23 April 2010

Adventures on the Appalachian Trail (4/21/09)

[A year ago April 15th, I set out to hike the length of the Appalachian Trail, northbound from Georgia to Maine, with my 7 year old dog, Gracie. Almost nightly, I wrote journal entries about what I was experiencing. The demands of trail life with a dog precluded me from posting these entries during the hike. I've chosen to post excerpts to mark the anniversary of this life-altering experience. Enjoy the journey, I certainly did.]

21 April 2009 - Day 7, Mile 64 - Rocky Mountain -> Deep Gap Shelter
Later start than I would have liked today, but at least the bear bag was a success. And we managed to retrieve our food as well. I was really thrown by the arrival of a female thru-hiker at the shelter who did her first 20+ mile day today. This is not who I want to be, but I'm feeling competitive. This is my experience and it need be nothing other than what I want it to be. Hiking my own hike, no one else's.

I'm starting to get noticeably stinky. Need to rinse my clothes in a creek and take a shower. Nice hiking today, did a better job of keeping Gracie warm. Worried about her for the more northern sections, though.

To Do's for 4/22
feed Gracie/snack
get going at 7:30am
breakfast at Dick's Creek Gap and meet Gary from Blueberry Patch with my resupply/possibility of showering?
keep Gracie warm
enjoy myself and the day
cross into North Carolina?
call Eddie regarding where to send stuff

Highlights: Successful bear bag,

Food:
B - Bob's Red Mill Gluten-free hot cereal & hot cocoa
L - pesto pasta
D - refried beans & polenta

Retrospective: Hardcore (aptly named) continued to keep up a pretty consistent 20 mile per day pace, and I still managed to see her at least one other time (at Mountaineer Shelter). When I first met her, it was too early in the hike (and I was too inexperienced) to realize that when you hike with a dog, you hike the dog's hike. Gracie & I did crank out some 20+ mile days, overall, our daily average was just over 12 miles/day, including rest days, and that was perfectly fine. And, I hiked with the most wonderful people as a result.

20 April 2010

Adventures on the Appalachian Trail (4/20/09)

[A year ago April 15th, I set out to hike the length of the Appalachian Trail, northbound from Georgia to Maine, with my 7 year old dog, Gracie. Almost nightly, I wrote journal entries about what I was experiencing. The demands of trail life with a dog precluded me from posting these entries during the hike. I've chosen to post excerpts to mark the anniversary of this life-altering experience. Enjoy the journey, I certainly did.]

20 April 2009 - Day 6 Mile 52.2 - Low Gap Shelter -> Rocky Mountain
Got Privy 101 from ridgerunner, Karunamiel - I asked because the privy at Low Gap shelter was full.
1. No peeing in the privy - pee in the woods.
2. Most of the Georgia privies are set up so there is a seat and a shelf. A privy exists under each space. While the open privy is in use, the one under the shelf is decomposing. Theoretically, in the time it takes to fill one privy, the dormant privy decomposes. The contents of the dormant privy are scattered, then the privy is opened, and the full one decomposes.


A ridgerunner's job (according to Karunamiel):
1. Walking information desk
2. AT census taker
3. Leave No Trace promoter

Camping away from a shelter for the first time with Geoff. We hung a PCT-style bear bag for the first time! Glad to not be alone out here - still exciting and scary. Weather was off & on rain all day. Finally the tarp dried enough to pitch when we got here (flat spot atop Rocky Mountain, ele. 4017ft.). Cold & windy atop Rocky Mtn, but rain should be past us for awhile. Sleeping bag is still wet in a couple places; may have cold feet tonight as a result (down bag loses it's insulating qualities when wet). Gracie is holding up well, but I'm struggling to keep her warm when we're not moving. Key in camp is to get tarp set up right away and get her on the sleeping bag ASAP. I'm also watching to make sure she doesn't get footsore. May put the booties on her tomorrow to help her out a little. She started getting a weepy right eye yesterday - seems better tonight, watching that as well. There are vets listed in the guidebook if I need them.

Took a 1 mile steep up & down side trail to see Chattahoochee Spring, source of the Chattahoochee River. Kinda neat to see where a river starts. Last night was tough - a hard rain that kept spattering through the tarp. Hiking was fun today. Nice & easy 5 miles out of camp, then an interesting 2 mile up & down over lichen-covered rocks. Looked like Lord of the Rings terrain. Steep & muddy descent to Unicoi Gap, then steep (but switchbacked) mile-ish climb up Rocky Mount. 1000 ft elevation gain in a mile. It's nice to be tenting in the woods, but I do feel much more secure with Geoff in the tent next door. I hope the bear bagging holds.

