for a variety of travelers, including Grandma Gatewood, three-time AT thru-hiker. Thomas Merton was my list for the night, and I didn't know what a breviary was. According to wikipedia, it's a book of liturgical rites and prayers. The book was great "light reading" for the trail. Thanks, Jenny!
18 April 2009 - Day 4, Mile 30.7 - Woods Hole Shelter -> Neels Gap/Goose Creek Campground
Bear came through camp last night about 4:30am. One had stolen food from the cables a previous night, so we made sure to hang ours out of reach, but he tested the cables, then moved on. Gracie slept right through the excitement. On Blood Mountain for rest & breakfast - if I can stand the flies - before heading to Neels Gap for resupply/short day. Ran in to the couple from yesterday (the woman Gracie nipped, and her husband) the bear got their food. The flies drove me off Blood Mountain. Hiking up Blood Mountain alone, early this morning was beautiful and eerie. Site of a legendary Creek/Cherokee battle that caused the mountain to turn red with blood. That kind of history will give you pause. Felt a lot of spirit energy. Stopped a couple of times just to take in the quiet and figure out if there was anything moving in the bushes.
Decided to overnight at Neels Gap to rest the blister instead of pushing on 11 miles. If the 6 miles past Neels Gap had been open for camping, I'd have walked on, but this is a nice respite. Goose Creek Cabins were built by the CCC in the 40s - one of the last remaining CCC recreation camps. My southern accent is coming out full force to meet the lazy Georgian drawl. I could live in a little one room cabin like that. What more does a person (this person) need?
Did sink laundry, showered, and cleaned the backpacking kitchen. Organized the food bag, mended some things (torn food bag liner, and Gracie's cracked food/water dish). Duct tape is a wonderful thing. I'm not hydrating enough!
Got my first taste of trail magic - a faith-based group grilled burgers at Walasi-Yi & visited with us. Nice bunch of folks. I ate two patties with cheese & fixin's. Called Mom & Dad & Emily. So glad to get to visit, and glad to be here. Excited to get my supply box - new varieties of food, cool peace quotes (from Laura) & a postcard from Katie. Will head out again tomorrow morning - ready to get back on the trail after a good night's sleep and a shower. Most of the guys I've been hiking with chose to stay around Neels Gap, and I caught up with the Texas Train. They trucked into Neels last night and one of their party is suffering for it. Hopefully they'll be back out tomorrow after a day of rest.
Loved hiking earlier today. Left out at 8am. Sometimes the only sounds were my footsteps (and Gracie's), the tick tick of the trekking poles on the trail, Gracie's cowbell, and our breathing. Maybe it was last night's bear sighting, but I felt like we could have come up on a bear were we a quieter pair. Saw several birds but it was hard to get a good picture. Ran into Ben (not yet Shitty Pot) slackpacking Blood Mountain today. What's a breviary? (Among Thomas Merton's personal effects)
Highlights: Shower! Trail Magic! Free shuttle to/from campground; resupply (Christmas in a box!) First bear and the hilarity that ensued as we laughed off the stress/anxiety after the bear moved on. It was like a mini episode of the Daily Show. About bears, and Gracie's complete and utter lack of interest.
Food:
B - trail mix
L - trail magic burgers
D - red lentils & rice
Retrospective: That was the last time I would see Ben. He kept hiking a long time, but was always behind me. He eventually got off the trail, but I heard about him from other hikers (mainly through Gordon Bombay). Last two nights were with the same crew of guys - Pittsburgh, Geoff, Steve, (not yet) Nordic, Hill William, and Michael. Jenny had given me a book, whose title escapes me at the moment, that was a collection of packing lists for a variety of travelers, including Grandma Gatewood, three-time AT thru-hiker. Thomas Merton was my list for the night, and I didn't know what a breviary was. According to wikipedia, it's a book of liturgical rites and prayers. The book was great "light reading" for the trail. Thanks, Jenny!
