Adventures on the Appalachian Trail (4/15/09)

[Exactly a year ago, I set out to hike the length of the Appalachian Trail, northbound from Georgia to Maine, with my 7 year old dog, Gracie. Almost nightly, I wrote journal entries about what I was experiencing. The demands of trail life with a dog precluded me from posting these entries during the hike. I've chosen to post excerpts to mark the anniversary of this life-altering experience. Enjoy the journey, I certainly did.]

15 April 2009 - Day 1 - Stover Creek Shelter
Summitted Springer Mountain this afternoon & went 2.8 miles on the official AT. Wow. It is still sinking in that I am really doing this. Shelter full of guys tonight. A strange guy showed up at the shelter last night at midnight. With Gracie, I wasn't too concerned, but everyone who's run into him on the trail today had a strange feeling about him. Dressed in denim & workboots, carrying a rifle, machete, and an army knife. Gracie put the scare into him and I truly believe he is harmless - James from Ohio - but I'm glad he didn't make it far. Shared some of my breakfast with him as an act of goodwill & I had the sense he didn't have any food, which my fellow hikers confirmed. Hope he got to town - safety & warmth. This world is hard for some people. Trying the shelter again tonight & putting my feet up. My lower legs can definitely tell they had a workout.

So far, one day in, I'm glad to have little company. There are five of us here at Stover. Two guys from Georgia (a thru-hiker and his buddy who's going as far as Neels Gap) Matt from Maine (Transition), who I leap-frogged several times on the trail & another kid whose name I don't know (Ben - Shitty Pot) from Arkansas. Gracie has been cranky & mean today - almost bit one of the Georgia guys. I like that she's being protective.

Started at 9:20am - later than I wanted, but turned out fine. The (Approach) trail was not as difficult as Bryson (Bill Bryson, author of "A Walk in the Woods") had led me to believe, but I forget that I'm an athlete. 11.6 miles the first day is good. Will try to spend the night in the shelter. Mild concern about rodents, but hopeful that Gracie will keep them at bay. If she freaks, I'll have to pitch the tent in the dark. I can do it but don't want to. We'll see what happens. Hard to sleep last night with the Rifleman (James) waking us up at midnight & the cold & unfamiliar noises. The wind in the trees such a foreign sound that I expect I'll come to welcome.

Checked in at the visitor center this morning & Loretta took our picture after Gracie got mouthy with her. I think Gracie was/is feeding off my nervousness. George the ridgerunner atop Springer said we were the 6th thru-hikers today and 700-something since Feb. 28th. My left foot was numb when we started this morning, so cold it was. Got into the 40s at the shelter last night (at the base of the Approach Trail) and will surely hit the 30s tonight. George said it was 34 on Springer last night. Glad Stover Creek is a little lower in elevation, hoping for warmer temps. I'll be happy if my water doesn't freeze. Speaking of weather, it's clear and sunny and should stay that way until Sat. or Sun. when rain may be back. Gracie snoogled really close a couple of times last night but we both slept pretty fitfully. I hope she worked hard enough today that she'll sleep through the night.

Bufflaclava is sure warm. Only 7:15 and I am sure ready for bed. It's the warmest place to be. Need to stretch a little, though. Body scan: So far so good on the feet - use foot powder in the am; hips will surely be sore tomorrow and lower legs are achy tonight. I've taken ibuprofen and will stretch before bed. Did not drink enough while hiking and had a mild headache when I got to the shelter, but I'm ok now. Don't like having to pee in the middle of the night. Backpack: felt some strain in my left upper back - perhaps misaligned straps/belt or unbalanced load. Will be more aware of how pack fits in AM. Stretching felt good, will try to do some in the am.

Retrospective: My friends Nett & Jenn had given me a Buff as a trail present. An unofficial goal was to see how many ways I could find to wear it. During cold nights, the "balaclava" variation, dubbed the Bufflaclava, kept my head pretty warm. Thankfully, "the Rifleman" was one of less than a handful of characters I would encounter along the trail that gave me pause. One thing that did give me pause was Gracie's temperament. She continued to be cranky & mean with people much more than a hiker dog should, and more than once I considered getting off the trail or getting her off the trail, but I simply wasn't willing to go that far. Instead I tried to find ways to make the experience work for her, and by the end, she was making friends with just about everyone.