Recollections from last night's rainstorm: Hearing the wind rush through the treetops, then hearing/feeling it rush through the gap. The sound of the stream when the rain stopped. Birds chirping in the middle of the night after the rain. Hoot owls in the gap. Bear terror after the rain - surely it's time for them to check out camp and thinking every sound was a bear's footsteps and both bugged and relieved that Gracie just kept sleeping.

Felt like I only got 2 hours sleep last night, but I was ok energy-wise hiking today. Slept until ~7am (finally went to sleep around 4:30 and slept some prior to that). Lots of cool birds on the trail today, finches and a little bright yellow one. Pretty songs they have. Creativity & ingenuity are valuable skills out here. I'm short one tent stake, so I'm finding creative ways to stake or secure the doors (ha! I don't think you can really call these doors!) closed on the tarp and I'm using my rain jacket as a makeshift vapor barrier liner to help keep my feet warm in the damp sleeping bag

To Do:
wake up - make hot tea or mocha, eat a little something
keep Gracie warm
change to hiking clothes
break camp
hot lunch at Tray Mountain shelter
hydrate
hike to Deep Gap
call Gary Poteat
enjoy the day
spend time at the cliffs

Food:
B - Trail mix at camp & along the trail
L - oats & mocha (hot cocoa + instant coffee, yum!)
D - trail mix snacks, refried beans & polenta & veggies (quickly becoming a favorite)

Retrospective: Georgia privies also had usage meters. A study was being done and they were using pressure sensitive floormats that triggered a counter when they were stepped on to record usage statistics. After talking to the guys at Gossamer Gear, I think the "spatter through" was interior condensation that the heavy drops were knocking off the ceiling. Whatever the source, it wasn't fun to get rained on inside my only source of shelter. My to do list cracks me up today. For awhile, goal-setting for the next day was a nightly ritual. Eventually I just did that the night before I'd be in town, as I finally established a workable routine for making/breaking camp, and got far more laid back about when/where to eat, get water, and so on. To put this in context, this was my first time backpacking solo, and my first backpacking trip in over 15 years, so I had lots of stuff to learn/figure out. Like hanging a bear bag. I had every intention of at least practicing in the yard before I left, but it never happened. I did read the instructions several times, but didn't pack them, so when it came time to throw the bear bag, Geoff and I figured it out through trial and error that fortunately didn't include getting the line or or food bags permanently stuck in the trees.

19 April 2010

Adventures on the Appalachian Trail (4/19/09)

[A year ago April 15th, I set out to hike the length of the Appalachian Trail, northbound from Georgia to Maine, with my 7 year old dog, Gracie. Almost nightly, I wrote journal entries about what I was experiencing. The demands of trail life with a dog precluded me from posting these entries during the hike. I've chosen to post excerpts to mark the anniversary of this life-altering experience. Enjoy the journey, I certainly did.]

19 April 2009 - Day 5, Mile 41.5 - Neels Gap -> Low Gap Shelter
Felt good starting this morning. Had a tension headache most of the day but it's gone now. Been sprinkling off & on & now a steady light rain. Hope it doesn't get heavier because the tent is leaking/I'm getting spatter through at the heavier drops. I wonder if it's because I pitched it a little low and have been touching the inside ceiling a lot getting us situated. Gotta figure out how to pitch for more headroom.

Pack weight coming out of Neels Gap with water, fuel and four days ample food was 26 lbs! Gracie's pack weight with four days food was 5lbs. She's pooped again tonight. She shivers a lot in the evening. It's supposed to rain all day tomorrow. Don't know far I'll get. Next shelter is 7.2 miles - short, but skipping to the next means 15 miles or camping at a campsite without bear cables or shelter. I like tenting, but appreciate the shelter for cooking and socializing. Just hope my sleeping bag stays dry tonight. Draped my rain jacket over it where the leaking seems worst. This jacket, that I almost forgot in Austin, has been indispensable so far. A great campsite shell for when night is coming on. Typically, when I get to camp, I change into my wool baselayer and (egad) shorts, then don the fleece and/or rain shell as necessary.

Gonna read for a bit instead of stressing about the weather. It'll rain tomorrow, then it's supposed to be clear for at least a week. Things will dry eventually. We'll find a way to manage. I can hear a beautiful songbird from the tent and it makes me smile. I figure 5 more days to Franklin, NC and laundry/bed/shower/internets.