Adventures on the Appalachian Trail (4/17/09)
[A year ago April 15th, I set out to hike the length of the Appalachian Trail, northbound from Georgia to Maine, with my 7 year old dog, Gracie. Almost nightly, I wrote journal entries about what I was experiencing. The demands of trail life with a dog precluded me from posting these entries during the hike. I've chosen to post excerpts to mark the anniversary of this life-altering experience. Enjoy the journey, I certainly did.]
17 April 2009 - Day 3 - Gooch Mtn Shelter -> Woods Hole Shelter
Tomorrow, Neels Gap & camping at Goose Creek Campground - shower! Resupply!
I like Shortcut's style - pack up & get moving, then stop for breakfast. Will try it tomorrow so Gracie stays warm. About 2 miles to Slaughter Creek (Campsite), more water, good place for breakfast. Tough day today. Physical Inventory: right heel blister, right foot bone soreness, tops of my feet, shins, and calves are sore, ligament behind right knee. Glutes, right neck sore. At least I don't have all kinda chafing, like some people. Emotional Inventory: really good until Gracie nipped a lady headed to the spring at Woods Hole. I just need to warn people she's not friendly - she's working. So, that has put a damper on my evening.
Bear report at the shelter has moved me & Gracie into the shelter (I had initially pitched the tarp 50 yards from the bear cables, where the bear had made an appearance the night before). Could really use cell service so I could check my messages. Lots of time today thinking about my friends, Allah, 3rd & 7th step prayers, an ex, but I focused on stepping carefully to not cause more or worsen existing blisters.
Highlights: Hawk crossed our path today
Food:
B - Oats
L - Trail mix & gluten-free pretzels
D - refried beans & polenta, chocolate!
Retrospective: I'd had a foot issue earlier in the year from wearing boots with insufficient cushioning/support and my trail runners were starting to give me the same symptoms
17 April 2009 - Day 3 - Gooch Mtn Shelter -> Woods Hole Shelter
Tomorrow, Neels Gap & camping at Goose Creek Campground - shower! Resupply!
I like Shortcut's style - pack up & get moving, then stop for breakfast. Will try it tomorrow so Gracie stays warm. About 2 miles to Slaughter Creek (Campsite), more water, good place for breakfast. Tough day today. Physical Inventory: right heel blister, right foot bone soreness, tops of my feet, shins, and calves are sore, ligament behind right knee. Glutes, right neck sore. At least I don't have all kinda chafing, like some people. Emotional Inventory: really good until Gracie nipped a lady headed to the spring at Woods Hole. I just need to warn people she's not friendly - she's working. So, that has put a damper on my evening.
Bear report at the shelter has moved me & Gracie into the shelter (I had initially pitched the tarp 50 yards from the bear cables, where the bear had made an appearance the night before). Could really use cell service so I could check my messages. Lots of time today thinking about my friends, Allah, 3rd & 7th step prayers, an ex, but I focused on stepping carefully to not cause more or worsen existing blisters.
Highlights: Hawk crossed our path today
Food:
B - Oats
L - Trail mix & gluten-free pretzels
D - refried beans & polenta, chocolate!
Retrospective: I'd had a foot issue earlier in the year from wearing boots with insufficient cushioning/support and my trail runners were starting to give me the same symptoms
16 April 2010
Adventures on the Appalachian Trail (4/16/09)
[Exactly a year ago, I set out to hike the length of the Appalachian Trail, northbound from Georgia to Maine, with my 7 year old dog, Gracie. Almost nightly, I wrote journal entries about what I was experiencing. The demands of trail life with a dog precluded me from posting these entries during the hike. I've chosen to post excerpts to mark the anniversary of this life-altering experience. Enjoy the journey, I certainly did.]