Highlights: setting the picnic table on fire at dinner, hearing the wind roar through the gap during the overnight rainstorm, surviving a wet night under the tarp, hearing hoot owls at dusk and songbirds signaling the end of the rain, being eye to eye with a salamander seeking refuge from the rain under my tarp, Privy 101 from the ridgerunner.
Food:
B - millet, quinoa, & corn, cooked on the cabin stove + strong green ginger tea, half a 20 oz. Mr. Pibb (I needed the empty soda bottle to hold my olive oil, the Wheatsville bottle I started with has a messy pour and the cap doesn't close securely)
L - cookies & cream Clif Builder Bar smeared with peanut butter, Emily's banana chip trail mix
D - pasta, pesto, sundried tomatoes, olives & tuna (Excellent! tuna pouches never tasted so good) plus hot cocoa, a few bites of trail mix while dinner cooked, and 2 squares of a dark chocolate/raspberry Chocolove bar for dessert

18 April 2010

Adventures on the Appalachian Trail (4/18/09)

[A year ago April 15th, I set out to hike the length of the Appalachian Trail, northbound from Georgia to Maine, with my 7 year old dog, Gracie. Almost nightly, I wrote journal entries about what I was experiencing. The demands of trail life with a dog precluded me from posting these entries during the hike. I've chosen to post excerpts to mark the anniversary of this life-altering experience. Enjoy the journey, I certainly did.]

18 April 2009 - Day 4, Mile 30.7 - Woods Hole Shelter -> Neels Gap/Goose Creek Campground
Bear came through camp last night about 4:30am. One had stolen food from the cables a previous night, so we made sure to hang ours out of reach, but he tested the cables, then moved on. Gracie slept right through the excitement. On Blood Mountain for rest & breakfast - if I can stand the flies - before heading to Neels Gap for resupply/short day. Ran in to the couple from yesterday (the woman Gracie nipped, and her husband) the bear got their food. The flies drove me off Blood Mountain. Hiking up Blood Mountain alone, early this morning was beautiful and eerie. Site of a legendary Creek/Cherokee battle that caused the mountain to turn red with blood. That kind of history will give you pause. Felt a lot of spirit energy. Stopped a couple of times just to take in the quiet and figure out if there was anything moving in the bushes.

Decided to overnight at Neels Gap to rest the blister instead of pushing on 11 miles. If the 6 miles past Neels Gap had been open for camping, I'd have walked on, but this is a nice respite. Goose Creek Cabins were built by the CCC in the 40s - one of the last remaining CCC recreation camps. My southern accent is coming out full force to meet the lazy Georgian drawl. I could live in a little one room cabin like that. What more does a person (this person) need?

Did sink laundry, showered, and cleaned the backpacking kitchen. Organized the food bag, mended some things (torn food bag liner, and Gracie's cracked food/water dish). Duct tape is a wonderful thing. I'm not hydrating enough!

Got my first taste of trail magic - a faith-based group grilled burgers at Walasi-Yi & visited with us. Nice bunch of folks. I ate two patties with cheese & fixin's. Called Mom & Dad & Emily. So glad to get to visit, and glad to be here. Excited to get my supply box - new varieties of food, cool peace quotes (from Laura) & a postcard from Katie. Will head out again tomorrow morning - ready to get back on the trail after a good night's sleep and a shower. Most of the guys I've been hiking with chose to stay around Neels Gap, and I caught up with the Texas Train. They trucked into Neels last night and one of their party is suffering for it. Hopefully they'll be back out tomorrow after a day of rest.

Loved hiking earlier today. Left out at 8am. Sometimes the only sounds were my footsteps (and Gracie's), the tick tick of the trekking poles on the trail, Gracie's cowbell, and our breathing. Maybe it was last night's bear sighting, but I felt like we could have come up on a bear were we a quieter pair. Saw several birds but it was hard to get a good picture. Ran into Ben (not yet Shitty Pot) slackpacking Blood Mountain today. What's a breviary? (Among Thomas Merton's personal effects)

Highlights: Shower! Trail Magic! Free shuttle to/from campground; resupply (Christmas in a box!) First bear and the hilarity that ensued as we laughed off the stress/anxiety after the bear moved on. It was like a mini episode of the Daily Show. About bears, and Gracie's complete and utter lack of interest.
Food:
B - trail mix
L - trail magic burgers
D - red lentils & rice
Retrospective: That was the last time I would see Ben. He kept hiking a long time, but was always behind me. He eventually got off the trail, but I heard about him from other hikers (mainly through Gordon Bombay). Last two nights were with the same crew of guys - Pittsburgh, Geoff, Steve, (not yet) Nordic, Hill William, and Michael. Jenny had given me a book, whose title escapes me at the moment, that was a collection of packing lists for a variety of travelers, including Grandma Gatewood, three-time AT thru-hiker. Thomas Merton was my list for the night, and I didn't know what a breviary was. According to wikipedia, it's a book of liturgical rites and prayers. The book was great "light reading" for the trail. Thanks, Jenny!