16 April 2009 - Day 2 - Stover Creek Shelter -> Gooch Mtn Shelter
AM stretching did not happen. Lights out at 7:30pm, as soon as the sun went below the trees. Stayed in bed until 7ish, last to leave the shelter at 9:30am. Still made my goal for the day. George (Springer Mtn ridgerunner) & shortcut stopped at Stover Creek as I was packing up. George is 77, has been living on the mountain for two months, and plans to hike the Colorado Long Trail when his ridgerunner tour is up. Awesome.
More signs of spring at lower elevations today; got some photos of budding plants that look primordial. Anyone worried about me losing weight on this trip can stop now. The meals are huge! Met lots of other hikers today. Probably 10-15 of us at the shelter. I pitched the tarp pretty well. First night in the tarp on the trail. Shelter sleepers Snore!
Visited with Crawl at Hawk Mtn. shelter at lunch. He's having a zero day while he waits for his knees to recover. Former truck driver hoping to lose 70# over the course of his thru. We talked about food! I feel pretty good about my nutrition plan. Met some fellow Texas boys including Matthew from Austin, who knows Carson and had seen one of my supply boxes. Small world. I leapfrogged three of the guys from last night's shelter, and no sign of the Rifleman. Gracie seems more tired today. Got up in the 70s today - perfect hiking weather. Got to camp, pitched the tarp & cleaned up a bit and feel better. Possible blister developing on my inside right heel.
Highlights: Long Creek Falls, tenting out, budding plants
Food: B - gluten-free hot cereal with nutritional yeast & dehydrated corn
L/snacks - instant hummus with sundried tomatoes & olive oil, trail mix, Clif Builder Bar smeared with peanut butter
D - red rice noodles with greens, cabbage, carrots, TVP, & vegetarian bouillion (thanks, Ken!)
16 April 2009 - Day 2 - Stover Creek Shelter -> Gooch Mtn Shelter
AM stretching did not happen. Lights out at 7:30pm, as soon as the sun went below the trees. Stayed in bed until 7ish, last to leave the shelter at 9:30am. Still made my goal for the day. George (Springer Mtn ridgerunner) & shortcut stopped at Stover Creek as I was packing up. George is 77, has been living on the mountain for two months, and plans to hike the Colorado Long Trail when his ridgerunner tour is up. Awesome.
More signs of spring at lower elevations today; got some photos of budding plants that look primordial. Anyone worried about me losing weight on this trip can stop now. The meals are huge! Met lots of other hikers today. Probably 10-15 of us at the shelter. I pitched the tarp pretty well. First night in the tarp on the trail. Shelter sleepers Snore!
Visited with Crawl at Hawk Mtn. shelter at lunch. He's having a zero day while he waits for his knees to recover. Former truck driver hoping to lose 70# over the course of his thru. We talked about food! I feel pretty good about my nutrition plan. Met some fellow Texas boys including Matthew from Austin, who knows Carson and had seen one of my supply boxes. Small world. I leapfrogged three of the guys from last night's shelter, and no sign of the Rifleman. Gracie seems more tired today. Got up in the 70s today - perfect hiking weather. Got to camp, pitched the tarp & cleaned up a bit and feel better. Possible blister developing on my inside right heel.
Highlights: Long Creek Falls, tenting out, budding plants
Food: B - gluten-free hot cereal with nutritional yeast & dehydrated corn
L/snacks - instant hummus with sundried tomatoes & olive oil, trail mix, Clif Builder Bar smeared with peanut butter
D - red rice noodles with greens, cabbage, carrots, TVP, & vegetarian bouillion (thanks, Ken!)
15 April 2010
Adventures on the Appalachian Trail (4/15/09)
[Exactly a year ago, I set out to hike the length of the Appalachian Trail, northbound from Georgia to Maine, with my 7 year old dog, Gracie. Almost nightly, I wrote journal entries about what I was experiencing. The demands of trail life with a dog precluded me from posting these entries during the hike. I've chosen to post excerpts to mark the anniversary of this life-altering experience. Enjoy the journey, I certainly did.]
15 April 2009 - Day 1 - Stover Creek Shelter
Summitted Springer Mountain this afternoon & went 2.8 miles on the official AT. Wow. It is still sinking in that I am really doing this. Shelter full of guys tonight. A strange guy showed up at the shelter last night at midnight. With Gracie, I wasn't too concerned, but everyone who's run into him on the trail today had a strange feeling about him. Dressed in denim & workboots, carrying a rifle, machete, and an army knife. Gracie put the scare into him and I truly believe he is harmless - James from Ohio - but I'm glad he didn't make it far. Shared some of my breakfast with him as an act of goodwill & I had the sense he didn't have any food, which my fellow hikers confirmed. Hope he got to town - safety & warmth. This world is hard for some people. Trying the shelter again tonight & putting my feet up. My lower legs can definitely tell they had a workout.
So far, one day in, I'm glad to have little company. There are five of us here at Stover. Two guys from Georgia (a thru-hiker and his buddy who's going as far as Neels Gap) Matt from Maine (Transition), who I leap-frogged several times on the trail & another kid whose name I don't know (Ben - Shitty Pot) from Arkansas. Gracie has been cranky & mean today - almost bit one of the Georgia guys. I like that she's being protective.
Started at 9:20am - later than I wanted, but turned out fine. The (Approach) trail was not as difficult as Bryson (Bill Bryson, author of "A Walk in the Woods") had led me to believe, but I forget that I'm an athlete. 11.6 miles the first day is good. Will try to spend the night in the shelter. Mild concern about rodents, but hopeful that Gracie will keep them at bay. If she freaks, I'll have to pitch the tent in the dark. I can do it but don't want to. We'll see what happens. Hard to sleep last night with the Rifleman (James) waking us up at midnight & the cold & unfamiliar noises. The wind in the trees such a foreign sound that I expect I'll come to welcome.
Checked in at the visitor center this morning & Loretta took our picture after Gracie got mouthy with her. I think Gracie was/is feeding off my nervousness. George the ridgerunner atop Springer said we were the 6th thru-hikers today and 700-something since Feb. 28th. My left foot was numb when we started this morning, so cold it was. Got into the 40s at the shelter last night (at the base of the Approach Trail) and will surely hit the 30s tonight. George said it was 34 on Springer last night. Glad Stover Creek is a little lower in elevation, hoping for warmer temps. I'll be happy if my water doesn't freeze. Speaking of weather, it's clear and sunny and should stay that way until Sat. or Sun. when rain may be back. Gracie snoogled really close a couple of times last night but we both slept pretty fitfully. I hope she worked hard enough today that she'll sleep through the night.
Bufflaclava is sure warm. Only 7:15 and I am sure ready for bed. It's the warmest place to be. Need to stretch a little, though. Body scan: So far so good on the feet - use foot powder in the am; hips will surely be sore tomorrow and lower legs are achy tonight. I've taken ibuprofen and will stretch before bed. Did not drink enough while hiking and had a mild headache when I got to the shelter, but I'm ok now. Don't like having to pee in the middle of the night. Backpack: felt some strain in my left upper back - perhaps misaligned straps/belt or unbalanced load. Will be more aware of how pack fits in AM. Stretching felt good, will try to do some in the am.
Retrospective: My friends Nett & Jenn had given me a Buff as a trail present. An unofficial goal was to see how many ways I could find to wear it. During cold nights, the "balaclava" variation, dubbed the Bufflaclava, kept my head pretty warm. Thankfully, "the Rifleman" was one of less than a handful of characters I would encounter along the trail that gave me pause. One thing that did give me pause was Gracie's temperament. She continued to be cranky & mean with people much more than a hiker dog should, and more than once I considered getting off the trail or getting her off the trail, but I simply wasn't willing to go that far. Instead I tried to find ways to make the experience work for her, and by the end, she was making friends with just about everyone.