Adventures on the Appalachian Trail (4/17/09)

[A year ago April 15th, I set out to hike the length of the Appalachian Trail, northbound from Georgia to Maine, with my 7 year old dog, Gracie. Almost nightly, I wrote journal entries about what I was experiencing. The demands of trail life with a dog precluded me from posting these entries during the hike. I've chosen to post excerpts to mark the anniversary of this life-altering experience. Enjoy the journey, I certainly did.]

17 April 2009 - Day 3 - Gooch Mtn Shelter -> Woods Hole Shelter
Tomorrow, Neels Gap & camping at Goose Creek Campground - shower! Resupply!
I like Shortcut's style - pack up & get moving, then stop for breakfast. Will try it tomorrow so Gracie stays warm. About 2 miles to Slaughter Creek (Campsite), more water, good place for breakfast. Tough day today. Physical Inventory: right heel blister, right foot bone soreness, tops of my feet, shins, and calves are sore, ligament behind right knee. Glutes, right neck sore.
At least I don't have all kinda chafing, like some people. Emotional Inventory: really good until Gracie nipped a lady headed to the spring at Woods Hole. I just need to warn people she's not friendly - she's working. So, that has put a damper on my evening.

Bear report at the shelter has moved me & Gracie into the shelter (I had initially pitched the tarp 50 yards from the bear cables, where the bear had made an appearance the night before). Could really use cell service so I could check my messages. Lots of time today thinking about my friends, Allah, 3rd & 7th step prayers, an ex, but I focused on stepping carefully to not cause more or worsen existing blisters.

Highlights: Hawk crossed our path today

Food:
B - Oats
L - Trail mix & gluten-free pretzels
D - refried beans & polenta, chocolate!

Retrospective: I'd had a foot issue earlier in the year from wearing boots with insufficient cushioning/support and my trail runners were starting to give me the same symptoms

16 April 2010

Adventures on the Appalachian Trail (4/16/09)

[Exactly a year ago, I set out to hike the length of the Appalachian Trail, northbound from Georgia to Maine, with my 7 year old dog, Gracie. Almost nightly, I wrote journal entries about what I was experiencing. The demands of trail life with a dog precluded me from posting these entries during the hike. I've chosen to post excerpts to mark the anniversary of this life-altering experience. Enjoy the journey, I certainly did.]

16 April 2009 - Day 2 - Stover Creek Shelter -> Gooch Mtn Shelter
AM stretching did not happen. Lights out at 7:30pm, as soon as the sun went below the trees. Stayed in bed until 7ish, last to leave the shelter at 9:30am. Still made my goal for the day. George (Springer Mtn ridgerunner) & shortcut stopped at Stover Creek as I was packing up. George is 77, has been living on the mountain for two months, and plans to hike the Colorado Long Trail when his ridgerunner tour is up. Awesome.

More signs of spring at lower elevations today; got some photos of budding plants that look primordial. Anyone worried about me losing weight on this trip can stop now. The meals are huge! Met lots of other hikers today. Probably 10-15 of us at the shelter. I pitched the tarp pretty well. First night in the tarp on the trail. Shelter sleepers Snore!

Visited with Crawl at Hawk Mtn. shelter at lunch. He's having a zero day while he waits for his knees to recover. Former truck driver hoping to lose 70# over the course of his thru. We talked about food! I feel pretty good about my nutrition plan. Met some fellow Texas boys including Matthew from Austin, who knows Carson and had seen one of my supply boxes. Small world. I leapfrogged three of the guys from last night's shelter, and no sign of the Rifleman. Gracie seems more tired today. Got up in the 70s today - perfect hiking weather. Got to camp, pitched the tarp & cleaned up a bit and feel better. Possible blister developing on my inside right heel.

Highlights: Long Creek Falls, tenting out, budding plants

Food: B - gluten-free hot cereal with nutritional yeast & dehydrated corn
L/snacks - instant hummus with sundried tomatoes & olive oil, trail mix, Clif Builder Bar smeared with peanut butter
D - red rice noodles with greens, cabbage, carrots, TVP, & vegetarian bouillion (thanks, Ken!)