15 April 2009 - Day 1 - Stover Creek Shelter
Summitted Springer Mountain this afternoon & went 2.8 miles on the official AT. Wow. It is still sinking in that I am really doing this. Shelter full of guys tonight. A strange guy showed up at the shelter last night at midnight. With Gracie, I wasn't too concerned, but everyone who's run into him on the trail today had a strange feeling about him. Dressed in denim & workboots, carrying a rifle, machete, and an army knife. Gracie put the scare into him and I truly believe he is harmless - James from Ohio - but I'm glad he didn't make it far. Shared some of my breakfast with him as an act of goodwill & I had the sense he didn't have any food, which my fellow hikers confirmed. Hope he got to town - safety & warmth. This world is hard for some people. Trying the shelter again tonight & putting my feet up. My lower legs can definitely tell they had a workout.
So far, one day in, I'm glad to have little company. There are five of us here at Stover. Two guys from Georgia (a thru-hiker and his buddy who's going as far as Neels Gap) Matt from Maine (Transition), who I leap-frogged several times on the trail & another kid whose name I don't know (Ben - Shitty Pot) from Arkansas. Gracie has been cranky & mean today - almost bit one of the Georgia guys. I like that she's being protective.
Started at 9:20am - later than I wanted, but turned out fine. The (Approach) trail was not as difficult as Bryson (Bill Bryson, author of "A Walk in the Woods") had led me to believe, but I forget that I'm an athlete. 11.6 miles the first day is good. Will try to spend the night in the shelter. Mild concern about rodents, but hopeful that Gracie will keep them at bay. If she freaks, I'll have to pitch the tent in the dark. I can do it but don't want to. We'll see what happens. Hard to sleep last night with the Rifleman (James) waking us up at midnight & the cold & unfamiliar noises. The wind in the trees such a foreign sound that I expect I'll come to welcome.
Checked in at the visitor center this morning & Loretta took our picture after Gracie got mouthy with her. I think Gracie was/is feeding off my nervousness. George the ridgerunner atop Springer said we were the 6th thru-hikers today and 700-something since Feb. 28th. My left foot was numb when we started this morning, so cold it was. Got into the 40s at the shelter last night (at the base of the Approach Trail) and will surely hit the 30s tonight. George said it was 34 on Springer last night. Glad Stover Creek is a little lower in elevation, hoping for warmer temps. I'll be happy if my water doesn't freeze. Speaking of weather, it's clear and sunny and should stay that way until Sat. or Sun. when rain may be back. Gracie snoogled really close a couple of times last night but we both slept pretty fitfully. I hope she worked hard enough today that she'll sleep through the night.
Bufflaclava is sure warm. Only 7:15 and I am sure ready for bed. It's the warmest place to be. Need to stretch a little, though. Body scan: So far so good on the feet - use foot powder in the am; hips will surely be sore tomorrow and lower legs are achy tonight. I've taken ibuprofen and will stretch before bed. Did not drink enough while hiking and had a mild headache when I got to the shelter, but I'm ok now. Don't like having to pee in the middle of the night. Backpack: felt some strain in my left upper back - perhaps misaligned straps/belt or unbalanced load. Will be more aware of how pack fits in AM. Stretching felt good, will try to do some in the am.
Retrospective: My friends Nett & Jenn had given me a Buff as a trail present. An unofficial goal was to see how many ways I could find to wear it. During cold nights, the "balaclava" variation, dubbed the Bufflaclava, kept my head pretty warm. Thankfully, "the Rifleman" was one of less than a handful of characters I would encounter along the trail that gave me pause. One thing that did give me pause was Gracie's temperament. She continued to be cranky & mean with people much more than a hiker dog should, and more than once I considered getting off the trail or getting her off the trail, but I simply wasn't willing to go that far. Instead I tried to find ways to make the experience work for her, and by the end, she was making friends with just about everyone.
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