15 April 2010

Adventures on the Appalachian Trail (4/15/09)

[Exactly a year ago, I set out to hike the length of the Appalachian Trail, northbound from Georgia to Maine, with my 7 year old dog, Gracie. Almost nightly, I wrote journal entries about what I was experiencing. The demands of trail life with a dog precluded me from posting these entries during the hike. I've chosen to post excerpts to mark the anniversary of this life-altering experience. Enjoy the journey, I certainly did.]

15 April 2009 - Day 1 - Stover Creek Shelter
Summitted Springer Mountain this afternoon & went 2.8 miles on the official AT. Wow. It is still sinking in that I am really doing this. Shelter full of guys tonight. A strange guy showed up at the shelter last night at midnight. With Gracie, I wasn't too concerned, but everyone who's run into him on the trail today had a strange feeling about him. Dressed in denim & workboots, carrying a rifle, machete, and an army knife. Gracie put the scare into him and I truly believe he is harmless - James from Ohio - but I'm glad he didn't make it far. Shared some of my breakfast with him as an act of goodwill & I had the sense he didn't have any food, which my fellow hikers confirmed. Hope he got to town - safety & warmth. This world is hard for some people. Trying the shelter again tonight & putting my feet up. My lower legs can definitely tell they had a workout.

So far, one day in, I'm glad to have little company. There are five of us here at Stover. Two guys from Georgia (a thru-hiker and his buddy who's going as far as Neels Gap) Matt from Maine (Transition), who I leap-frogged several times on the trail & another kid whose name I don't know (Ben - Shitty Pot) from Arkansas. Gracie has been cranky & mean today - almost bit one of the Georgia guys. I like that she's being protective.

Started at 9:20am - later than I wanted, but turned out fine. The (Approach) trail was not as difficult as Bryson (Bill Bryson, author of "A Walk in the Woods") had led me to believe, but I forget that I'm an athlete. 11.6 miles the first day is good. Will try to spend the night in the shelter. Mild concern about rodents, but hopeful that Gracie will keep them at bay. If she freaks, I'll have to pitch the tent in the dark. I can do it but don't want to. We'll see what happens. Hard to sleep last night with the Rifleman (James) waking us up at midnight & the cold & unfamiliar noises. The wind in the trees such a foreign sound that I expect I'll come to welcome.

Checked in at the visitor center this morning & Loretta took our picture after Gracie got mouthy with her. I think Gracie was/is feeding off my nervousness. George the ridgerunner atop Springer said we were the 6th thru-hikers today and 700-something since Feb. 28th. My left foot was numb when we started this morning, so cold it was. Got into the 40s at the shelter last night (at the base of the Approach Trail) and will surely hit the 30s tonight. George said it was 34 on Springer last night. Glad Stover Creek is a little lower in elevation, hoping for warmer temps. I'll be happy if my water doesn't freeze. Speaking of weather, it's clear and sunny and should stay that way until Sat. or Sun. when rain may be back. Gracie snoogled really close a couple of times last night but we both slept pretty fitfully. I hope she worked hard enough today that she'll sleep through the night.

Bufflaclava is sure warm. Only 7:15 and I am sure ready for bed. It's the warmest place to be. Need to stretch a little, though. Body scan: So far so good on the feet - use foot powder in the am; hips will surely be sore tomorrow and lower legs are achy tonight. I've taken ibuprofen and will stretch before bed. Did not drink enough while hiking and had a mild headache when I got to the shelter, but I'm ok now. Don't like having to pee in the middle of the night. Backpack: felt some strain in my left upper back - perhaps misaligned straps/belt or unbalanced load. Will be more aware of how pack fits in AM. Stretching felt good, will try to do some in the am.

Retrospective: My friends Nett & Jenn had given me a Buff as a trail present. An unofficial goal was to see how many ways I could find to wear it. During cold nights, the "balaclava" variation, dubbed the Bufflaclava, kept my head pretty warm. Thankfully, "the Rifleman" was one of less than a handful of characters I would encounter along the trail that gave me pause. One thing that did give me pause was Gracie's temperament. She continued to be cranky & mean with people much more than a hiker dog should, and more than once I considered getting off the trail or getting her off the trail, but I simply wasn't willing to go that far. Instead I tried to find ways to make the experience work for her, and by the end, she was making friends with just about everyone.